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Old 08-16-2002, 02:56 PM   #1186
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Thanks OB42TC3 for the tip, Ill try it out this weekend. Im new to the hobby, this is my first car/first season. Ive built 3 NTC3s now since last Christmas. Heres what Ive found:

-use the RPM bumper, works great

-use longer screws and CA to keep them in place on the front trany case, no more problems

-plug the pressure port on the tank, drill the lid 1/8, add a GS 45deg. Nipple, keep
the o-rings from flattening out when you tighten the tank down, have never had any problems with it, engine runs great, drains bone dry everytime, less than 6 line both sides

-running a Mugen MT-12 completely stock, Powerline cooling head ( best out there, honest), K&N filter, #8 plug, 30% ODonnell, manifold is cut 3/8 and ported, using dual chamber pipe, can get 52-53mph on our back straight with 54/48-20/26 gearing

-3 shoe clutch, l/w bell housing, heavy springs, 2 holes each shoe, 3/32 inner-1/8 outer,
clean the shoes and bell housing every weekend, this set-up rips!

-the Yokomo one-way is the way to go up front, with a diff out back
I tried the solid axle, too squirrelly for me

-the Associated ti-pillow balls arent any good, use the Titanium Racing stuff from SpeedTech RC, I have the pillow balls, pins, and input shafts, theyre awesome,
Also add 5/40 set screws to your arms to keep the pillow balls where theyre supposed to be

-Im using the heavy servo spring up front, with stock ball cups and o-rings, no slop period, I also use the o-rings out back with the stock RPM cups, bearings in the steering and braking

-Ill admit Im an eye candy freak and Im not shy about spending, my race car has every factory team option, and my show car has everything Golden Horizon and GPM have to offer. Ive tried parts from Hardcore, IRS, Kawahara, you name it. I know Im new but I research alot, and I am meticulous about my work. If I can offer anyone any help, or just an honest straight-forward opinion, Id be glad to. To sum it up, I think with a little work we all have an awesome car, no complaints.
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Old 08-16-2002, 10:16 PM   #1187
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My experience in three months of owning the car..........

Fast but always on the edge. Not confidence inspiring.(Note: Tight track)

I'm scared to drive the car hard in fear of stripping the ring/pinion(among other things) and burning the diff.

Rock/pebble proof? NOT!! Occasional rock in Pinion/spur stops the car in it's tracks.

Two long screws in the shock tower helps prevent loosening.

Chassis tweaks easily in minor crashes.

If your chassis is tweaked, buy the GH one. Stiffer torsionally but the same front to back. It's stiffer in front of the engine area., pull start hole is not as big as stock. Light.

No tank problems yet but i'm working on a vibration proof mod.

Clutch shoes glazes easily. Now i'm running the three shoe setup with stock springs and lightened shoes.

Use the Lunsford titanium top shock mount for quick shock angle changes.

I locked the steering rack servo saver and i'm using a Kimbrough med servo saver(trimmed to clear radio tray)

That's all I can think of right now.
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Old 08-17-2002, 07:44 AM   #1188
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NTC3NUT

What do you mean by ported? when you say that you pipe is cut 3/8inch and ported?

Thanks

Mike Webb
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Old 08-17-2002, 08:15 AM   #1189
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i too had problems with run time when i orginally got my ntc3 but never running too hot.i changed the tank by putting a pressure nipple on the cap, that helped run time a lot(2 more min) but the motor ran hotter at 290 degrees. so i went back to the stock setup tank and ran 10" of pressure line just like it says in the book and not have had any problems since no matter what motor i use. right now i am using the pixie motor by rossi. i get 5.5 min run time and motor is running about 250 degrees.
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Old 08-17-2002, 11:47 AM   #1190
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there are some issues with this car but i don't see any other
car touching the speed on this car. I also agree that having
the right ammount of pressure line makes a big difference with
some of the tuning issues.
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Old 08-17-2002, 02:15 PM   #1191
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Default Factory Team NTC3?

Any rumors that it will ever come out? Hopefully by Christmas.
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Old 08-17-2002, 04:54 PM   #1192
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Mike, The 3/8" is cut off the end of the manifold that's inserted into the pipe. I have one cut down 1/2" I'm going to try this weekend. By ported I mean I completely remove the "stop" inside the manifold on the engine side. It's ground down, then polished so that you have a smooth transition from exhaust port to pipe. I've done this for a few of the guys I club race with and we've all had good results. We had a few Pros in town a couple weeks ago their sedans were running 55 on our back straight. Some of the fastest I've seen run on our track. Myself and another club racer have run 52-53mph with stock MT-12's with nothing more than these mod's. I'll try to post a picture of a modified manifold next to a stock one. On another subject, I think I've seen it posted on this thread, what size head shim do you use when putting a std. plug button on a turbo motor? Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2002, 02:09 PM   #1193
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I was installing RB X12 SG rear exhaust on NTC3.
I'm having problem with clutch nut that came with the kit.

Does anybody know what I should do to install this engine?
Do I need to buy an opitonal nut or something else?

Thank you in advance.

Last edited by rcruv; 08-18-2002 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 08-18-2002, 02:29 PM   #1194
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The kits nut and collet should work perfect. It's the only engine I run on my NTC3... Make sure you shim it properly.
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Old 08-18-2002, 04:07 PM   #1195
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RCRUV... I just installed a RB 12X five port in my NTC3 and I also had no problem using the kit collet and nut... what exactly is the problem you are having?
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Old 08-18-2002, 04:40 PM   #1196
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Some observations of the NTC3 from the recent state championships (last weekend) here in Oz.

Firstly the track is about 200 foot long straight with a 40 foot sweeper off the end. Long, wide and sweeping track with HUGE traction. Foams had to be under 58mm or you would traction roll.

The NTC3s present were visibly the quickest cars in a straight line, especially on the last 1/4 of the straight. The speed difference was not enourmous but visible. They accelerated crisply, but I could not detect much difference between them and the other cars present. Handling was on a par with other cars. I also saw one retire with the rear toe linkage causing a problem.

I saw a few flame out on the pit exit after fuel stops, dunno why. Alot of people were using the dual chamber pipe and cutting down the manifold length about 10mm. Most people were using JP RS12 type engines on them.

A TC3 qualified 7th overall but failed in the semi-final to qualify for the A Main since he retired with a rear toe-linkage failure. None of the top 10 cars ended up being a TC3.

Overall I was impressed with the speed of the cars and they seemed to handle as well as any of the other cars out there!
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Old 08-18-2002, 05:18 PM   #1197
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I am also using the RBx12 turbo 5 port and have been using on 30 % nitro in the ntc3 for about 8months now and I had know trouble with the nut supplied in the kit. I had to add 2 shims for the correct depth into the spurgears though. The 5 port is a very strong engine , to me the NTC3 is overpowered with this engine but I mainly race short tracks and 2/3rd throttle is all the throttle I need. The guys running the bigger hp engines like the Motorman powerplants [Richey RTU and RTO ] would have a hard time putting the hp to the pavement I would think.
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Old 08-18-2002, 06:55 PM   #1198
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ChristopherKee, ottoman, bbntc3 > Thanks for the tips guys.
I had problem putting the kit clutch nut tight enough to hold the flywheel.
I wasn't sure if it's the right thread or not so I went to LHS and the guy there just used more force. It works perfect now.
Yes, I think I need to put a couple of shims to make the gears align better, even though they don't cause much problem right now.

What kind of shims did you use? Do you have the part number?

Thank you guys. Now I'm officialy a happy owner of NTC3.
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Old 08-18-2002, 08:17 PM   #1199
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I don't know the part # for the shims but the shims come with the RC10GT collett. Your localLHS should have the Ae collet kit it comes with another collet a 2 washers or spacers, I ran the car for months be fore I added the shims for the depth, the stock length will work ok.
Enjoy the car its the fasted and best cornering car i ever worked with once you figure out what the car wants and needs. The car ranks right up there with the best of them!!!!!
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Old 08-19-2002, 01:33 PM   #1200
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If anyone is interested i have a brand new in package Factory Team Ntc3 Dual Chamber Rear Exhaust Pipe POLISHED SILVER FOR SALE Asking 45shipped

email [email protected]
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