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Old 08-15-2002, 06:40 PM   #1171
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Quote:
Originally posted by proudwinner


I would repost my front shock tower fix pics but I had to format my hard drive and forgot to keep all my pics. I used 2 Du-Bro 1-1/4" 4/40 screws with the TC3 spindle bushings and yet have had a problem.
Agreed, also use cap screws on the brace and the tower will sit on them so you can tighten them more.
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Old 08-15-2002, 08:13 PM   #1172
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Benny, I got to hand it to ya you got stickin power. I capitulated and parked the NTC3 for a while.

I ran 5 tooth spread on pinions and 4 on spurs at the nats.

I killed a one way, so did a bunch of others, Ae was givin handfulls of center sections away as they have discontinued it. They all ran yokomo one ways.

Fuel issues were abundant, either caused by chassis vibration induced foaming or fuel mileage issues running the stock pressure setup. And we know it wasnt tuning and fuel issues as alot of engines were swapped around in cars and the problems stayed with the car most of the time. It was not always the case but quite common. Barry ran the stock fuel tank setup because he was told to as I understand it. all the rest of team AE ran a tank with a top pressure fitting to get mileage.

I believe the reason you have not seen this new mystery tank is that they know it wont fix the total problem. They know that chassis induced vibration is causing fuel foaming to. I heard barrys car had the new tank in it at a recent race with the rear screw taken out and the back sitting on some velcro or foam to help with the vibe issue. Its not being caused by pipe pressure. If you don't believe me take the pressure line out of the tuned pipe and rev the engine and watch the fuel in the tank.

Pivot ball caps R lower got a few guys

Hot engines on RE equipped cars were common.
The ae guys were running their engines 290 to get power out of them. (they must have brought a crate full of motors) If it stalls at that temp you'll be lucky to get it started again.

Ring and pinion issues.

diff cases werent really an issue if you werent hitting things

Torque steer, but you just get used to it.
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Old 08-15-2002, 08:55 PM   #1173
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I think with the weather; the engines had to run at 290 or so to get a-main speed. I know team Fort Wayne was running about 275 on 20%. It's such a big track you need the speed or you won't get it. I too am moving to the Mugen tank, after I noticed some fuel seaping through the seam. I may 'weld' the hole shut in the chassis or talk to the vibes experts and figure something clever out. Last but not least I think you have too much power sometimes for your own good. You tear up tires and gears when nobody else is. I think you need to dial in some expo on the throttle, or get a sail winch servo to pull the carb open. I'll stick with it until it's right(I haven't had bad luck so far). Remember how much Terry picked up by dropping the Mugen at MWS #1? BTW Brad found the problem on his Omega(leaky back plate) and it's been running like a champ. I sold my AE one-way to Womack for what it's worth($25), and happily paid the $60 for the yoke 1-way.

Last edited by OB42TC3; 08-15-2002 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 08-15-2002, 09:26 PM   #1174
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glitch44: i will be there tomorrow also. i don't have the 27 right now. but soon..i'll see you there....



bbntc3: i am not sure about the K-factory unit. the main reason that the Kawa unit use a different 2nd pinion is because they want to lowet the cost, because they also make centax for V1R, MTX-2 and GT4. and i believe they all have the same clutch bell. they didnt want to make another one just for the NTC3... plus they can make more money by selling their own pinions........
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Old 08-15-2002, 10:44 PM   #1175
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To much power for my own good.
Ya know you may be onto something there
naw couldn't be
(its a denial thing, a personal curse) LOL

Yes the weather was causing serious tuning issues, talk about radical pressure swings. they should have mounted a malox dispenser behind the driver stand.
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Old 08-15-2002, 10:56 PM   #1176
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Just stick with your side exhaust RTU and you will be fine. Stick with that and concentrate on turning consistent laps intead of getting that perfect rock solid tune on the engine and pay mre attention to the suspension setup and ..tires.
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Old 08-16-2002, 05:50 AM   #1177
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Default My new NTC3!

Here is a picture of my NTC3 and my own tank modification idea... i have some further info from some friend that i am going to try further and will let you know how it goes
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Old 08-16-2002, 05:52 AM   #1178
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And another!
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Last edited by hooked_on; 08-16-2002 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 08-16-2002, 05:53 AM   #1179
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The Out of this World Body!
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Old 08-16-2002, 06:04 AM   #1180
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Benny, I got to hand it to ya you got stickin power. I capitulated and parked the NTC3 for a while.

I ran 5 tooth spread on pinions and 4 on spurs at the nats.

I killed a one way, so did a bunch of others, Ae was givin handfulls of center sections away as they have discontinued it. They all ran yokomo one ways.

Fuel issues were abundant, either caused by chassis vibration induced foaming or fuel mileage issues running the stock pressure setup. And we know it wasnt tuning and fuel issues as alot of engines were swapped around in cars and the problems stayed with the car most of the time. It was not always the case but quite common. Barry ran the stock fuel tank setup because he was told to as I understand it. all the rest of team AE ran a tank with a top pressure fitting to get mileage.

I believe the reason you have not seen this new mystery tank is that they know it wont fix the total problem. They know that chassis induced vibration is causing fuel foaming to. I heard barrys car had the new tank in it at a recent race with the rear screw taken out and the back sitting on some velcro or foam to help with the vibe issue. Its not being caused by pipe pressure. If you don't believe me take the pressure line out of the tuned pipe and rev the engine and watch the fuel in the tank.

Pivot ball caps R lower got a few guys

Hot engines on RE equipped cars were common.
The ae guys were running their engines 290 to get power out of them. (they must have brought a crate full of motors) If it stalls at that temp you'll be lucky to get it started again.

Ring and pinion issues.

diff cases werent really an issue if you werent hitting things

Torque steer, but you just get used to it.
Dennis,

I was dissapointed to hear the you had parked the car so suddenly after being of so high praise when you first got the car. I was looking forward to seeing a heap of Richey Performance hop up parts becoming availbe for the NTC3? Whats the go and have you finished with it for good?

Thanks,

H-O
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Old 08-16-2002, 06:07 AM   #1181
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Another shot of that body?
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Old 08-16-2002, 07:19 AM   #1182
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Default one way gears

When you "shim-up" your pinion gear, are you putting all 3 shims on the pinion side? I have went through a few one-way gears but I assumed it was from the shaft drive and "sudden impacts" or trying to get off a wall and grinding it to pieces. No belt to skip and save it I guessed. I had a Associated one-way and it only lasted 2 weekends. They replaced it of course but it's still in the bag. I switched to the Yokomo and couldn't be happier. I have had to use my reemer to get the Associated gears on the Yokomo one-way though. Anyway, I would like to try shimming if anyone could provide a few pointers. Thanks.

P.S. Anyone want a few Associated one-ways cheep?
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Old 08-16-2002, 09:44 AM   #1183
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Default Brainstorming

Guys, I think we should try to summarize what it takes from everybodies experience to get the car running consistantly.

I have been racing R/C cars on a pretty high level since 1985 and actually never had as much trouble to get a car right than I have now with the NTC3.

Here is what I did so far:

1.) I replaced the tank with a Mugen piece, since my tank was missing the stone filter on the pick up side, so it only was able to supply half of the 75 cc. The other reason was the well known shaking of the original tank. With the Mugen tank my fuel supply to the engine seems to be fine.

2.) After having tons of trouble ith the clutch I finally got the Kawahara centax which seems to work pretty good so far.
I tried the AE 2 shoe and 3 shou clutches with the regular andthe copper springs, with regular and lightened shoes. The clutch would always run good for about two minutes and then the springs started to loose tension and started to bog the car down and overheat the engine.

3.) I cut my header (rear exh.) as much as possible to get the engine on the pipe sooner.


Now this is the current status of my car, I havn't broken any parts yet (because I don't get to race it). So far I haven't gotten it to a point where I'dbe able to finish a qualifier. For the last 5 weeks I always started out with he TC3 and ended up running the mains with my MTX2.

I still have engine overheating problems. This engine came out of my Mugen (stock MT12) where it ran great. I tried to richen it up to keep it cool to no extend so far.

I'm close to give up on the car, despite the fact that it probably handles better than my Mugen.


Why don't we throw all the gathered knowledge together here?

Thx,

Stefan
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Old 08-16-2002, 09:58 AM   #1184
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My wife's half brother (7 years old) has run this car in a parking lot with a MT12 Stock engine and it was overheating a little. I was 3 1/2 turns out on the low end and 4 1/4 out on the top end (about 85-90 out that day). It had a hole in the front window and rear window.

I ran the car this past weekend at my track. I had the 3 shoe clutch in it with copper springs. I cut the side windows out on both sides (front only) and I cut about a inch and a half thick rectangle out of the rear window all the way across the top. I was coming off the track at 230 degrees. For the main I was 3 out on low end and 4 out on top end. Side Flush. I came off the track at the end of the main at 255 degrees (105 with heat index). The car was fast and consistant. Friend let me borrow the Dual Chamber Pipe and I could not tell the difference it made in tuning or on the track. I have the Serpent Tank in the car mounted as far forward as possible. I cut 5mm off the rear exh. header.

I was able to turn faster times then I could with my Impulse but the car to me seemed too on the edge comapred to my Impulse. To me the car seemed slower but it turns out I am faster. My cousin has my serpent now so I will be running this car the rest of the season so I will see how it will do. I was running 30% Sidewinder Fuel.
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Old 08-16-2002, 11:11 AM   #1185
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Default Re: one way gears

Quote:
Originally posted by NTC3NUT
When you "shim-up" your pinion gear, are you putting all 3 shims on the pinion side? I have went through a few one-way gears but I assumed it was from the shaft drive and "sudden impacts" or trying to get off a wall and grinding it to pieces. No belt to skip and save it I guessed. I had a Associated one-way and it only lasted 2 weekends. They replaced it of course but it's still in the bag. I switched to the Yokomo and couldn't be happier. I have had to use my reemer to get the Associated gears on the Yokomo one-way though. Anyway, I would like to try shimming if anyone could provide a few pointers. Thanks.

P.S. Anyone want a few Associated one-ways cheep?
Yes all three to the one side. It will feel rough until after you run it once or twice. It noticeably increase gear engagement. I have not wasted a gear with it this way.
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