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Old 08-14-2002, 11:08 AM   #1156
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RC INfo: If you buy the nonpull kit all the parts you need come in the kit, no hidden extra parts need to be bought like the reflux, which does not come with the sg crank nut.
For the toe in problems I use the rpm long ends drilled to fit turnbucklesand the toe prob, have all but gone away, if anybody has a captured ball end deal for the rear, post it, I would like to go that route I think. solid rear links would be ok I guess and 2 degrees does seem to be the ticket, I think it would be hard on the arms though, captured probably just as hard but atleast like someone stated you could at least adjust for molding errors.

Coolrcdad: Are you sure your turning the right screws on the 2sp. Thats to many turns I think your turning the wrong screws maybe, I have seen that alot here.

Last edited by bbntc3; 08-14-2002 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 08-14-2002, 12:08 PM   #1157
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bbntc3, Captured ball ends sounds good, but again, if you keep them from popping off, then maybe you break an arm or pull the screw out with the ball end. Either way race over. Also-our design is not molded, they are solid when built, but are adjustable too!!! They just happen to come preset to 2 degrees!!!

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Old 08-14-2002, 12:16 PM   #1158
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Quote:
Coolrcdad: Are you sure your turning the right screws on the 2sp. Thats to many turns I think your turning the wrong screws maybe, I have seen that alot here.
Like bbntc3 say-maybe the wrong screws!! If you are loosening the Silver colored set screws in the middle of the shoe, then you are definately adjsuting the wrong screws!!! You need to be adjusting the two black screws that are on the ends of the shoes.
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Old 08-14-2002, 12:35 PM   #1159
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Thats cool Ray! Let me know when they will be for selll I 'll take a set add me too the list! Thanks
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Old 08-14-2002, 12:41 PM   #1160
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Hey Ray I forgot to ask, are you guys working on the steering end? Theres alot of room for improvement there! Thats about the only other weak link in the car I think! I also think it would be cool if someone came up with a pivotball with a thin locknut design. It would stop the same prob. with the pivot balls being drove in to the arms, or the pivotballs backing in and out. The a-arms would just have to be trimmed alittle to compensate for the locknut. I know that would be harder on the shocktowers and the hiingepins but worth the risk!

Last edited by bbntc3; 08-14-2002 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 08-14-2002, 12:55 PM   #1161
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does anyone have a fix for the shock tower coming loose on the ntc3? i have tried a 3mm screw in the middle of the shock tower but it simply wont stay tight very long.any tips would help, thanks.
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Old 08-14-2002, 01:01 PM   #1162
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Read through the back post bigbob there a couple tower fixes in here. I use studs and lock nuts on 4 points on the towers and no more shocktower troubles.
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Old 08-15-2002, 03:13 AM   #1163
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
RC INfo: If you buy the nonpull kit all the parts you need come in the kit, no hidden extra parts need to be bought like the reflux, which does not come with the sg crank nut.
For the toe in problems I use the rpm long ends drilled to fit turnbucklesand the toe prob, have all but gone away, if anybody has a captured ball end deal for the rear, post it, I would like to go that route I think. solid rear links would be ok I guess and 2 degrees does seem to be the ticket, I think it would be hard on the arms though, captured probably just as hard but atleast like someone stated you could at least adjust for molding errors.

Coolrcdad: Are you sure your turning the right screws on the 2sp. Thats to many turns I think your turning the wrong screws maybe, I have seen that alot here.
thanx mate!!
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Old 08-15-2002, 05:47 AM   #1164
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Does anybody know what happened to all the NTC3's at the Nationals in the US last month as i would like to address this issue with my car? And not a general answer "they all failed cause AE are shit!", that i am not after i would like some in depth input please.

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Old 08-15-2002, 11:56 AM   #1165
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[ FUELTANK ] was AE's troubles at the nat. At least thats what Baker bitched about all weekend. Just adapt a serpent or mugen fuel tank and the fuel troubles are gone! BB
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Old 08-15-2002, 05:41 PM   #1166
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That and the gearboxes stripping. I shim the pinion in the additional shim, and I don't run the 6 tooth drop. Also use the yokomo 1-way. I also use a little white ligthning or other grease on the gears. The gear problems have been isolated to cincy only for me.
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Old 08-15-2002, 05:54 PM   #1167
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MeStudent,

How's it going ? I met you last Sat at Crystal. Are you still bringing some clutches with you and do you have any 27 teeth pinions for the K clutch? I'll be at Crystal on Fri afternoon/night . I wont be able to come down on Sat. Let me know. I still want a clutch. Hopefully, I'll see you on Fri.

Dave
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Old 08-15-2002, 06:22 PM   #1168
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OB4: 6 tooth drop? Explain, Are you talking about 6 tooth drop in first and second gear spurs? Thats right Dennis Richey also stripped a pinion gear at the nats. I think Dennis is working on brass pinions for the car in the near future. BB

MEStudent: So I guess it's safe to say the K Factory clutch system will also have to use their second gear instead of the Stock Ae gears?

Last edited by bbntc3; 08-15-2002 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 08-15-2002, 06:36 PM   #1169
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Quote:
Originally posted by bigbob
does anyone have a fix for the shock tower coming loose on the ntc3? i have tried a 3mm screw in the middle of the shock tower but it simply wont stay tight very long.any tips would help, thanks.
I would repost my front shock tower fix pics but I had to format my hard drive and forgot to keep all my pics. I used 2 Du-Bro 1-1/4" 4/40 screws with the TC3 spindle bushings and yet have had a problem.
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Old 08-15-2002, 06:38 PM   #1170
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Lots of guys fried the gears. I think its mostly fixed by shimming, and everyone in the top mains was running the 6 tooth drop if not everyone in all the mains. It seemed as though there was a good correlation between 6 tooth drop and frying gears. Even at the MWS series race there when it was much cooler. That's actually the reason I will end up with a Centax, for cincy so I can up the engagement point to where I can get away with a 24 tooth first gear.
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