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Old 08-02-2002, 11:54 AM   #1066
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Default You to love birds,

better take this crap to a some more private way of communication (e-mail, PM, a date?)

and keep this board nice and clean.
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Old 08-02-2002, 11:57 AM   #1067
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What happened to free speech. It was entertaining to watch people flex their cyber-muscles!
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Old 08-02-2002, 12:16 PM   #1068
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Sorry. Just got carried away.
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Old 08-02-2002, 04:01 PM   #1069
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Free speech in this country?

You gotta be kiddin', right?
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Old 08-03-2002, 08:02 PM   #1070
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Hey guys, about how often should you replace your clutch springs in the NTC3? Right now I'm running the stock softer springs and 2 shoes. My engine is an OS .12CVR. I've put about 15 tanks of Byron's 20/12 nitro through it so far. All help will be greatly appreciated-thanks.
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Old 08-04-2002, 04:45 AM   #1071
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Default Pullstart Version Tc3 Nitro?

People,

I have a question regarding the differences between the pullstart and non- pullstart version of the Nitro Tc3? That is that if i run a side exhaust engine on the pullstart version am i still able to start the engine with a starter box or is the engine sitting higher then the non pullstart version? I would have thought that the engine mounts and the flywheel would have been the same apart from the header and the tune pipe?

Look forward to hearing from you all shortly!

Also, am i going to be sorry changing from a V1R to a Tc3 Nitro?
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Old 08-04-2002, 05:24 AM   #1072
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Default proudwinner

I'm waiting for my Centax to arrive.

Had no luck with either 2 shoe or 3 shoe, both started bogging after 2 minutes on the track.
The spring design seems to weak for the hotter engines.
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Old 08-04-2002, 06:06 PM   #1073
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Proudwinner: We've ran over 2 gallon of 30% Sidewinder fuel threw a RBx12 Turbo 5 port and have had no clutch troubles. We use the stronger clutchsprings and light clutchbelll. The only real prob. with the clutch is the flywheel is not harden and the clutch shoes wear into the flywheel and cause the clutch to stick, you can file the flywheel down or sand it to remove the roughness. I don't agree with Stefan that the clutch is to weak for the bigger hp engines, allthough the centx will be the ticket in the clutch area. The RB puts out a ton of hp, but still a have had no real trouble with it.


Hooked on: The non pull mts for the engine is alittleshorter in height but you still should be able to start with a starterbox. I can't say about the v1r other than the hopups and the AE parts for the NTC3 is cheaper and easier to get. No one here races the v1r but there use to be a bunch of mugen cars, and they have all switched to the NTC3. The up keep and maintance is also a + with the NTC3.

Stefan: sounds like you have trouble in some other area besides the clutch. Maybe out of tune or something binding up! mine has many hrs of racing on it with both 2 and 3 shoe clutchs with no problems.
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Old 08-04-2002, 08:32 PM   #1074
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Thanks bbntc3 and stefen, that's the answer I wanted to hear bbntc3-someguy on trinty tech talk is saying you need to replace them every 3 to 4 races I think they can last a little bit longer than that. Thank you for the replies.
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Old 08-04-2002, 09:14 PM   #1075
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Just clean the clutch shoes or maybe lightly sand the blacken edges of the shoes after 3 to 5 races and you should be ok.
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Old 08-04-2002, 10:11 PM   #1076
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I just got home a few hours ago from racing today. I tried the Kawahara centax clutch on the NTC3 and didn't like it much. I noticed it had a lot of slip once it engaged. This might be do to the lightness of the flywheel weights and the limited shoe surface. Anyway, I'm probably going to go back to the stock three shoe set up that I've had good luck with.
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Old 08-04-2002, 11:10 PM   #1077
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Kawa centax clutch - I had the same slipping problem at first.
few things that I tried and work very well. see if these will help

Clear the bell, must, mine came in with lot of grease!

Tighten the clutch to engage later than the instruction recommend. I have about 0.9 to 1mm distance

I could learn the engine more ( very noticeable difference) than the standard 2 or 3 shoe without over heating the engine! My mechanics said because the clutch no longer slip, the engine don't need to rev as hard as before.

I tested about 6 tanks on the kawa clutch.

anybody else tried!
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Old 08-04-2002, 11:36 PM   #1078
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damn ! Supermugen I did'nt want to hear that!!! Mine should be hear next week!!!!
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Old 08-05-2002, 02:24 AM   #1079
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Proudwinner: We've ran over 2 gallon of 30% Sidewinder fuel threw a RBx12 Turbo 5 port and have had no clutch troubles. We use the stronger clutchsprings and light clutchbelll. The only real prob. with the clutch is the flywheel is not harden and the clutch shoes wear into the flywheel and cause the clutch to stick, you can file the flywheel down or sand it to remove the roughness. I don't agree with Stefan that the clutch is to weak for the bigger hp engines, allthough the centx will be the ticket in the clutch area. The RB puts out a ton of hp, but still a have had no real trouble with it.


Hooked on: The non pull mts for the engine is alittleshorter in height but you still should be able to start with a starterbox. I can't say about the v1r other than the hopups and the AE parts for the NTC3 is cheaper and easier to get. No one here races the v1r but there use to be a bunch of mugen cars, and they have all switched to the NTC3. The up keep and maintance is also a + with the NTC3.

Stefan: sounds like you have trouble in some other area besides the clutch. Maybe out of tune or something binding up! mine has many hrs of racing on it with both 2 and 3 shoe clutchs with no problems.
BBntc3:

Thanks for your response. So apart from the difference in the height of the engine mounts, the flywheel is the same? I guess i can just machine the mounts down to the same height as the non pullstart. I live in Australia, and getting Kyosho parts is very easy (that was my main reason for getting the v1r a year ago), assosicated parts have been hard to get up till now and will most likley still have to get parts from the state? I have heard storys from people in Australia that the Tc3 nitro is fragile and this is why people have not been keen to get them and also that they have limited camber change compared to either the Kyosho or the mugen and that the motor is on the wrong side? Once i heard that "Motorman" had one, i just had to follow suit , now i only have to get Amgracer to follow suit

Any thoughts or comments?
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Old 08-05-2002, 02:26 AM   #1080
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Default Centax?

Will either a mugen or a kyosho v-one rr centax clutch fit onto either of the tc3's?
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