Craig

TI might not have great thermal abilities but it does have some what of a memory.It would tweak like Alum.But it is expensive.Just curious why so thick?

Motorman

iTrader: (1)

Craig its only 4 MM underneath,(through the center) this allows me to taper the sides and then the outside rear of the car won't drag like they do with the stock chassis in a high speed sweeper. Its about 2.5 at the outside edge. Its also milled all over underneath. ( initial testing today went well, guess what The tank don't shake no more!!!! and its mounted on alumunium posts with 2 orings at the top for isolation, I set it up worst case on purpose)

Craig

Are you using the Mugen tank or AE one? The tapered chassis is a good idea.Kinda wonder why no one has thought of it before.Let us know when you get picture up of it.

Boomer

How many have had problems with fuel boiling? I haven't seen those problems. . .I do run my fuel line around to a filter that is zip tied to the handle, so it runs away from the manifold. . .

che

What is everyone's experience using the 3 shoe clutch?
And what modifications are needed for it to work properly?

I have put it on my car with stiffer springs and drilled the small holes in each shoe.

Does the shoe have to be modified in any other way?

Che

stefan

I put Mugen shoes, slightly cut and Mugen silver springs in mine, works great

stormperson

iTrader: (1)

the place where i race finally built their onroad track, and i raced on it for the first time today, while i won by a few laps (running at a reduced pace), it was just against a few guys with mildly modded rs4's who dont race normally (no one else showed up..) although i did practice with a mugen, and while i was faster, i felt it wasnt getting through the low speed stuff fast enough, the car was pushing like crazy.
here is my basic set up so far:
springs are switched from stock (stiff in back, soft in front), OS TR engine, mugen fast tires, 26mm 42shore fronts, 30mm 37 shore rears, 60weight oil up front 40 in the back, otherwise the cars set up is basicallly stock.

i was wondering if i could get some advice for the following:

1)low and medium speed corners (180's, and other acute corners), i have very little steering, and while i have plently of rear traction, the car pushes off power more then it should, i dont want to use drag brake since it will kill my corner speed, are there any alternitives? also at the high speed esses (which are mild, in that you dont have to turn much) the car is very nervious and has too much intitial steering, since at the high speed corners with a more acute angle, the car pushes. also under heavy breaking the car has no steering, like the fronts are locking up (But there is no brake bias adjustment to solve this problem easily)

and actually besides the problem with the tank, the car is great! everyone was saying how fast it was after i ran it, and it handled great besides the horrible understeer, cant wait to get this thing dialed!

thanks!

Boomer

Okay, you say you have too much push during the on-power part of the turn and is "nervous" during the off-power part. ..

Your problem likely stems from your switch to soft front springs. You are transferring too much weight forward during turn-in and the soft springs are allowing your front end to lift too much during on-power situations.

Try going back to stock (copper-f, gold-r) springs, or, if running foams, try Barry's setup (yellow-f, red-r)

My car is set up this way (on a high-bite track with foams) and it has just a touch of push, but is very easy to pitch to the proper angle around the corner. . .it is very balanced and easy to drive. Last time I drove it (3 weeks ago, danged family visiting. . . ) I won by several laps, and this with a flameout and what we are now calling the droopy-drawer handicap (my pit guy's pants fell down during the restarting of the motor. . . )

Corse-R

After reading some horror stories about flameouts, fuel boilings and others. I decided to do my own testing and simple modification of the fuel connections.

I post some photos of my car and their fuel lines, if everyone has problems and wants to to test... mine stock tank worked flawless all the weekend (> 25 tanks).

Corse-R

another.

Corse-R

And finally the last....

BTW: Dennis: thankyou very much for the gearing advice, I used this weekend a 54/48 with 21/27 pinions and the two chamber pipe and whipped some serpent as*es...

Corse-R

Uh oh... missed to post the image...

InitialD

Mike, this is sacrilege Serpents and TC3s don't mix too well. They behave like water and oil.

BTW, are you running the Serpent with a NTC3 tank? <j/k>

island-guy

I really don't understand why you guys are having so much problems with the stock fuel tank. Exactly what kind of problems are you guys experiencing? My NTC3 ran great from day one and I installed the pressure fitting on the lid only because it was so wasteful to have fuel siphoning out of the pressure line. It does foam a little at idle whilst sitting still but does it really matter? We run on a tight track with a lot of transitions and the fuel is constantly sloshing around so foaming isn't an issue. I have run on a huge track with large sweepers and didn't notice a problem anywhere. The stock tank has been so successful offroad in the GT and I never had a problem on my FTGT. Don't throw your tanks away, give them to me

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Stormperson Dont be afraid to dial in some drag brake. The NTC3 does not slow down very well by itself so it carries too much speed into slow corners. Its still fast with drag brakes. Try them for a heat and see if you dont have a faster run. That from the mouth of some of the fastest NTC3 Pilots I know of.

Also-for me-I can drive a lot faster using drag brakes then I can using push brakes in every corner. I just use push brakes off of the long straightrs into slow corners or for outbraking someone.

Also-on the push when on the brakes hard-do you have the servo saver super locked down?? If not-that will stop 90% of your push. Use either the RC10GT slipper spring or take the stock screw and cut off a millimeter or two and re-install and tighten down servo saver spring ALL the WAY!!!

Ray