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Old 07-11-2011, 07:14 PM   #9376
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you still have brakes with a diff,a oneway you lose front brakes
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:20 PM   #9377
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ill def look into getting some of those lcds. the cva's are all pretty good still though. not a lot of play.
Swapped the front differential from my parts car into this one and it drives really nice. just have to figure out a setup. this car is a bit of a challenge to properly set up without a setup board and tools though.

would a slipper spool from a tc4 work or do i need a solid front axel kit?

might have to look at modifying the steering linkage some. gets hung up on the drive shaft one way, and the plastic the other. i can grind away at plastic, but ill have to bend a steering link to not hit the drive shaft. then the pivot balls seem like a limit to max steering too.

any suggestion of what to run for setup on a small parking lot course? we do tight technical tracks. wanna be able to stay on the throttle a little through the infield if i can and not be so on/off with it.

running red springs/40wt in the front and gold springs/40wt in the ear. 5mm ride height front, 6 mm rear. havent adjusted droop yet and camber/toe is a guess with a protractor at this point. would i want a narrower front wheel base or narrower in the rear?

still noob. so feel free to shart on me if needed lol.
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:23 PM   #9378
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As far as ntc3 linkage and fit, you will need to grind until nothing touches the shaft!!! As for the front spool, you need the ntc3 one, the tc4/tc3 spool is too short !!! Barry Baker and Mark Pavidis ntc3 setups are available from the team associated website, and they are very good, but I remember their ride height was 4.5mm to 5mm with a small amount of droop...tires 40shore mostly. The body is very important , and I would suggest the newer p56n body..
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:34 PM   #9379
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I forgot to point out that for tight tracks with short sprints, a front spool works better than a diff ! There is no lag in acceleration ! Also ,going through the radio settings, you will need to crank up the acceleration of the throttle servo in both forward and brake directions, to better your lap times !!!
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Old 08-07-2011, 04:53 PM   #9380
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Any servo saver tips? Too loose and i lose steering. Too tight and the factory team servo horn jumps teeth. Any metal horns without the plastic thing?
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:47 PM   #9381
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I think the plastic horn is fine with a tight servo saver screw and the proper epa settings ! Only make sure to grind the part of the servo saver closest to the front input shaft cup , and cut the driveshaft pins if they stick out too much ! You will also need to make sure you shorten the steering turnbuckle to gain some steering range , and grind it enough so it does not hit the main driveshaft in any way ! Lastly try to shim the whole steering system to help eliminate slop, but you will need a strong servo to fight the friction: Savox sv-1273tg ($109.99) 222oz /0.065sec might be the best servo for the job ,but it is not yet available .....
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Old 08-07-2011, 11:02 PM   #9382
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so far ive raised the front dif casing up with some shims from my tc5 kit. maybe 1.5mm raise. this helps it clear the kfactory swingrack. i had originally deleted the swingrack spring but killed a plastic servo horn the first time i side swiped a wall.
Im back to the factory team arm but it has that plastic insert and jumps teeth if you hit somthing. seems the savers deflection amount doesn't matter. can be fixed quicklyish but it makes for a 1 minute pit stop so might as well call it a race.

i might put a 1256/1258TG in and delete the saver spring. just get off the steering when im sure ill hit.
also, was thinking of deleting the radio tray minus the rx box and bolting everything to the chassis. then try to use a direct mount servo saver instead.

already broken two aluminum dif housings. what cheap cold cast pos's. you can tell when you look at the broken posts. crystalized aluminum. too bad this car is old and disco, could try making billit housings.

not doing too bad though. still learning to handle a nitro car and this one is a rough trainer. handles nice when you manage throttle in the infield. throttle exp helped a lot.

actually very stable at speed.

though, i have three of them and for all the parts ive broke, i dont think i could build a second one now.. probably buy a few more parts to stock and run the car until i run out, then get an nt1/733.
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:12 AM   #9383
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If you don't want to break anymore parts, I suggest you put in a widely cut Parma 3"x8" foam bumper in addition to the AE bumper pad ! As far as handling try at least once to run 42shore tires on the left side of the car and 37shore on the right side ! It stops the car from sliding too much, and reduces tire wear ! Also, bring your radio throttle acceleration or speed up to about 60%; it should make your engine pickup faster after a turn .......
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:26 PM   #9384
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/9747824-post10.html
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Old 10-10-2011, 10:42 PM   #9385
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That's what I like to see ! The Ntc3 will do it again in 2012 !!!
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:27 PM   #9386
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Old 06-01-2012, 11:40 PM   #9387
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Nice Frank !!!!
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Old 08-04-2012, 06:31 PM   #9388
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So can these cars keep up with new belt cars? I've always liked the NTC3.
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Old 08-06-2012, 08:38 AM   #9389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyde View Post
So can these cars keep up with new belt cars? I've always liked the NTC3.
Mine will on a smaller track that I ran at. Once you get to a bigger layout your done. I wasn't getting blown away but the advantage that the new cars have was obvious.
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Old 08-06-2012, 06:18 PM   #9390
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Just finished putting the drivetrain and body together with lots of mods(specially the arm mounts)... The ntc3 is nice and tight with the cut parma bumper... No way to break up front now with light touches... I should be putting the rest of the stuff next week.....
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