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Old 05-28-2009, 06:57 PM   #9301
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Hi, I use JLR, no much problems with stripping gears, I use 54/48 and 20/26 or 21/27. Good shimming and before run I allways apply PTFE lubricant spray into gear box. It helps to me. Generaly I change gears 1 time in a season - about 10-12 one day races per year - and not cause of strip but they are worn.
well at my track we do full day running every sunday. so i basically can get about half a gallon through in one day if i keep running.

30min nitro / 30 min elec

you get the idea

i'll look into the ld3 gears, thanks nitrohead
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Old 05-28-2009, 09:24 PM   #9302
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Check the post of Brent Davis over on RC Universe website, the thread call " Those Nasty 1/10 scale cars with .21 " Examples and photos of his big block nitro tc-3.
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Old 05-31-2009, 09:00 AM   #9303
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At my LHS there is a NTC3 RTR on the shelf. Is there any way to tell if it has the V.2 rear suspension or not?

And on a different note, do you all feel the RTR is a good bargain?
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Old 05-31-2009, 11:33 PM   #9304
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At my LHS there is a NTC3 RTR on the shelf. Is there any way to tell if it has the V.2 rear suspension or not?

And on a different note, do you all feel the RTR is a good bargain?
How to tell if it is v2 rear susp... look at the susp a arms holding the hub carriers. V1 uses the same parts, front and rear. v2 has only a tie rod on the top rear.

As far as getting the rtr, if it does not have a 2 speed, I don't believe it will be v2 suspension. However if it is the 2 speed version, you should be clear there. When getting an rtr, you are paying for radio and motor equipment you would probably need to upgrade to be competitive when you do decide you want to be. Keep in mind that the hot chassis, lets say the serpent, or the kyosho, become quickly outdated by almost yearly editions, which change minor susp parts and what not.. call it a new kit, put that out on the market, and then its tough to find parts you need in a local hobby shop. The ntc3 is outdated in a similer fashion.

I run this car right now, and if a friend asked me what he should get, I would tell him, get a newer gen( xray, kyosho, serpent). Do your homework on componentry, and just do it right at the start, and save the wasted money on rtr parts youll be scrapping in a month or 2. Your car is only fast enough until one of you friends has a faster one~!
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Old 06-10-2009, 07:06 PM   #9305
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I assume you are using the white diff gears? If your using the black gears, switch to the whites. If you are using the whites then that sirio must have gobbs of power. I remember reading somewhere that with those real powerful motors, the most you can run is a 5tooth split without compromising diff gears. 5 split sounds wierd I know, I think they were running a 6 split on the tranny and 5 split on the pinions. It sounds goofy, but it is supposed to mesh well.
We used Dennis Richey (motorman) engines and a 6 tooth split was it anymore and your done stripped and done. The LDF had just come out and we seen that the gears would work, but steel gears plastic diffs, to much friction and heat! we found with the right engine chassis combos the diffs would last on all short tracks where 4 to 6 tooth split worked. Long tracks diff. story! theres no set of plastic gears that would last with Richey HP. What are you talking about 5 tooth split on pinions? I never new they made different ring and pinion combos, that would be hard to do without total diff adjustment we put the TC3 in the closet for 4 years! BB
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Old 06-11-2009, 03:56 AM   #9306
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We used Dennis Richey (motorman) engines and a 6 tooth split was it anymore and your done stripped and done. The LDF had just come out and we seen that the gears would work, but steel gears plastic diffs, to much friction and heat! we found with the right engine chassis combos the diffs would last on all short tracks where 4 to 6 tooth split worked. Long tracks diff. story! theres no set of plastic gears that would last with Richey HP. What are you talking about 5 tooth split on pinions? I never new they made different ring and pinion combos, that would be hard to do without total diff adjustment we put the TC3 in the closet for 4 years! BB
Hey there,
For the Ntc3, you can purchase pinion gears ranging from 20 or 21 tooth, through 27 tooth. The spur gears come stock at 54 tooth 1st gear, and 50 tooth 2nd. What the guys did was change the spur gears to 54,48 which is a 6 tooth difference. Then on the pinion gears, the would run a 21,26 which is a five tooth split. It seems as though you would want to run 20,26, or 21,27 to even the mesh out, but the 5,6 split meshes well, and supposedly saves diff gears if your using a brute motor, pretty much any modern rear exhaust race motor. I don't think there is anything you can do to the diffs that would allow you to run a richey mod!
Spreading my gears out from 4 to 6 split really woke up the top end, which is what I lacked, while I had competitive pull outa the corners.
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Old 06-15-2009, 09:47 PM   #9307
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SO I have had a few weeks of some serious race action on the Ver. 1 NTC#, so far no problems at all. My NTC3 is actually more reliable than my ETC3. However, worried about the rear toe links coming loose, I decided to switch all the ball cups to RPM units a few weeks ago, so Im sure those are helping. I took a look at a fellow racer's Ver. 2 NTC3, and I can honestly say I like the way camber and caster are able to adjust better on my Ver 1. I also like how track with is more easily adjustable and toe as well. Maybe Im just too used to the way my car is now, that I dont plan on upgrading. I am however having some cornering issues. I ordered a new aluminum steering rack to hopefully take some of the play out of the front end. The car is very stable coming out of the turns and on the high speed straights, but the tight turns are what is killing me. Hopefully this new setup will I am trying will do better next weekend...
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Old 06-16-2009, 06:16 AM   #9308
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glad to see the tc3's are still alive and well..I personally will run them till they stop making parts for them. Here's some cool footage we shot during a weekend bashing session with our tc3's. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JnNimuBins
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Old 06-16-2009, 07:23 AM   #9309
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We used Dennis Richey (motorman) engines and a 6 tooth split was it anymore and your done stripped and done. The LDF had just come out and we seen that the gears would work, but steel gears plastic diffs, to much friction and heat! we found with the right engine chassis combos the diffs would last on all short tracks where 4 to 6 tooth split worked. Long tracks diff. story! theres no set of plastic gears that would last with Richey HP. What are you talking about 5 tooth split on pinions? I never new they made different ring and pinion combos, that would be hard to do without total diff adjustment we put the TC3 in the closet for 4 years! BB
.................If you are running a really powerful engine you won't be able to do it without those steel diffs from the Ofna LD3. My setup is frictionless but you have to know how to shimm your diff. 2 years I have ran my NitroTC--3 with the steel pinion and spur gear from the LD-3 no signs of wear and smooth as silk.
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Old 06-16-2009, 01:45 PM   #9310
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That was a great video nitronutzzz. The green car was really puttin the smackdown on that yellow banana.
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Old 06-17-2009, 03:07 PM   #9311
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.................If you are running a really powerful engine you won't be able to do it without those steel diffs from the Ofna LD3. My setup is frictionless but you have to know how to shimm your diff. 2 years I have ran my NitroTC--3 with the steel pinion and spur gear from the LD-3 no signs of wear and smooth as silk.
hmm! shim diffs?? you think afteer about 10K invested in the ntc3 and all the r&d I have done since the beginng I know how and what to do with massive hp and knowing how to set the car up and proper shiming you can do the 6 tooth split, believe me been there done that!! I'll post ics of my car shortly which is for sale and prob 2K in spare parts to go with it! Also nothing to me but I helped BMI with the R&D on the BMI NTC3 chassis and s you guys don't use it you don'nt know what your missing!!!!!! All weight destributed below the driveshaft the chassis is expensinve but well worth it!!! i MAY ALSO HAVE A FEW OF THEM AROUND FOR $!00 IF INTERESTED. I build engines and diffs is real cars and trucks diesels, from 2 hp to 2000 hp theres no ssuch things sa frictionless!!!! whereeve theres parts rubbing together theres friction man! BB I also have about 45 pairs of SQ foam tires still wrapped in plastcic for fot sell at a good deal all different shores! bb
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Old 06-17-2009, 04:59 PM   #9312
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hmm! shim diffs?? you think afteer about 10K invested in the ntc3 and all the r&d I have done since the beginng I know how and what to do with massive hp and knowing how to set the car up and proper shiming you can do the 6 tooth split, believe me been there done that!! I'll post ics of my car shortly which is for sale and prob 2K in spare parts to go with it! Also nothing to me but I helped BMI with the R&D on the BMI NTC3 chassis and s you guys don't use it you don'nt know what your missing!!!!!! All weight destributed below the driveshaft the chassis is expensinve but well worth it!!! i MAY ALSO HAVE A FEW OF THEM AROUND FOR $!00 IF INTERESTED. I build engines and diffs is real cars and trucks diesels, from 2 hp to 2000 hp theres no ssuch things sa frictionless!!!! whereeve theres parts rubbing together theres friction man! BB I also have about 45 pairs of SQ foam tires still wrapped in plastcic for fot sell at a good deal all different shores! bb
......................Well I can only speak for myself my steel spur gear has lasted 2 years behind a modified .28 LRP I don't want to mislead you I started out with the LD3 diff but then I removed the plastic gear from a Associated rear spool and put the steel spur gear on there , this set up was much lighter than the LD-3 gear diff set up and made my car faster. I am not running a diff now but a solid rear axle with a steel spur from a LD-3.

Last edited by nitrohead5300; 06-17-2009 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 06-17-2009, 05:42 PM   #9313
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My TC-3 seems frictionless when I compare it to my belt driven cars . The drive train on the belt cars in general are not as smooth as shaft. But you are right my TC-3 has some friction
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Old 06-18-2009, 02:14 AM   #9314
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Any suggestions for a new .12 engine that won't fry the differentials but can still compete at the club level. I currently have the old mugen mr12 but its starting to go on me.
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Old 06-18-2009, 10:15 AM   #9315
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How are you guys frying diffs in this car? I've ran almost a gallon through the OS18 CVR I have in mine and havent had any bit of trouble. My ETC3 on the other hand, I have fried that diff (welded the two halves together) running a 9000kV motor.
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