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Old 07-06-2008, 07:01 PM   #9256
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Originally Posted by Baedarlboo View Post
I can't argue with price point...but after the amount of money i spent to get it race worthy, it ended up costing about what a mugen would have been. So I sold all my ntc3 stuff, and bought a used Mugen MTX4R. I've ran the hell out of the car for the past couple months....and i've broke nothing, and wore out nothing. I'm really not trying to put the NTC3 down, as i've had fun racing it, I'm just letting you know my experiences. The great thing about the NTC3 though, you could stop by ANY hobby shop, and find all the parts you need. That is one thing I miss...

All great points and I am truly thinking to make the same change.
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:50 PM   #9257
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If you open the diff to clean and lube regularly and take a little time adjusting the internal clearance the diff will last over a season and a half. That is racing every weekend parking lot/club racing and a couple of races at the high speed Silverbowl in Vegas. I run a Collari .12 (almost three years) so out goes the 'can't deal with power' argument. The only point to agree would be the pivot balls. I am using lower pivot balls from Mugen. Thicker and so far... unbendable... I have thought about moving to a Mugen... but being the only Associated car keeps me with this car. Just stubborn.
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Old 07-06-2008, 09:57 PM   #9258
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Originally Posted by yodace View Post
what mods did u do to make it more race worthy? Did u take the front one way out?
I have run a one way, spool and diff. For short parking lot type tracks I prefer the diff. The one way works for fast, flowing tracks as long as the car ahead of you is running a diff (then he'll brake and you will rear end him). A spool can work for both... need to work on technique... I just run a diff everywhere 'cause I am use to it.
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Old 07-06-2008, 10:31 PM   #9259
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If you open the diff to clean and lube regularly and take a little time adjusting the internal clearance the diff will last over a season and a half. That is racing every weekend parking lot/club racing and a couple of races at the high speed Silverbowl in Vegas. I run a Collari .12 (almost three years) so out goes the 'can't deal with power' argument. The only point to agree would be the pivot balls. I am using lower pivot balls from Mugen. Thicker and so far... unbendable... I have thought about moving to a Mugen... but being the only Associated car keeps me with this car. Just stubborn.
And I'm glad it works so well for you. But with all the mods you have had to do to it to keep it running is what got me fed up. It's a money pit that never ends. If it's not one thing, it's another. You make one thing stronger, and find that it makes another part weaker. After years of messing with "the fix", opening up the diff for maintenance, only to find out, that after a few times, you have to replace the diff housing as the screw holes get stripped. The steering bell crank eventually gets sloppy even with bearings. The CVD are weak, chassis too wide, ect ect, i can go on forever. The cars good for dirt oval, and starters who want to get into nitro cheap. But other then that...you get the picture. I've had my fair share with the car, and it was time to move on.

BTW, if you're using a 3 year old collari, you're not putting the type of power i'm talking about. Stick a red dot, 12 plus, or any MurnanModified motor. You will then see what i'm talking about. But that motor is working for you, you're better off using it since it won't eat gears. And no nitro engine will run at it's full potential strapped to a NTC3, as the pipe selection is VERY slim.

Last edited by Baedarlboo; 07-06-2008 at 10:42 PM.
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Old 07-06-2008, 10:36 PM   #9260
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Originally Posted by yodace View Post
what mods did u do to make it more race worthy? Did u take the front one way out?
Only in an open large sweeping turn track would you want to use a one way. You'll have very little brakes to stop you. If you use the spool, even the slightest bump to the front wheel, and you're looking at a stripped front diff/pinion gear. Stick with the diff, it works best, the diffs need attention often, and if you open the diff often, you'll need to change all the other parts around it too, as the plastic will eventually wear out, and the screws will no longer hold tight. My advice, don't buy a hot motor, and drive it smooth. Great car to start out with, easy to drive, and easy to find parts.
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Old 07-12-2008, 09:13 PM   #9261
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So what did u do to get race ready
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Old 07-12-2008, 09:59 PM   #9262
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I recently went to a small club race. the ntc3 was the TQ. This was an extremely small track more of an electric track. I was running my MTX4r and I could not keep up with him in the infield. His front and rear diff setup was perfect for this type of track. I was running a oneway up front But about 4 minutes into the main I kept the pressure on him. He cut one board too close and that was the end he broke both pivots balls I cruised to the win. The NTC3 is a great car on a small track; but it is not very durable.
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Old 07-12-2008, 10:03 PM   #9263
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
I recently went to a small club race. the ntc3 was the TQ. This was an extremely small track more of an electric track. I was running my MTX4r and I could not keep up with him in the infield. His front and rear diff setup was perfect for this type of track. I was running a oneway up front But about 4 minutes into the main I kept the pressure on him. He cut one board too close and that was the end he broke both pivots balls I cruised to the win. The NTC3 is a great car on a small track; but it is not very durable.
Cheap to get into, to expensive to stay in.

Buy spare parts in bulk.
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Old 07-13-2008, 06:23 PM   #9264
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LOL NTC3FT Kit came friday sending it back to get a
MTX4R? Hopefully they will let me return it to A-Main? It hasnt been opened yet...
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:34 AM   #9265
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Questions??

Any active NTC3 owners out there?
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Old 02-23-2009, 09:39 AM   #9266
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WELL IM A NOOB AND JUST GOT MY CAR FROM A BROTHER OF MINE AND CANT SEEM TO GET IT WORKINK RIGHT.... ITS A Nitro TC3 WITH A TWO SPEED GEAR. IT START BUT IT NEED ADJUSTING AND I DONT KNOW HOW TO DO IT..VERY FUSTRATED...I THINK IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE HOUSING ON THE DRIVE SHAFT RIGHT BE FOR THE FIRST GEAR THAT HAS THE FOUR BOLTS FOR ADUJUSTING...PLEASE HELP
Can a Ntc3 owner or someone who has knowledge of this car help this gentleman...
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Old 02-23-2009, 10:05 AM   #9267
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I still run a NTC3.. would be glad to try to help....but I have no idea what he is asking...
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:25 AM   #9268
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Some of my friends are using steel diffs and steel pinion gears from a Ofna LD-3 to solve the diff gear stripping problem in the Nitro TC-3. It works too no more stripped gears.
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Old 02-23-2009, 07:09 PM   #9269
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" THINK IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH THE HOUSING ON THE DRIVE SHAFT RIGHT BE FOR THE FIRST GEAR THAT HAS THE FOUR BOLTS FOR ADUJUSTING...PLEASE HELP"

Four bolts by the first gear spur? Diff case bolts? Throttle servo is bolted down with four bolts. I cant figure out what he wants to adj?
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Old 02-25-2009, 03:04 PM   #9270
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Good to see people still using this car. I drove this car to two club championshops in 2001 so i do have a soft spot for it.

Does the FT NTC3 come with a front one-way diff?

Thanks in advance!
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