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Old 06-15-2007, 07:23 PM   #9151
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naw got one in a ntc3 lot a few days ago.
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Old 06-27-2007, 06:12 AM   #9152
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G-Day From Oz. I posted here not long back and thought I would share what I have been doing. My first step was replacing the shocks, I had a set of nice Xray alloy shocks with adjustable pistons and white springs which are slightly longer. I had the alloy threaded Associated ones but they leaked and the Xray shocks feel smoother and helped the car stick on the track but I still lacked traction. The setup is standard except for max castor, rear shocks leaned inwards at top, 1.mm spacer under rear upper outer link, 6mm ride height with around 4mm droop rear and 2mm at front. I then fitted an old set of Takeoff 27s and bingo traction problem solved, the car went from sliding badly to sticking like dung on a blanket but pulled to the right on power.

About 2 1/2 years back I ran an NTC3 with OS12TR, it was fast but I always had trouble with it pulling to the right under power, and I still have the same problem. I thought it was the slop in the rack which I have eliminated as much as possible but the problem persists. So I recheck all arms for freeness and shocks for length etc and even put 30 grams extra on the battery side but still it pulls to the right. Another guy at our track runs a well optioned NTC3 with K-Factory chassis and extra brace etc and it drives straight so what is it ? simply tweak or torque steer or what ?

I have ordered the Team Blue Star chassis and aluminium steering arms along with bearings for the steering rack, stiffer clutch springs and a few other spares. I am hoping to get rid of the pulling to right problem and hope I am on the right track. Sorry about the long post, any advice on my one major glitch would be appreciated. P.S the car kicked butt at our last meeting but just makes it awkward when it won't go dead straight.
Regards Dan
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Old 06-27-2007, 06:20 AM   #9153
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dude my advice is this check/replace hub carrier bearings on right side and check diff bearings on right side of diffs I have had this problem, turns out I boardslapped the wheels at some point and it blows the bearings to hell only takes like two hits for them to get gritty and much more and it screws em up the inside bearing shield comes out and little chunkies of ball bearings come out also and when this happens it binds up the driveshaft something horrendous, dude check those thats where my money is
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Old 07-09-2007, 08:28 AM   #9154
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Is this car dead?? I was planning to pick one up at my lhs but I won't if it is about to be outted.
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Old 07-09-2007, 10:53 AM   #9155
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not really there are alot of places to get parts and i have one and they hang with alot of the cars out there. get the factory team and put a o.s. 12tz as the first engine in there you wont regret it.
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Old 08-08-2007, 12:27 AM   #9156
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Default NTC3 turn to ENTC3

After 2 years hibernate
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Old 08-08-2007, 01:57 PM   #9157
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Have a version 1 car.Just pulled it out to do some onroad racing with it.Started reading this thread.Can anyone point me to "the fix" post.Can't seem to find it with the search function.Thanks,Mario.
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Old 08-13-2007, 05:11 PM   #9158
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Hey all
I just picked up a NTC3 Team Kit on E-Gay for $150.00 ! It seems
Associated has a E-Store and sells off stuff for cheap !
Keep an eye out for them. I was going to buy one for $309
at some Hobby Crapple place buy why ? A V-One RRR is the same
price !! (ok a little more). At a local track I visit, there is a guy with
a NTC3 and he does quite well against the Kyoshos and Serpents.
He is a very good, calm driver. My statement still stands "Give Lamberto
Collari or Josh Cyrul or (put your world class driver here) and give them
a NTC3 and the will win the Worlds" It's not so much the car (kinda) as
the driver and prep/setup !
John
(AKA Nitrosniffer)
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Old 08-13-2007, 06:35 PM   #9159
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loving my lrp powered ntc3 team kit I picked up new and cheap. got it handing completely like its on rails.

it has so far surprised quite a few people, putting down quicker laps and out qualifying mugens, xrays and the likes. love their faces when I remove the shell and they see what it is...
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Old 08-14-2007, 07:15 AM   #9160
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus1 View Post
Have a version 1 car.Just pulled it out to do some onroad racing with it.Started reading this thread.Can anyone point me to "the fix" post.Can't seem to find it with the search function.Thanks,Mario.

I don't think the guy makes them anymore... You can try searching ebay in the radio control section...

I'm still running my first generation car... I really don't race nitro on road so I see no reason to buy another car... Plus I can walk into any of my LHS's and get parts still...
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:19 AM   #9161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus1 View Post
Have a version 1 car.Just pulled it out to do some onroad racing with it.Started reading this thread.Can anyone point me to "the fix" post.Can't seem to find it with the search function.Thanks,Mario.
"The Fix" involved using longer screws so that the front gear case was attached with screws that went from the chassis to the upper case. There was a parts list around but don't know if it's still here.

If you can find anyone that sells K-Factory they had a front graphite shock tower with an aluminum piece that went over the gear case. This will also work since it's held on with 7 screws instead of 3.
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:43 AM   #9162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiml View Post
"The Fix" involved using longer screws so that the front gear case was attached with screws that went from the chassis to the upper case. There was a parts list around but don't know if it's still here.

If you can find anyone that sells K-Factory they had a front graphite shock tower with an aluminum piece that went over the gear case. This will also work since it's held on with 7 screws instead of 3.
I noticed that there are different versions of the diff case... I had to replace my front after a run in with some pvc and I was just going to change the top... The bottoms are different and the top wouldn't fit...

There's K factory stuff all over ebay....
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Old 08-14-2007, 11:37 AM   #9163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus1 View Post
Can anyone point me to "the fix" post.Can't seem to find it with the search function.Thanks,Mario.
You can contact BMI at:

http://www.bmiracing.com/contactus.php

Scroll through the products to 'the Fix' and send them an e-mail. They will respond with the way to you with a way to get 'fixed'. This part is worth pursuing.
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:49 AM   #9164
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Does anyone know what servo spacersi should be using on my NTC3 for the Sanwa ERG-VX on both steering and throttle?

Thankyou in advance.

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Old 08-25-2007, 07:16 PM   #9165
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Hi

Can anyone assist with my servo question as my new radio gear should arrive on Monday. The Sanwa ERG-VX are not listed in the manual, so i am not sure what servo spacers to use.

Also, are people still having issues with the fuel tank. I have been looking around for larger o rings to space the tank of the chassis further, but the LHS only has the standard ones like the kit comes with

All suggestions are welcome

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