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Old 04-25-2007, 08:26 AM   #9076
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Other than the weight distribution problem is there any other issues with the fuel tank? Having read through earlier posts I know there use to be a foaming problem. That seems to be fixed. I have not experianced any. At least I can say I have not noticed any change of tune as I go through multiple tanks of fuel. We don't have a fancy spill dam like some of the more expensive cars but performance wise is there anything else I should be looking for?
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Old 04-25-2007, 12:24 PM   #9077
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k factory makes a low profile fuel tank. i got tired of my fuel tanks leaking and cracking just from the vibration of the car, so i gave these a try.. haven't had to replace it for 2 years.

Also, I've seen excessive foaming on cars with bad engines. If the engine does not idle or throttle smoothly, vibrating excessively, this can be a cause of foaming in the fuel tank. If you have another engine to try, I would say give that a shot too. I had a novarossi engine that ran away from a glitch, flipped over and was on WOT for about 30 seconds before chase it down and turn it off. Since then, the engine vibrated so much when i ran it i just tossed it and got a new engine.

i'd say ntc3 is still a competitive car because it is a stiff, sharp handling car, as soon as you get rid of the steering slop. The car will do well in club races. However, it is not built to last a 45 minute main. Serpents, mugens, g4s, and kyoshos will last the mains because they have more flexible components. Also, it makes a good racer at a club level because you can actually find and afford parts if you break it.. good luck finding g4s, serpent, or kyosho parts.. or finding a side belt for a mugen for less than 10 bucks at the LHS..
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Old 04-25-2007, 08:19 PM   #9078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wizby
The ntc3 has 3 major things against it. #1 The fuel tank offset in the chassis. Balance changes as the fuel load burns off.
It would take a national caliber driver to notice a handling difference. Most drivers unconsciously compensate for the very slight difference as this happens.
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:13 PM   #9079
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.....car because it is a stiff, sharp handling car, as soon as you get rid of the steering slop.

how do you get rid of that steering slop?
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:42 PM   #9080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by factory racer
.....car because it is a stiff, sharp handling car, as soon as you get rid of the steering slop.

how do you get rid of that steering slop?
I got an aluminum swing rack and customized it for clearance, put in bearings and all new ball studs/ball ends. I also always put nice heavy grease in the ball studs. That along with a good metal gear servo made it decent.
I am retiring it now though, because I was having to recheck/readjust alignment angles after every heat. Also it is overweight compared to newer cars.
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Old 04-26-2007, 05:47 AM   #9081
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Quote:
Originally Posted by factory racer
.....car because it is a stiff, sharp handling car, as soon as you get rid of the steering slop.

how do you get rid of that steering slop?
I just shimmed the hell out of the suspension, put bearings for steering, rpm heavy duty ball cups switched out after every race day... and spent about 2 hours adjusting nuts and bolts... Still there is a bit of play, which is not seen in my G4s or mtx4. I think its inherent with the kit to prevent damage in a crash or tap into the walls.
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Old 04-26-2007, 09:55 AM   #9082
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Viper23
Other than the weight distribution problem is there any other issues with the fuel tank?
If you get hit in the side hard enough, the tank can break. On a very hard hit, the pipe can be pushed into the tank, either cracking it or shearing it from the mounting screws. I have had it happen to me, even with a K-Factory tank, and always carried a spare in my pit box.
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Old 04-26-2007, 01:27 PM   #9083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A. Rhodes
If you get hit in the side hard enough, the tank can break. On a very hard hit, the pipe can be pushed into the tank, either cracking it or shearing it from the mounting screws. I have had it happen to me, even with a K-Factory tank, and always carried a spare in my pit box.
This happened to me at least 2 times... But at least the AE pipe does not bend as easy as others!

And the NTC3 is still a competitive club racer! I finished 2nd on my last club race, ahead of V-OneRRR's, MTX-4's and 720's!
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:33 PM   #9084
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it all depends on the racers, you only notice a huge difference when you get into the long ass mains, most of the club racers probably just talk about how their is such a big difference but really dont see one, its all about the driver in my opinion
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Old 04-26-2007, 06:47 PM   #9085
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You need to put orings in the ballstuds, and then snap the ball ends on, that gets rid of most of the slop.
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:17 AM   #9086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A. Rhodes
If you get hit in the side hard enough, the tank can break. On a very hard hit, the pipe can be pushed into the tank, either cracking it or shearing it from the mounting screws. I have had it happen to me, even with a K-Factory tank, and always carried a spare in my pit box.
Good advice. I'll pick one up for the spares box.
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Old 04-27-2007, 08:22 AM   #9087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by factory racer
it all depends on the racers, you only notice a huge difference when you get into the long ass mains, most of the club racers probably just talk about how their is such a big difference but really dont see one, its all about the driver in my opinion
Agree. It is still the guy (or gal) moving the controls. It 's like that in other forms of racing too. A $10,000 bike is not going to transform me into Lance Armstrong or the best golf clubs on the market into Tiger Woods. With that said, it is ti9me to get out and practice!
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Old 04-27-2007, 12:16 PM   #9088
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that is one hundred percent true, you can go out and buy a mugen mtx-4 or serpent or whatever, you still wont win even though the car may be better, the driver is still the same.
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Old 04-28-2007, 06:41 PM   #9089
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Hello all

Is the One Way unit for the TC3/TC4 different from the unit for the NTC3? I ask this because I tried to install the One Way Differential from my TC4 and the outdrives were not long enough for the NTC3.

Thanks
Loren
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Old 04-28-2007, 07:07 PM   #9090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llamont
Hello all

Is the One Way unit for the TC3/TC4 different from the unit for the NTC3? I ask this because I tried to install the One Way Differential from my TC4 and the outdrives were not long enough for the NTC3.

Thanks
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Yes - the TC3/TC4 use the 3978, the NTC3 uses the 1728
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