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Old 01-02-2002, 09:48 AM   #76
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Originally posted by bbntc3
AMG: I got to run the car one time so far, and other than some setup changes it seems to be a major contender. It has great acceleration and very good corner speed. I took a TC3 conversion and raced it against the best of cars and did very well so the NTC3 could only be better, the design and performance of a shaft driven car is unreal, especially corner speed. The only dislike I have is the weight, my car is 10 oz.s over the roar weight limit of 54 oz.s. So all the optional graphite parts and the light weight 2speed parts will be a must to me.
Could you list what you weighed it with
receiver pack
engine(pullstart)
servos
rubber tires?
body & fuel ?
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Old 01-02-2002, 03:34 PM   #77
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AMG: I built the car out of all stainless steel screws, they have a deeper offset in the allen head that lets the wrench go alittle deeper into the screw so they don't they don't strip as quickly as the stock screws, so thats alittle extra wt. I weighed it on Digitial R12 Refrigerant scales so its about as accurate as you can get.
The car had no fuel, or body. I had a Trinity 1100 5 cell hump pack
bat. in it, 2 Hitec 5925 digitial servos , RB x12 rear exhaust 5 port non pullstart engine, and the stock vrage tire package that comes with the kit, and a novak xxtra reciever. So with body, thats what another 3.5 oz? I think your in the serpent and mugen ranges as far as weight goes. I never weigh with fuel in it, because here your only weighed after a race. I think the heavier cars work better if you have the engine to pull it! I talk to Chris Smith alot when we worked with the TC3 conversion and he is doing all the R&D work on the new Trinity REFLEX, and he says it only weighs 57.5 oz.

Toney: I was just wondering if you had the specs on the car yet since AE has'nt let it out yet! The electric TC3 is 1.5 oz. lighter with all graphite parts so I figured they have same weight figure for the NTC3. AN oz. of weight is not much, but ever little bit counts. I know graphite is much stronger than the composite material, I learned that with the TC3 conversion, you could not even touch the boards with it without breaking something. Thats why my conversion was all alum!!! You might bend it, but you can still finish a race! AT this weight of the NTC3 I can't add the Alum. goodies that I like to have. I figure the hot after market parts in the future for the car will be made of Titanium do to the weigth difference, but twice the price! When I built the car I said to my self I could see $1000 worth of aftermarket goodies.

Manticore: We race on mostly short tracks with a tight corners so corner speed to me is like you said off mainly instead of going in to the corner, but I did notice the speed is up entering than my conversion is. I'm basing it off my conversion due to its the only thing shaft driven here till now that I have work with, belt drive cars with phillips head screws has never interested me really, I bought a V1R and sold it before I put it together.! A real car is shaft driven! so they have to work better. I know we talked once about the shaft driven cars did'nt make it where you are at, but this car is built with American technology,(no offense) so it has too be good!!!!!!!!
It's also like the conversion, it don't matter about the tank offset its balances real close too the same empty or full of fuel, you really can't tell any difference as far as driving goes, empty/full.

Last edited by bbntc3; 01-02-2002 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 01-02-2002, 09:18 PM   #78
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That's what i wanted to hear you say! I used to run a NOB4 and I weighed that at the IFMAR pre-worlds with body and foams and it was 56 oz. Similar Impulse was 64 oz.(1/2 lb more) It's tough to find good concsitent info on weights since there are so many variables. I'll be putting on a lot of aluminum screws. The stock ones weigh .02 oz each as far as I can tell (anyone got better info?) and aluminum would be 20 % of that. I counted 59 screws that I would feel comfortable replacing with AL, so that would save about an once. I really think the amount of fasteners AE uses is unbeleivable. The receiver pack is also a place where you can save a bunch of weight. I think a major source of the weight is in the diffs, those things weighed a ton. A one-way and solid axle would help that.
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Old 01-02-2002, 09:44 PM   #79
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OB4: You can keep the alum screws, I'm always breaking them no matter where I put them. I'm looking to lighten it in other ways like you said. I would like to keep it under 64oz., my conversion with all alum goodies weighs 63oz. so with all the upgrades the NTC3 has over the conversion AE done a pretty good job keeping the weight down. Anyway I think it will race right with the best of them , especially them damn serpents! Thats another reason why I bought it, the serpents give my conversion fits!!! I also seen that AE will offer an all graphite up grade for $50. The way the NTC3 is built all graphite would have to drop it 2 to 3 oz's.
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Old 01-03-2002, 09:20 AM   #80
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No offense, but how do you break the diff case screws?? I guess my philosophy is that if you smack something hard enough to break certain screws you probably won't finish or finish well enough to be happy anyway. The only ones I am a little concerned over is the pivot ball retaining screws. I might use titanium there. I agree that the graphite stuff will drop the weight significantly(because of those huge shock towers). It also seems that the right side of the chassis under the battery and receiver could be cut out substantially, there's a lot of AL there.
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Old 01-03-2002, 10:49 AM   #81
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For people who have the car, what engines are you using? I am thinking about getting one and i am doing some research on engines.

thanks....
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Old 01-03-2002, 02:37 PM   #82
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OB4 I have'nt broke any diff screws, I was just messing with you. I tried to use them a couple times on the bottom of the conversion and they kept working loose and I would over tighten and break them. The underneath of the bat tray was 1 place I was looking at to lighten and maybe drill some hole in the receiver tray as well, and I think some trimming on the shocktowers and chassis braces wouldn't hurt a thing.

Wolfman: I club race so engine rules are simple here. RB Concepts x12 5 port, was my choice in the car.
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Old 01-03-2002, 08:10 PM   #83
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Tony,
When is Associated releasing a Factory Team version of the NTC3? Also, what starter box do you recommend? What body, tires(Sorex, Pit, HPI?), upgrades (graphite parts, aluminum, titanium, etc.), and most importantly motor do you recommend? Thanks.
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Old 01-03-2002, 08:26 PM   #84
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I use the ofna starter box, any box you can turn the motor around in will work. I think AE has their own box for the NTC3 coming out soon.
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Old 01-03-2002, 10:30 PM   #85
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TP> You recomended a OS 12TR motor, but there is a variety of them on the website. What are the differences. The models are below....

OSMG2001 - 12 TR w/#10M Carb
OSMG2003 - 12 TR Pilot Shaft w/#10J Carb
OSMG2002 - 12 TR w/#10J Carb
OSMG2004 - 12 TR Short Shaft w/#10M Carb

thanks in advance....And this motor looks kick ass.
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Old 01-04-2002, 08:26 AM   #86
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Ok....here we go:

bbntc3: Sorry, haven't had the time yet to call them. I'm making a note to do it today...

Ty: FTNTC3...probably not for awhile. The original TC3 was out for some time before the FT came out. As for the starter box, AE (from what I've heard) IS coming out with their own version, but don't quote me on that. I'm not sure it's a 'for-sure' thing, yet. Any starter box should work (I use a Mugen unit)...i's just a matter of where you place the chassis pegs on top.

Body: I would have to say either the Stratus (imagine that) or the Accord. I've heard the Accord works REALLY good....I personally use the Stratus. Very stable body.

Tires: There are 2 setups in the manual...one for rubber and one for foam. I am using the foam setup. A properly setup rubber car MIGHT keep up with the foam setup, but, if the foam setup is even close to a good setup, the foam car is GONE! No comparison. Plus, foam is legal for all nitro racing. Bummer. Not looking forward to the upkeep of foam. But, it's the wave in nitro.

Upgrades: The car really doesn't need any. Maybe TI turnbuckles. I have the graphite kit, the woven graphite upper deck, aluminum brake cam, TI turnbuckles, new extra gears, etc, and, while it looks VERY cool, it may not make the car any better or faster. I didn't weigh the car before the graphite kit to see how much it saved. The car does come with a silver aluminum shaft. I think they are coming out with a blue one.

wolfeman: not sure which is the one you want. I would think you can get the long shaft to be safe. If it's too long, you can always cut it....or wait and see which one to get. I should have mine next week, so, I can let ya know then...
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Old 01-04-2002, 09:16 AM   #87
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Where did you get the graphite components and graphite upper deck?? Also, could you weigh your car, and list out what componenets where installed with it?
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Old 01-04-2002, 09:18 AM   #88
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Where did you get the graphite components and graphite upper deck?? Also, sould you weigh your car, and list out what componenets where installed with it?
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Old 01-04-2002, 10:26 AM   #89
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All the parts on the car AE upgrades...being a factory driver I sometimes get the goods way before the buying customer does...

As for weight, it might be sometime before I can do that....I just moved living locals and not sure where my scale is....but I'm guessing it might be a couple oz's...
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Old 01-04-2002, 10:49 AM   #90
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TP > Thanks for the info. Can you tell me what the differences are in the engines? Short Shaft, Pilot shaft, etc.????

Do you know when you are getting yours?
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