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Old 01-28-2006, 03:33 AM   #8656
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Hello Gents

I am usually an electric tourer racer, but i have been provided with a Nitro TC3 kit to build and run at a large meeting coming up in Sydaey Australia, i have little experience with Nitro, and even less with the NTC3, is there anything required to run the car successfuly that is not included in the box?


Anything else important i should know about building and running this car?

Thanks in advance

Bradd Vercoe
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Old 01-28-2006, 04:39 AM   #8657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jap TC3
If you like to try... my usual weekend setup..
JapTC3, thanks very much for posting this! This is actually not far from my current setup, but I'll have to try it for myself. Your rear suspension is much firmer than mine is, and perhaps that would help me.
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Old 01-28-2006, 05:15 AM   #8658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe
Hello Gents

I am usually an electric tourer racer, but i have been provided with a Nitro TC3 kit to build and run at a large meeting coming up in Sydaey Australia, i have little experience with Nitro, and even less with the NTC3, is there anything required to run the car successfuly that is not included in the box?


Anything else important i should know about building and running this car?

Thanks in advance

Bradd Vercoe



hmm,make sure u read the manual BEFORE u build the car.the manual is excellent IMO.n make sure u shim the diff gears n mesh the spur/pinion correctly(i learnt this the hard way ).get the v2 rear suspension if ur kit is the older one.n of course,put thread lock to all the metal to metal connection(i noe this is lame )
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Old 01-28-2006, 08:38 AM   #8659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe
Hello Gents

I am usually an electric tourer racer, but i have been provided with a Nitro TC3 kit to build and run at a large meeting coming up in Sydaey Australia, i have little experience with Nitro, and even less with the NTC3, is there anything required to run the car successfuly that is not included in the box?


Anything else important i should know about building and running this car?

Thanks in advance

Bradd Vercoe
Is it Factory team kit.. or standard kit?

You may need 3 shoes flywheel, 3 shoes clutch, copper clutch spring, different gear ratio, different shock springs, dual chamber tune pipe ... etc. Other than that you can use those from the box..
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Old 01-28-2006, 03:52 PM   #8660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe
Hello Gents

I am usually an electric tourer racer, but i have been provided with a Nitro TC3 kit to build and run at a large meeting coming up in Sydaey Australia, i have little experience with Nitro, and even less with the NTC3, is there anything required to run the car successfuly that is not included in the box?


Anything else important i should know about building and running this car?

Thanks in advance

Bradd Vercoe
Hey Brad
To get a bit more durability into the NTC3 theres a few things it needs ...
* the drive cups (which the main shaft connects into) i upgraded to aluminium....the plastic ones eventually shattered.
* A side chassis brace is handy....this runs between the pipe and the chassis......in the event of a side on hit it prevents the pipe being forced inwards and shattering the fuel tank.
* "The Fix"...this uses longer bolts to secure the front shock tower to the diff case......if you hit something front on with the stock screws it`ll strip the shock tower screws out of the diff case. The Fix runs right thru the cases so it wont strip out.
You should find the NTC3 will be a VERY competitive car at EC.....see ya out there
Cheers Andy
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Old 01-29-2006, 08:47 AM   #8661
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good luck guys..
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Old 01-29-2006, 02:59 PM   #8662
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Hi Guys

Yeah its a V2 FT kit.
This "Fix" is that running an additional 2 long bolts through the large holes straight down into the lower diff case?

I will see if the importers have the 3 shoe clutch and different clutch springs.
I ran the older V1 car on the weekend, and it was ok, but i couldnt find a balance between stability and steering. I think a big part of this issue was caused by the rear Diff, i am used to electric cars where the diff action is quite free, but the forward drive is pretty much locked, with the NTC3 diff it feels like the totally opposite, the diff action is tight and there is barely any forward drive, it feels like the slipper pad is preventing the diff balls from getting a good purchase on the diff rings. any suggestions? or is that how it is meant to be?
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Old 01-29-2006, 04:27 PM   #8663
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I am using an electric style diff in the back of my car (ie. no slipper pad) and I like it, it gives we way more steering especially out of corners as the diff is alot more free than the pad equiped diff, gave me some more turn in steering as well since the rear diff isn't trying to push the car straight ahead.
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Old 01-29-2006, 06:15 PM   #8664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe
Hi Guys

Yeah its a V2 FT kit.
This "Fix" is that running an additional 2 long bolts through the large holes straight down into the lower diff case?

?
Yep thats right....."the fix" used to be sold on ebay, but apparently its becoming hard to get now. I was told that if you can`t get the fix, then a couple of 33mm screws should do the trick.
Another thing to consider when racing at EC is using a locked front diff......Ric Bartolozzi used one in his RRR in finishing 2nd last year. I cant comment on how a locked front diff works there as i`ve always been happy running a one way....but if you can get a hold of one, it may be worth experimenting with.
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Old 01-29-2006, 06:21 PM   #8665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe
Hi Guys


I think a big part of this issue was caused by the rear Diff, i am used to electric cars where the diff action is quite free, but the forward drive is pretty much locked, with the NTC3 diff it feels like the totally opposite, the diff action is tight and there is barely any forward drive, it feels like the slipper pad is preventing the diff balls from getting a good purchase on the diff rings. any suggestions? or is that how it is meant to be?
How tight was the rear diff Brad?.....i used to set my NTC3 at 1/2 turn out for EC and found that served me well.
Going by some of the setup sheets (www.teamassociated.com) Barry Baker and co are running either 1/2 or 1/8 turn out on the rear diff.
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Old 01-29-2006, 07:47 PM   #8666
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i dont know how far it was backed out (not my car), but i do know i would not have gone tighter as it would have virtually made the rear end into a spool. the troubling thing is the lack of forward drive, there is no way i would drive my electric car like that.

I considered getting a electric style ball diff for the rear. would all i need to do is swap out the noisy diff gear for a electric diff gear?

Every time i have tried either a front diff or a spool, the car has felt good, but the lap times are just ridiculously slow, i am not much of a brake user anyway so i will most likely stick with a one way.
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Old 01-30-2006, 12:23 AM   #8667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Besercoe
I considered getting a electric style ball diff for the rear. would all i need to do is swap out the noisy diff gear for a electric diff gear?

.
Hmm not sure....maybe a ball diff out of a TC4 may drop in? (Jap TC4 maybe able to help you out with that)......would there be much difference between an electric ball diff and the ball diff thats in it?
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Old 01-30-2006, 12:29 AM   #8668
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All you need to do is use the crowngear from a TC3/4 instead of the NTC3 one, thats all there is to it.

The NTC3 crown gear has a friction pad at the centre of it that gives the diff the tight feeling
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Old 01-30-2006, 01:22 PM   #8669
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THE FIX you can email jason at http://bmiracing.com and ask him where to get them now
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Old 01-30-2006, 02:55 PM   #8670
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Can somebody please post a pic of what you guys refer to as the fix? from what i understand it is simply two long bolts going into the oversized access holes in the tower, screwing down into the lower bulkhead screw holes.
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