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Old 01-24-2006, 01:18 AM   #8641
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The pivot balls are mounted in the end of the arms on both suspensions....you use them to adjust the toe on the rear, and on the front end theyre used for adjusting camber.
Yep, the hinge pins are what the suspension arms move on.
From what i understand, in the manufacturing process there`s slight tolerance differences, and this results in the diff cases being a tight in some instances. I`ve done this mod and it worked quite well, but just make sure you dont take off too much material......better a little less than too much
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Old 01-24-2006, 03:26 AM   #8642
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I'm a stickler for free suspension, and I guess I was fortunate, but my first gen 2 speed team kit has marvelously free suspension. When I moved to V2, I did notice a lot more stiffness around the rear suspension, but I worked that as free as I could with some graphite powder in the pivot ball cups.

I definitely didn't need to polish the front though. It was as free as I could possibly ever want.
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Old 01-24-2006, 08:08 AM   #8643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
Excellent posts....great hints Jap TC3.
I didnt know that there were extra AE ratios available besides the ones listed.....i found my FT NTC3 to be undergeared when racing at the Moorebank track here.....it would hit peak RPM about half way down the straight and really cried out for more gearing.
I also found the aluminium front cvds didnt like this track too much either....i actually sheared one clean in half at peak RPM down the main straight
I noticed from your pics youre running a 3 shoe clutch...is that the AE one or aftermarket?
Cheers
The 3 shoes clutch is from AE.. I cut the clutch shoes and install with copper (stiffer) clutch springs..
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Old 01-24-2006, 08:14 AM   #8644
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Quote:
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There was a tip in here quite a while ago that drilling a 1/64" hole in the clutch shoes will also help give it some better kick out of the corners.......i`d never tried it but would be interested to know how much affect this actually had on performance.
That is one way of lightening the clutch shoes.. it will let the clutch engage at higher rpm... but if you are using 3 shoes flywheel u will face the problem installing the shoes.. the clutch shoes overlapping each other..

The best is to cut the shoes shorter so that it can rest very close to the crank shaft (clutch centre) and reduce tension to the clutch spring in idle, thus allow building higher rpm before clutch engagement..
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Old 01-24-2006, 08:32 AM   #8645
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
Now I know why you're still running your NTC3 and keeping the RRR... Wicked mods!
Well.. tommi.. you know that NTC3 still fast at our track..
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Old 01-24-2006, 09:09 AM   #8646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jap TC3
Well.. tommi.. you know that NTC3 still fast at our track..
It was, and it still IS...and THAT is very well known too all who has driven and known the car well. Too bad, look at what our local market has done to it, of which I've to admit that it's inevitable that such things will surely happen, given how OLD the car is and how many new breeds are currently in the market.
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Old 01-24-2006, 04:51 PM   #8647
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Unfortunately Sydney`s local market hasnt done the NTC3 any favours either.....its very hard, if not impossible, to buy any parts over the counter at your LHS....most parts will have to come from overseas.
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Old 01-24-2006, 06:25 PM   #8648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
Unfortunately Sydney`s local market hasnt done the NTC3 any favours either.....its very hard, if not impossible, to buy any parts over the counter at your LHS....most parts will have to come from overseas.
Cheers
not anymore
the new distributors are making a huge effort to bring back associated to what it once was.the old distributor didnt push the product or promote it and after a while people switched to other cars because of cheaper replacement parts and availability.
at the moment there may be a slight down time because of the change of stock from the old distributor to the new but after that parts will be easier to get and cheaper.

if anyone wants more info pm me
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Old 01-25-2006, 12:27 AM   #8649
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In Kuala Lumpur, it is not very bad... U still can easily get the parts from TP-Racing.. but Kyosho & mugen put up a lot of effort to conquer KL market..

It's good to racer.. choice is yours..

My experience with NTC3... little modification will make the car super fast.. no need to spend on new brand...
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Old 01-25-2006, 02:10 PM   #8650
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JapTC3, do you find you have to use very low shore (soft) foam tires to keep traction on the Nitro TC3? What shore do you use front and back? I've had a lot of issues with traction lately.
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Old 01-25-2006, 05:08 PM   #8651
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When racing the NTC3 here....i usually found either 40 or 37 shore tyres were the go.
If youre having traction probs...try 35`s on the rear....if youre still having probs then you`ll have to consider setup changes....springs, oil, etc which will all help.
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Old 01-25-2006, 05:49 PM   #8652
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aphinity
JapTC3, do you find you have to use very low shore (soft) foam tires to keep traction on the Nitro TC3? What shore do you use front and back? I've had a lot of issues with traction lately.
Depending on track..
usually I'm running on Speedmind 37 shore front & rear, sometimes Speedmind 35F with 37R.

If Fast tyre or Jaco it will be 40R with 37F..

On race day.. I like Speedmind 35F + 37R and play around with diff setting to get good traction.. Not much different from RRR or 710.. they r running quite similar tyre combination at our local track..
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Old 01-25-2006, 09:49 PM   #8653
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jap TC3
Depending on track..
usually I'm running on Speedmind 37 shore front & rear, sometimes Speedmind 35F with 37R.

If Fast tyre or Jaco it will be 40R with 37F..

On race day.. I like Speedmind 35F + 37R and play around with diff setting to get good traction.. Not much different from RRR or 710.. they r running quite similar tyre combination at our local track..
That's right around the range I figured. So, you alter your diff setting a lot to give you better traction, huh? I find my car likes to slide the rear end out a lot, but it might be my driving style too. I've tried all the usual things like shock angle, droop, camber, sway bars and springs/oil.

I've never played with the diff settings to alter traction. I'll have to try that. Thanks!
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Old 01-26-2006, 05:26 PM   #8654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aphinity
That's right around the range I figured. So, you alter your diff setting a lot to give you better traction, huh? I find my car likes to slide the rear end out a lot, but it might be my driving style too. I've tried all the usual things like shock angle, droop, camber, sway bars and springs/oil.

I've never played with the diff settings to alter traction. I'll have to try that. Thanks!
.. loosen rear diff and tighten front diff will give U more rear traction.. but too much of this will make the car understeer...
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Old 01-28-2006, 12:37 AM   #8655
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If you like to try... my usual weekend setup..
Attached Thumbnails
Rc10ntc3-ntc3setup2.jpg  
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