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Old 01-18-2006, 04:07 PM   #8596
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The RTR NTC3 is a very good car....if i was going to purchase a car to run in pullstart class this would be one of my first choices
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Old 01-18-2006, 04:08 PM   #8597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
yeah it looks like i might have to start doing that when im coming out of corners although i have tried a few different things now
Have you tried experimenting with the throttle expo on your radio?....turning it down into the negative may help tame things a little.
Cheers
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:07 PM   #8598
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robertm: i would consider getting some imperial allen wrenches and nut drivers.
i have got the factory ntc3 and i find it better than the g4 i used to run.it hugs the corners a lot better.
one thing i would do is get another packet of the rear turnbuckle eyelets and eyelet balls and replace the front ballends on the steering blocks with the eyelets and put a screw and nut through it to hold it on (exactly like the rear upper camber links) so that they don't pop off.it also helps to put a washer on top of it too to stop it popping off.

also since you have some electric background you should know how to assemble and dis-assemble the rear ball diff.This should be done roughly every month.depending on how often you race it.
other than that i find its a great car and still keeps up with the newer cars like rrr and serpents and mtx-4's.
one thing i couldnt get used to coming from a belt driven car background was that the driveline is so free.i once put the car down in pit lane and started walking up the stairs onto the drivers stand and i was just bliping the throttle so the car wouldnt falme out and when i get up there my car rolled out of pit lane and was already in the sweeper lol

for the steering servo i had to use a g4 steering turnbucle to get the correct lenth so my servo horn would not touch the radio deck when i turned full lock left.it is much easier to center the servo horn on the servo when the turnbuckle is shorter.as a reference the servo saver should be directly under the main drive shaft and the servo horn on the servo is almost at a 30 degree angle pointing towards the center drive shaft.

oh also watch how far you wind the bottom eyelets onto the shock shafts because if you wind them on all the way then the shock does not have enogh length in it to allow the droop screws to bottom out on the chassis.i tightened the eyelets on all the way and then backed them out 4-5mm.

i have found it is a very easy car to work on because it doesnt use upright bulkheads as belt driven cars.also for some reason the car doesnt seem to get as dirtier and greasy like the other cars strange ????
anyone else notice this ?????
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:09 PM   #8599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
Have you tried experimenting with the throttle expo on your radio?....turning it down into the negative may help tame things a little.
Cheers
il try that aswell
oh have you looked at the weather report for tomorrow ???
at the moment its not looking that good. very cloudy
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Old 01-18-2006, 08:12 PM   #8600
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Originally Posted by fastrcracer
Anyone heard anything about Team Associated updating the NTC3 ?
i did hear that they are coming out with a new tourer but i dunno if its electric or nitro??
it may have been just a rumour
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Old 01-19-2006, 02:40 AM   #8601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
il try that aswell
oh have you looked at the weather report for tomorrow ???
at the moment its not looking that good. very cloudy
Yep ......hopefully the forecast holds true and it clears throughout the day, I really need to get some practice laps in and get this setup fine tuned.
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Old 01-19-2006, 02:45 AM   #8602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
i have found it is a very easy car to work on this ?????
Its a very well designed and thought out car....I`d be most interested when/if they bring out a new model as to where they`ll improve it......i guess building "the fix" into the car would be a major priority.
One thing that i really liked about the NTC3 is how well protected the receiver is....and i must say the servo`s are nice and accessible too compared to some other cars.
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Old 01-19-2006, 05:27 AM   #8603
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
Its a very well designed and thought out car....I`d be most interested when/if they bring out a new model as to where they`ll improve it......i guess building "the fix" into the car would be a major priority.
One thing that i really liked about the NTC3 is how well protected the receiver is....and i must say the servo`s are nice and accessible too compared to some other cars.
yes i have noticed this too.after tomorrow's practice tell me what your best time was and how you went.
when i raced there on a club day i was doing mid to low 13 seconds a lap and my best lap was 12.59 seconds.
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Old 01-19-2006, 05:53 AM   #8604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
but then why do the ofna gears which are 0.8 mesh with the standard ntc3 gears ????
32 pitch and 0.8 metric are very similar. If you convert 32 pitch in metric you will have 0.79375 .... it's very close.

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Old 01-19-2006, 07:47 AM   #8605
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hi guys me again I was wondering if anybody has looked at/has the ntc3 setup ebook from associated - I am asking as I would like to know if its worth it to get it from them, as due to my location it will take much time, effort, and expense for me to obtain it - v2 rear suspension edition preferred
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Old 01-19-2006, 08:30 AM   #8606
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Thanks guys. One more question. What part/parts are more prone to break on the car? Again thank you for your help.
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Old 01-19-2006, 09:16 AM   #8607
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Default ntc3 setup book

I guess you're talking about the tuning video. This video shows more of how to make adjustments and does not go into theory of how the adjustments effect the car. I got alot more use out of the XXXmain chassis tuning guide.
If you plan on racing I would get the XXXmain chassis guide. If you have trouble with basic adjustments and how to make them. Get the tuning cd-rom. Hope this helps
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Old 01-19-2006, 09:01 PM   #8608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobertM
Thanks guys. One more question. What part/parts are more prone to break on the car? Again thank you for your help.
I've broken a rear A-Arm on my original V1 suspension, as well as a rear hub. Since then I changed to version 2 suspension, I've had good luck and my parts have lasted me. Being a total nOOb with onroad, the most common thing I've broken are my rim sidewalls (and body.. hehe), but most of the rest of the car has stood up to my repeated punishment.

I hear the RPM plastic front bumper is a good investment as well. I bought myself a big reinforced foam bumper to replace the factory one as well, and this seems to help for front impacts.
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Old 01-20-2006, 03:21 AM   #8609
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yse i too have the xxxmain chasiss tuning guide and find it at times very helpful.
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Old 01-20-2006, 05:50 AM   #8610
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NTC 3 is a good car. it is still very competitive even with the latest car. BUT I think ae should have improve some of the key area that break or wear out easily.
front shock tower, with the fix build in
wheel bearing, perfer something like Serpent wheel bearing
at least 3 mm main chasis
front upper and lower arm, use RPM meterial
RPM front bumper is a must
centax clutch
any more idea?
This car was more than five years old, all other brand has introduce new model. 705 to 710 and new model is expecting before world race, v1r to v1rrr. mtx 3 to mtx 4..........well for ntc3 the most major improvement may be is the v2 rear suspention. come on ae, give us something new..........
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