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Old 01-15-2006, 03:25 PM   #8566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
yeah i raced there at fairy meadow today and made it in to the A final with the big boys.i was running the ntc3 but i couldnt find any rear traction
i was running 40f and 35r tires and im thinking of going to 32r.im using the greenspring in the rear and shocks are layed down with no swaybar. i just don't know what else to do ????
How are your droop settings? I never used the ntc3 at fairy meadow, but on the RRR 37shore fronts and rears are the go.....after a bit of racing the traction tends to come up at fairy meadow, so i`m guessing it`ll be a little bit higher come next saturday...especially if its dry on friday and theres plenty of practice laps put in.
Have you tried running softer shock oil?.....I`m gonna use 35weight this summernats in the RRR.
Cheers Andy
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Old 01-15-2006, 03:29 PM   #8567
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Originally Posted by wayne
amazing by the looks of this thread the ntc3 is getting into australia great -- I also struggle for rear traction and have as yet been unable to solve it <sigh> any suggestions let me know thanks guys I run rubber tyres
If you can use foams it`ll make a lot of difference to helping with rear traction....and front for that matter
Racing my ntc3 at eastern creek i always found either 40 shore or 37 shore were on the money in terms of grip.
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Old 01-15-2006, 03:34 PM   #8568
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Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
im using the one-way in the front.do you think i should try a ball diff in the front ????
I ran a one way at fairy meadow for the race meets leading up to the winternats, but ended up using a front spool.....i really found the braking useful, and it was more consistent with my style of driving.
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Old 01-16-2006, 01:57 AM   #8569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommi
He was using green springs and fighting for traction, copper springs are 13lbs. harder than the green ones my friend; he's gonna have a doughnut on the track I'm afraid.

Playing with spring rates is interesting. Going too soft does not necessarily mean you will get all the traction you want; on the other hand, going harder does not necessarily mean you will lose traction. Going too soft on the rear might cause traction roll or causing the car to break loose suddenly; harder springs could make the breaking of traction felt smoother...it all depends on the track condition. Happy experimenting!


ya loh.aiseh aiseh.embarassing liao
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:48 AM   #8570
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yes it is loose on power exiting a corner.

ajc13b: im running a sirio .12 evo 3 but soon to upgrade to a collari innotech.

i have now on the rear:
-no rear sway bar
-green springs
-35 tyres
-2.5 degrees toe-in
-shocks 40wt oil
-shocks mounted middle hole on shock tower


i did notice that as the day went on the track had more grip but its not enough.im running out of ideas.32 rear tyres are my last option.with this current setting i can drive thae car but i have to be careful comming out of a few corners because the car goes sideways.
im about one second off the top guys per lap.

tommi:if i stiffen the front springs it wont help because its out of corners that i need traction and all the weight goes to the rear.
if i increase rear droop it only sends weight to the front of the car when coming into the corners.

one thing i found interesting is that the hudy setup book and xxx-main setup book tell you that to get more grip on the rear you make rear upper arms more flatter.but the ntc3 instruction book tells you that the inner rear camber link should be mounted on the optional settings (lower holes) for more grip
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Old 01-16-2006, 07:58 AM   #8571
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I would make the rear camber link as long as possible (you'll get more chassis roll) increase the front droop (with more droop the chassis will lift more in the front causing more weight to transfer to the rear).last I would slightly raise my ride height to get more chassis roll.
Hope this helps
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:03 AM   #8572
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Also, don't forget to check the setting on your rear diff. If the car is a little loose upon exit, tighten the diff slightly. A good starting point is almost all the way tight and loosened 1/4 turn. Hope that helps.
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Old 01-16-2006, 03:41 PM   #8573
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Hooked on seems there wont be any shops in brisbane stocking AE gear soon as hobby one is now dropping the range as well.Which is a shame as i was thinking of picking up another Ntc3 for a bit of fun.
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Old 01-16-2006, 04:03 PM   #8574
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
yes it is loose on power exiting a corner.

ajc13b: im running a sirio .12 evo 3 but soon to upgrade to a collari innotech.

i have now on the rear:
-no rear sway bar
-green springs
-35 tyres
-2.5 degrees toe-in
-shocks 40wt oil
-shocks mounted middle hole on shock tower


i did notice that as the day went on the track had more grip but its not enough.im running out of ideas.32 rear tyres are my last option.with this current setting i can drive thae car but i have to be careful comming out of a few corners because the car goes sideways.
im about one second off the top guys per lap.

tommi:if i stiffen the front springs it wont help because its out of corners that i need traction and all the weight goes to the rear.
if i increase rear droop it only sends weight to the front of the car when coming into the corners.

one thing i found interesting is that the hudy setup book and xxx-main setup book tell you that to get more grip on the rear you make rear upper arms more flatter.but the ntc3 instruction book tells you that the inner rear camber link should be mounted on the optional settings (lower holes) for more grip
What camber angles were/are you running on the rear?.....you can go quite high at Fairy Meadow before you`ll find the grip youre after....as an example Chris Reade (who won the winternats A main there) was running -4.5 degrees rear camber on his MTX3.
Cheers Andy
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Old 01-16-2006, 06:23 PM   #8575
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on the rear the camber is -3 and on the front its -2. this is where my tyres wear flat.

Elliott hart: if i increase the length of the rear camber link, won't that give me positive camber ???

also i have already increased the front droop to 4mm.
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Old 01-16-2006, 06:24 PM   #8576
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oh and my diff setting on the rear is 1/2 out
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Old 01-16-2006, 11:15 PM   #8577
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
on the rear the camber is -3 and on the front its -2. this is where my tyres wear flat.

Elliott hart: if i increase the length of the rear camber link, won't that give me positive camber ???

also i have already increased the front droop to 4mm.
Run the rear camber setting so theres slight coning...the front wearing flat will be fine.
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Old 01-17-2006, 01:51 AM   #8578
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what effect does that give when its slightly coning ???
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Old 01-17-2006, 07:15 AM   #8579
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
on the rear the camber is -3 and on the front its -2. this is where my tyres wear flat.

Elliott hart: if i increase the length of the rear camber link, won't that give me positive camber ???

also i have already increased the front droop to 4mm.
Like what I and Elliott hart posted, you could INCREASE the length of the rear camber link, giving you a LOWERED roll center so that the rear end will roll MORE in the corners, giving you more grip. It will give you a positive camber, but you can always adjust the camber link to give you back the desired camber my friend.
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Old 01-17-2006, 07:20 AM   #8580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
yes it is loose on power exiting a corner.

ajc13b: im running a sirio .12 evo 3 but soon to upgrade to a collari innotech.

i have now on the rear:
-no rear sway bar
-green springs
-35 tyres
-2.5 degrees toe-in
-shocks 40wt oil
-shocks mounted middle hole on shock tower


i did notice that as the day went on the track had more grip but its not enough.im running out of ideas.32 rear tyres are my last option.with this current setting i can drive thae car but i have to be careful comming out of a few corners because the car goes sideways.
im about one second off the top guys per lap.

tommi:if i stiffen the front springs it wont help because its out of corners that i need traction and all the weight goes to the rear.
if i increase rear droop it only sends weight to the front of the car when coming into the corners.
Is that not what you want? You were suffering from a loose rear, of which is resulted from too much front steering and too little weight transfer to the rear. Stiffening up the front springs will take away some steering upfront, on the other hand stabilizing the rear; it will also shift the weight to the rear, which will give MORE traction to the rear. With a one-way, most of the time when I change my front springs to stiffer ones, I managed to tame the rear, and I always gain on-power stability doing that.
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