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Old 11-07-2005, 06:39 AM   #8491
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I need some setup tips..I mainly do parking lot racing..I am running red springs with no sway bars front or rear..I have no idea what weight oil I am running..The problem is when I get on the throttle early exiting the turns it wants to spin out..I am running 35 shore front foams and 40 shore rear foams..I really don't know what to try...


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Old 11-07-2005, 09:01 AM   #8492
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Originally Posted by markallen
I need some setup tips..I mainly do parking lot racing..I am running red springs with no sway bars front or rear..I have no idea what weight oil I am running..The problem is when I get on the throttle early exiting the turns it wants to spin out..I am running 35 shore front foams and 40 shore rear foams..I really don't know what to try...

Thanks,
Mark
It seems like you're having a low rear bite...I would suggest going 37 on rear tires. IMO, it's best not to "skip" shore rates for the front and rear tires. But before anything..IF you're comfortable with your tire selection of 35F 40R...what's your front and rear diff settings? I would first play with the diff settings, a tight front and loose rear, so that when on throttle, the car will get "pulled" by the front instead of get "pushed" by the rear. The stock diff setup is good to try, 1/4 front, 1/2 rear. Another solution is to either go for copper spring up front, or install a swaybar on the front end.
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Old 11-07-2005, 05:51 PM   #8493
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As mentioned in the previous post, a softer shore tyre would be the first option I`d be trying ....also as mentioned check your diff settings....wind the diff nut fully in and then back out 1/2 a turn on the rear diff....this is the stock setting. For more steering tighten it (although dont go fully tight), for less steering loosen it.
A couple of other options to try would include-
* Laying the rear shocks down more (top mounting in a lower position)
* More rear negative camber
* Check your shock oil.....if its too heavy in the rear, you wont get the rearwards weight transfer to give you decent grip.......go for something like a 40wt or 50wt oil.....40wt is the stock oil
* Consider softer rear springs......i had good results on a ashpalt parking lot surface using purple springs front and red rear.
* Also check your droop screws (front & rear)....make sure they`re at the stock setting and work from here.
Good luck
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Old 11-09-2005, 06:54 PM   #8494
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Default Integy Setup system

Is the integy setup system 2 better than the pnb setup station & will both work fine with the NTC3 or will I have to purchase any additional parts for the stations to work..
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Old 11-13-2005, 02:01 AM   #8495
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Hi Everyone.

I have a Savage 25. I want a nitro onroad car. Trying to decide between the EVO 3 RTR HPI or the Associated NTC3. I hear everyone saying that the Associated is great and fast but they are not talking about the RTR I don't think.

I don't have time to build a kit so I want the RTR. Is the RTR fast out of the box ? Does it handle well ? Does it come with the aluminum blue cassis ?

What I like about the HPI Evo RTR is that it comes with some aluminum already. But is it a fast car ? Handle nice ? I am NOT gonna race. Just fun on the streets and parking lots.

thank you for your replies.
Jason
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Old 11-13-2005, 04:44 AM   #8496
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Originally Posted by photoman
Hi Everyone.

I have a Savage 25. I want a nitro onroad car. Trying to decide between the EVO 3 RTR HPI or the Associated NTC3. I hear everyone saying that the Associated is great and fast but they are not talking about the RTR I don't think.

I don't have time to build a kit so I want the RTR. Is the RTR fast out of the box ? Does it handle well ? Does it come with the aluminum blue cassis ?

What I like about the HPI Evo RTR is that it comes with some aluminum already. But is it a fast car ? Handle nice ? I am NOT gonna race. Just fun on the streets and parking lots.

thank you for your replies.
Jason
Hi Jason,
If you're thinking about getting a RTR which is JUST gonna do FAST in a straight line, u can pretty well just get any car, and put in a FAST engine; and it will definitely go fast on the straight; but not quite so at the corners and chicane with just "any" car.

Comparing the 2 cars u mentioned, both are equipped with a .15 engine, so speed wise, it's not gonna differ much. Anyway, I'm definitely gonna recommend the NTC3 over the HPI. To answer your questions, yes it is fast out-of-box, yes it comes with the blue aluminium chassis, and a BIG BIG YES to the car's handling! The Associated NTC3 is not just a normal car, it's a race-proven car, so u can expect this thing to go as fast as you want, as long as you bolt on the right powerplant to the chassis. The handling of this car is just wonderful, very user friendly to newbies, and the experts love it too. U can't go wrong with the NTC3. The only downside of the NTC3 is...some find it a little bit too fragile to their liking. Not to me tho... But hell, no car is perfect.

Comparing both, the Evo will just lose out on the handling. And I do not think that the Evo will gonna be friendly on future upgrades/hop-ups and parts availability. Check out the parts availability in your area before jumping on a decision.

IF you're just gonna be plain happy with any RTR on-road that go fast, either car will do for you. But think about the QUALITY of a car, the NTC3 will definitely win hands-down. I'm still running the NTC3 and will still be racing it.
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Old 11-13-2005, 04:57 AM   #8497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEWY078
Is the integy setup system 2 better than the pnb setup station & will both work fine with the NTC3 or will I have to purchase any additional parts for the stations to work..
Both will work fine with the NTC3. I've seen the PMB, and I did not like the PMB's material quality. Between Hudy, Integy and PMB, I would rate Hudy the first, Integy second and PMB the last.
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Old 11-13-2005, 07:37 PM   #8498
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Thanks tommi I think I am going to go with the integy setup system.. Hudy is really expensive. I can spend that extra money on the car
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Old 11-17-2005, 03:33 PM   #8499
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I have never ran on road nitro before but have raced on road electric for a few years and was wanting to know if this car even has a chance against a V1RRR or a Mugen MTX-4 I have a MBX-5 and love it. I wan't a strait forward answer, I don't want to run really funny setups or have to do mods to the car. Is t it competitive eneough? I am a very expierienced on road driver and know a lot about car setup and such but I don't know what is hot for nitro. please help
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Old 11-17-2005, 03:54 PM   #8500
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On a small or carpark type track the NTC3 is the right car. If you are racing on fast long tracks you will still be competitve but you will work harder than if you had a RRR, 710 or MTX4. I still have a NTC3 to use at smaller tracks & the 710 comes out to play on larger tracks.
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Old 11-18-2005, 05:08 PM   #8501
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I`ve raced both FT NTC3 and the RRR.
I agree with what SOC says....the NTC3 is a very competitive car on the short/medium tracks......on larger tracks cars like the RRR`s, Serpent 710`s and the MTX 3 & 4`s are gonna prove a handful for the NTC3.
One other aspect of the RRR that i prefer to the NTC3 is that ( in my opinion) out of the box, the RRR has been more durable.
When racing my NTC3 i had to add "the fix", a side chassis brace, & aluminium drive cups to help increase durability on the NTC3.
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Old 11-18-2005, 10:28 PM   #8502
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Thanks Andy, that helps alot, I would be racing on a big purpose built track and all. What would be better the RRR or MRX4. Or is it just driver prefrance? I like a smooth car that has lots of adjustments and can be twitchy if I want it to be. What is funner in your opinion 1/10 scale or 1/8th scale. Money is not an object it this case but it is at the checkout stand...eh?
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Old 11-19-2005, 03:15 PM   #8503
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Any of the good belt cars MTX4, RRR or 710 will be good on a big layout. I personaly like the 710 but it is all down to personal choice. 1/8th scale is a lot of fun & I prefer it to 1/10. The only pitfall for the 1/8th is racing opertunities are more limited (a lot of races in AU are 1/10 tourer only)
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Old 11-19-2005, 04:40 PM   #8504
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I think the deciding factor between the MTX4 & RRR would be parts availability in your local area.....if the parts availability is similar, then I`d be buying the car in which you could get the best deal....in this case it`d probably be cheaper to get the RRR as its been out longer and prices have dropped over the past year. The newer MTX4 may take a little while for prices to come down a little.....although the MTX3 still held its value very well even though it`d been out for quite a long time.
The NTC3 seems to have very good parts availability in the USA which is another nice bonus if you decide to go with it.
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Old 11-19-2005, 05:46 PM   #8505
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to add another car to the mix...how about the HPI R40 Hara Edition?
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