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Old 10-24-2005, 10:18 AM   #8476
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Pushing and Chassis Adjustment

I'm running a pretty much stock NTC3 with an OS 12TR, LD pipe, 37 shore foams front and rear, Mazda 6 with full rear spoiler - red springs and 50wt shock oil. fast Hitec servos and standard heigth and chassis set up per the instructions

On a school asphalt lot, the car pushes to the wall and I reall have to get out of it to make the turn, it just keeps going straight.

I hit full brakes to initiate the turn and then get back on the power, but this is a sloppy driving technique.

I finished 3rd yesterday running against two nitros and 5 electric TC3s w/19 turns, they had the infield and I owned the straight.

Any suggestions to get it to turn, other than get out of the throttle? - I'm used to driving electric where they really steer on power and want the same.
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Old 10-24-2005, 04:21 PM   #8477
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If you have a front one way take it out and put in a diff.

Use 12 degrees caster.

Try thicker oil in the rear.

And dial in TONS of drag brake!
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Old 10-24-2005, 04:44 PM   #8478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati-Rider
I'm running a pretty much stock NTC3 with an OS 12TR, LD pipe, 37 shore foams front and rear, Mazda 6 with full rear spoiler - red springs and 50wt shock oil. fast Hitec servos and standard heigth and chassis set up per the instructions

On a school asphalt lot, the car pushes to the wall and I reall have to get out of it to make the turn, it just keeps going straight.

I hit full brakes to initiate the turn and then get back on the power, but this is a sloppy driving technique.

I finished 3rd yesterday running against two nitros and 5 electric TC3s w/19 turns, they had the infield and I owned the straight.

Any suggestions to get it to turn, other than get out of the throttle? - I'm used to driving electric where they really steer on power and want the same.

OK a couple of things to try.

1)-Try a little less rear toe in, maybe 2deg instead of the standard 3.

2)-Try 40shore rear tyres, I run 37front/40rear on our asphalt track anything else just pushes too much.

3)-Try moving the wing on your body forward 5-10mm, this will only work on fast corners though.

4)-One thing plenty of people are doing is to run the electric crown gear in the rear diff as opposed to the nitro one, the nitro one has the slipper pad in it's centre, I gained soooooo much steering using this it wasn't funny.

5)-Finally this is a mod my team-mate and myself have done, either using washers or a small aluminium plate about 1mm thick under the front mount of the rear arms to give the rear some anti-squat.
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Old 10-25-2005, 01:41 AM   #8479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati-Rider
Any suggestions to get it to turn, other than get out of the throttle? - .
If youre running a blade type front sway bar- lay it flatter to get better turn-in.
Try a thicker rear sway bar.
Try some more camber on the front tyres.....start at around 2 degrees and add a little from here and see what affect it has.
Try the rear ride height a little higher than the front height...eg. 5mm front and then 5.5 or 6mm rear.
Try laying the front shocks down a bit (go to an inner hole) to soften the front suspension.
Try standing the rear shocks up a little.
Theres lots of various things to try and these are just a handful that will help......as mentioned previously, going to a softer front tyre will also help a great deal....and the rear toe-in of around 2 degrees will help also.
Cheers
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Old 10-27-2005, 10:28 AM   #8480
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Default Removing gears from clutch bell

How do you guys unscrew worn out gears off the clutch bell. It's time to replace the set and they are twisted on pretty tight.

I'm ok with grabbing the gears with a wrench, but how do you protect the bell to run another day?

thanks
bill
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Old 10-27-2005, 05:14 PM   #8481
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The best way to get the pinion gears on and off the clutch bell is to use a pinion tool.
This negates the need for any threadlock and makes it much easier to change them in future.
The Mugen Pinion tool seems quite adaptable to a variety of cars...it just needs a different sized centre allen screw to get the adequate depth to fit thru various clutch bells.
Its available online from places like rcsquare.com etc....and from memory retails for around $25US
Cheers
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Old 10-28-2005, 11:31 PM   #8482
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Default Screws

Are there any aftermarket companies that make replacement screw for the NTC3 the stock ones are crap and I strip mine all the time...
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Old 10-29-2005, 12:02 AM   #8483
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Try-
www.rcscrewz.com
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Old 10-29-2005, 12:08 AM   #8484
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Thansk andy
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Old 10-31-2005, 01:45 PM   #8485
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Default Ver. 2 Suspenison

Where can i get the version 2 suspension. I was out bashing and broke the front left wheel off. Pivot Ball snapped an Half and the bottom one pulled right out of the steering hub. SO I figure just upgrade the whole suspension while i am at it. Can anyone recommend what parts to change out so i strengthen the car too. Thanks guys
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Old 10-31-2005, 05:55 PM   #8486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati-Rider
How do you guys unscrew worn out gears off the clutch bell. It's time to replace the set and they are twisted on pretty tight.

I'm ok with grabbing the gears with a wrench, but how do you protect the bell to run another day?

thanks
bill
Someone showed me a great way to do it with a peice of thin wire. Get some thin wire, i forget exactly what my friend was using, but you thread it through the vent hole in the clutch bell, and twist it around itself. Grab the wire with a pair of pliers and the gear with a wrench, and twist against each other.
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Old 11-02-2005, 10:01 AM   #8487
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Default engine tuning

need help tuning engine

when the car is cold & i start it up the car will not hookup when i give it gas (until the engine warms up a little). once it gets going it is fine except the car does not seem as fast as it should be. my brother has a ntc3 rtr & i have the rtr+. mine should be faster w the bigger engine, yet it isnt - how do i fix this problem???

thanks for your help
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Old 11-02-2005, 06:13 PM   #8488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEWY078
Where can i get the version 2 suspension. I was out bashing and broke the front left wheel off. Pivot Ball snapped an Half and the bottom one pulled right out of the steering hub. SO I figure just upgrade the whole suspension while i am at it. Can anyone recommend what parts to change out so i strengthen the car too. Thanks guys
If you cant get the V2 rear end thru your local hobby shop, then go straight to Team Associated and order it online....their shipping worldwide is fast-
www.teamassociated.com
To strengthen the car-
* get "the fix" for the front end
* a side chassis brace
* aluminium drive cups for the main shaft

Cheers
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Old 11-02-2005, 06:16 PM   #8489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spaceman spiff
need help tuning engine

when the car is cold & i start it up the car will not hookup when i give it gas (until the engine warms up a little). once it gets going it is fine except the car does not seem as fast as it should be. my brother has a ntc3 rtr & i have the rtr+. mine should be faster w the bigger engine, yet it isnt - how do i fix this problem???

thanks for your help
By "not hooking up" do you mean theres no rear traction?....this could be tyre temperature.
For engine tuning info try-
www.cefx.net
Cheers
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Old 11-04-2005, 03:13 PM   #8490
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the tires have traction it is just the engine powersup but just doesnt put the power to wheels
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