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Old 08-23-2005, 12:53 PM   #8386
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I would try the RD Logics Turbo pipe. And for the gearing i'm already 27/48 on the second speed so I could not go higher. But if I could gain some more RPM the top speed will increase, actually my X12 Rody seem to be restrict by the pipe and it can not make all the rpm it should be able to.


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Old 08-23-2005, 02:03 PM   #8387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
If you can pick up a MUGEN Centax....that might be your weapon, I have tried 21/28 and 22/29 (max).........crazy fast on the straight, but ONLY if the straight is long enough to let the 28 or 29T kicks in.....our track, 21/27 is tall enough, or I will never have the length to use the 28 or 29T 2nd gear...

Give it a shot...
Hummmm a Mugen centax

Another thing that I will have to buy and try... But what do you think will be the minimum lenght of the straight to be able to use the 28T and 29T.

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Old 08-24-2005, 07:36 AM   #8388
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I would have to agree with Rookie Solara on the clutch. I don't think it will help you much on the top end, but a centax style clutch is so versatile and so reliable. You can set it to launch hard and you don't have to tinker with clutch kits, springs, and custom clutch trimming to make it happen.

I'm not sure about the minimum straight, but I would say somewhere aroung 200 ft. or more depending on how it leads in. You could run some fairly tall 2nd gear if the track is layed out with the sweeper leading onto the straight instead of being at the end. A big lead-in sweeper will almost let you hit 2nd gear right at the exit of the sweeper then you're wide open all the way down the backstraight except for the last 10-15ft for braking. That's a lot of room on most tracks to run in 2nd gear.
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:09 AM   #8389
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anyone using Tamiya TRF shocks on their ntc3's???im thinking of buying them.just wondering what do u think of using it on the ntc3.it seems everyone loves the shocks,as i never heard a bad comment about them,so u guys comments are much appreciated.
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Old 08-26-2005, 08:59 AM   #8390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry sturchio
I'm not sure about the minimum straight, but I would say somewhere aroung 200 ft. or more depending on how it leads in. You could run some fairly tall 2nd gear if the track is layed out with the sweeper leading onto the straight instead of being at the end. A big lead-in sweeper will almost let you hit 2nd gear right at the exit of the sweeper then you're wide open all the way down the backstraight except for the last 10-15ft for braking. That's a lot of room on most tracks to run in 2nd gear.
Our track have a sweeper leading onto the long straight, so I think I could gear a little bit taller. I will have to try this Mugen centax....
http://www.rcpikeriver.com/Notre%20piste.htm

And is the Mugen fine pitch is realy the same thing as the NTC3 stock pitch ?


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Old 08-26-2005, 11:10 AM   #8391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrazyRonny
Our track have a sweeper leading onto the long straight, so I think I could gear a little bit taller. I will have to try this Mugen centax....
http://www.rcpikeriver.com/Notre%20piste.htm

And is the Mugen fine pitch is realy the same thing as the NTC3 stock pitch ?


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Technically, NO....the 0.8 module of the Mugen (oh, yeah, make sure you get the 0.8 pitch gears instead of the regular).......is a very very small different then the US spec pitch like NTC3 used, but I used it, so does a lot of ppl...and it does work OK...
The Mugen clutch ran about $45, then a 21/28 or 22/29 pinion are like $10 each...so for about $85, you will have a little bit talled pinion (21/28) and a absolutely tallest (22/29) for your NTC3 2 try....
I ran my 22/29 (with stock 54/48) at a track called ACO at HK that is designed for 1/8th and 1/5th racing (280-300 feet straight I think) by using an modified outlaw OS 18TZ motor..........car cannot even turn (too much torque and speed) but on the straight, i can pull right with those MRX3 and 950R 1/8th cars....except, way too fast that the brake cannot even slow the car down several times...

Overall, 22/29 is FUN to see ONLY if your track is HUGH, I don't feel that is useable at all (you will never hit that high of the T and RPM)....however, 21/28 is very FAST gear for some high end engine, like your Rody X12....200 feet straight is a absolute minumum.....
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Old 08-26-2005, 09:44 PM   #8392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Technically, NO....the 0.8 module of the Mugen (oh, yeah, make sure you get the 0.8 pitch gears instead of the regular).......is a very very small different then the US spec pitch like NTC3 used, but I used it, so does a lot of ppl...and it does work OK......

however, 21/28 is very FAST gear for some high end engine, like your Rody X12....200 feet straight is a absolute minumum.....
I love the .8 module gears. It doesn't seem like much, but it allows quite a bit more gearing options, especially when it comes to spacing 1st and 2nd so you can keep a fairly high ratio on first for great corner acceleration and gear the hell out of the top for long straights.

I certainly agree that a Rody mod or any decent mod/outlaw engine needs more leg room than 200 ft, your track has a fairly short "straight" section, but if they ran dual sweepers instead of the hairpin at the end, I think it would accomodate aggressive gearing on a mod engine. As long as you can get it to hit 2nd coming off the first corner, I think there is room to use 2nd gear. You may not squeeze all the ponies out of it, but you can certainly gear it down a bit.
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Old 08-26-2005, 11:43 PM   #8393
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Rookie- how is the gear mesh with a 21/28 setup? I thought you are supposed to run the same tooth spread on the pinions that you are running on the spurs? If you are running 48/54 then shouldn't you have a 22/28 pinion setup?
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Old 08-27-2005, 08:54 PM   #8394
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Sorry guys for off the topic. Maybe someone needs extra car, I'm selling my car if anybody interested can clik the link in my signature. thanks!
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Old 08-27-2005, 09:39 PM   #8395
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Done forget about the Ofna Power Clutch. It's .8 pitch and bolts on without any mods. I brought mine about 1 year ago and its still pulling strong.
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Old 08-28-2005, 06:30 AM   #8396
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Hey Guys, how do i get the two speed to kick in quicker? tried adjusting the screws, but doesent seem to make a difference
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Old 08-28-2005, 06:37 AM   #8397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara

Last year, I went to some Hobby town club race, to help a friend to tune his stock RTR version 1 NTC3 (everything stock)......only put a set of foam tires, no other bling bling and ran 1 qualifer for him, jumped from D main to B-main........proved to him that NTC3 RTR can be GOOD....just not good enough for A-main.........he was thinking to sell his NTC3 RTR and get the Serpent 710....untill I stopped him cause I proved to him that RTR can be fast, as long as you know setup secret and know how to drive..........

Get the NTC3 RTR plus kit...........$300...done.

How much do you want to bet Barry Baker can beat anyone of us here with a NTC3 RTR Plus in any giving day and location...? Give him a set of foams and I don't think I can even hang with him more then 10 minutes.
I agree with Rookie Solara

Get the RTR+. we proved recently at a local trophy race at www.fastcats.ca that NTC3 RTR+ is race ready in bone stock (btw, this is the only car they allowed to race with .12). We broke it in one just the nite before. We didn't even change anything on all 3 qualifiers, just put on foams, my radio, rx battery, and went at it. We finished all qualifiers. The 2 speed finally kicked in the 3rd and have A-Main pace. It qualified A-Main 7th and finished 7th and displaced a lot of A-main regulars with V-One-RRR, Mugen MTX3, Serpent 710 and these ppl spent over CAD$2000 in cars. Only at the A-Main, we changed to faster servo, and harder F/R springs and my driving was more conservative as we are there to prove a point that NTC3 RTR+ is A-Main finish material.

The real funny thing is i have to hide the car under the driver stand and pull start it every time. cos, as i don't have a starter box and didn't intend to bring it, cos i know my stuff, being a hobby store owner, and for me, i have confidence with the car and it will work properly, even without a starter box. We borrowed one for the A-Main.

For the record, we are the only RTR to qualify and finished A-Main, We are the only pull start, side exhaust engine that is A-MAIN and FINISHED A-MAIN

We kept telling customers it is race-ready and it's cheap, case proven to them !! For beginners and intermediate racers, highly recommended. For serious racers, they can have a lot more variety of choices.

BUY ACCORDING TO YOUR LHS SUPPORT and BUDGET !!
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Old 08-30-2005, 08:31 PM   #8398
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Default caster shims

anyone ever have these just fall out or am i lucky, i was just breaking in the motor and i just happen to notice it on the ground. any trick to make sure it dosnt fall out in the future?
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Old 08-31-2005, 12:37 PM   #8399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justaneon
anyone ever have these just fall out or am i lucky, i was just breaking in the motor and i just happen to notice it on the ground. any trick to make sure it dosnt fall out in the future?
What exactly are you talking about falling out..?
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Old 08-31-2005, 01:17 PM   #8400
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I think he talk about the caster shim , it's write in the title of is post.

It never appen to me, maybe they was just not clip all the way into the axle?

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