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Old 08-10-2005, 12:30 PM   #8341
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as i said though im not going to be racing almost at all. and if i am its street or parking lot racing. no big time stuff. but i probably will be starting a neighborhood leage of my own mabee in a year or 2 i will race. but not any time too soon. so giveing that info do you still think i should go with the NTC3. and i want to hop it up a bunch so i can get some good speed and handleing out of it. so i want some thing i can F*** arround with but still also be able to get serious and race with.
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Old 08-10-2005, 12:59 PM   #8342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cars.cars.cars
as i said though im not going to be racing almost at all. and if i am its street or parking lot racing. no big time stuff. but i probably will be starting a neighborhood leage of my own mabee in a year or 2 i will race. but not any time too soon. so giveing that info do you still think i should go with the NTC3. and i want to hop it up a bunch so i can get some good speed and handleing out of it. so i want some thing i can F*** arround with but still also be able to get serious and race with.
No, not TK-NTC3, get the NTC3 RTR plus....then when you are ready to race, then you will have to hop it up a bunch so you can get some good speed and handling out of it..........that means $$$$$

I wish there is a car $300 with radio and engine, good enough for bashing, and perfect enough for racing national.......when you find that car, let me know.
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Old 08-10-2005, 01:26 PM   #8343
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For $300 + Shipping I can sell you that, and believe me it's better than any RTR and if you choose the FR12 you dont need a starter box. If you want my opinion, NTC3 is a good and easy to work on car, and it as everything need to win an A-Main anywhere. I love the NTC3. I don't sell this one because I don't like it, but because I have two of them and I have to keep only one.

NTC3 Team Kit

a good .12 engine (a RB C12 or a Fantom FR12 pullstart).You choose the one you want

Airtronic Blazer Radio

Blue alumminum drive shaft

Blue aluminum threaded shocks

blue aluminum mip cvds

2 speed transmision

front anti roll bar

rear antiroll bar

Original rubber tire and wheel (note that the thread is worn of)

A used set of GQ 40 shore tire (used but still good)

And all the spare parts that you see in the picture.

The bottom is scratch from the race because I only used it at the track but that's normal.

Could include the NSX body if you want, the plastic is in good shape but the guy who painted it certainly used the wrong type of paint because it peel of a bit in the front.

Could also put the shock spring combination you want if you have any preference. Actually it's the purple in front with the copper color one in the back. It's a good setup where I race.

The Pics:
http://pages.videotron.com/crazyron/...ery/index.html

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Old 08-10-2005, 08:07 PM   #8344
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I have 2 NTC3's and I race them at the big races around USA. That said, if you were to go to your local race track, I bet that you would be able to buy one from somebody, who has switched to a Mugen or Serpent for alot less money. Make sure they give you the manuals. So many NTC3's end up sitting on counters of workbenches in peoples garages because they can not sale them to anybody. It's a real real good car for racing and in the right hands, it will win A-mains. But now-a-days, I can not imagine anyone paying full price for FT kit. I could get a rolling chassis for about $100 dollars or less rightnow just because I know alot of people who have run the NTC3 and are not using it anymore and just want to clear some work space. I like the NTC3 because its so easy to work on and the parts are everywhere.
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Old 08-11-2005, 06:20 PM   #8345
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i am sure its been on here before but what size brgs do I need to clear up
the slop in my steering?
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Old 08-11-2005, 08:09 PM   #8346
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I just finished tightening up my stearing for this weekend. It looks like the plastic screws keep backing off after about 3 weekends worth of racing. All I did was screw them back down and that took care of the slop again; but thats alot of work just to get to the screws. Is anybody running bearings, instead of bushing for stearing on their NTC3? If so, do you still develop slop after awhile?
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Old 08-11-2005, 08:38 PM   #8347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreen
I just finished tightening up my stearing for this weekend. It looks like the plastic screws keep backing off after about 3 weekends worth of racing. All I did was screw them back down and that took care of the slop again; but thats alot of work just to get to the screws. Is anybody running bearings, instead of bushing for stearing on their NTC3? If so, do you still develop slop after awhile?
I don't think you needed to tear it down quite that much to tighten the steering

The steering bearings are 3/16x5/16 for the bottom ones and 1/8x1/4 for the top. That's from the online manual here. You can replace the plastic nuts with nylon lock nuts from the hardware store. I did that on the upper shock mounts, as well.
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Old 08-14-2005, 09:24 AM   #8348
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hey guys new owner here

its been awahile since ive driven on road, its quite challeging with this car

i raced it a week ago and had terrible handling, can onyone help with setting up the suspension??

i normally run foamies but i found slicks to be much better

forgive me i am a newbie lol

thanx mike
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Old 08-15-2005, 03:35 PM   #8349
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Default Lube the one-way bearing in the transmission?

I've got my 2-speed transmission apart for cleaning and bearing lube. Is is a good idea to lube the one-way needle bearing?
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Old 08-15-2005, 04:44 PM   #8350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeks
hey guys new owner here

its been awahile since ive driven on road, its quite challeging with this car

i raced it a week ago and had terrible handling, can onyone help with setting up the suspension??

i normally run foamies but i found slicks to be much better

forgive me i am a newbie lol

thanx mike
Try this setup for foam tyres and adjust according to your track-
Front-
Caster: 12 degrees
Sway Bar: Flat
Toe-out: 0.5deg
Spring: Purple
Oil: 40wt
Camber: -1deg
Ride height: 5.0mm
Droop: stock setting

Rear-
Camber: -2deg
Toe-in: 2 deg (or up to 3 degrees to tame rear end)
Ride height: 6mm
Droop: (stock setting)
Diff setting: 1/2 turn out from fully wound in
Spring: Red
Oil: 40wt
Sway bar: stock Factory team
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Old 08-15-2005, 05:01 PM   #8351
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Nice info! Thanks man! I just finished my kit last week. Still looking for time and decent weather to break it in.
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Old 08-15-2005, 07:50 PM   #8352
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Dont clean or lube the bearing unless you will lube it with Serpents Oneway Lube. Just wipe off the shaft and leave it. If you lube it with anything else you might ruin it, trust me, been there done that.
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Old 08-16-2005, 01:34 AM   #8353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ceratog
Nice info! Thanks man! I just finished my kit last week. Still looking for time and decent weather to break it in.
Its a good setup as a starting platform and you can tune it from these settings.......keep in mind that tyre diameters and shores are going to have a significant effect on handling as well........for low grip surfaces i`d be looking around 62mm rear diameter and about 61mm front........for high grip tracks i`d be looking at diameters under 60mm with a 1mm split between the front and rear.
Hope this helps
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Old 08-17-2005, 06:02 PM   #8354
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Default cvd axles

how do you get the roll pins out of the drive CVD axles?
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Old 08-17-2005, 07:06 PM   #8355
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use pliers
see if you can angle them so that one side is on the axle and the other is pusing on the pin, then sqeeze, it'll come out enough to grab that end with the pliers and pull it out. use the same technique when inserting them as well.
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