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Old 06-25-2002, 09:25 PM   #811
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Ya dont chage droop for tire size. Only chage the spring tension to get the ride height you want. Do not use the droop screws for a ride ht adjustment.

By the way guys I confused my springs earlier - purple is softer than yellow
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Old 06-26-2002, 11:51 AM   #812
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Whats a good pinion/spur combo for a small to medium sized track that's about 100'X40'?
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Old 06-26-2002, 01:26 PM   #813
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Use the stock spurs and go with 20/24 for the pinions. We run on a track that is 130 x 90 and that combination seems to work. It untimately comes down to if the layout is fast and has a lot of tight turns and short straight sections.
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Old 06-26-2002, 01:46 PM   #814
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Thanks rmac, that is what I have on the car right now but I haven't tried it out on the track yet. I beleive this is gonna be the ticket, we have alotta tight turns. Thanks.
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Old 06-26-2002, 09:26 PM   #815
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20/24 is a excellent gear for short track racing here with alot of short straights and tight corners. The only problem I have with it is the hp the rb makes , it seems to spin the tires alot at full throttle off the turns so if you race with the high output engines you will have to dial some of the throttle out, or play with the rear diff and make it slip more. Dual Rate radio features also help.

I would like someone to explain droop to me, to me the farther you let the a-arms travel the more the suspension will be able to work. I could see I guess droop playing an important part of the suspension if you raced on a almost perfectly smooth track treated with alot of VHT, but how many of us racer get to race in these conditions. I use at the most +1 on droop frt. and rear. I tried a couple of Bakers setups and could not hardly even drive the car. I tried +3 and +4 droop with not much luck, brought the car to the pits and only changed the droop to 0 rear and 1 frt and the car was hooked up. Maybe its just how I set the car up but I have better luck with more droop.
Can someone maybe enlighten us on droop??
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Old 06-27-2002, 01:26 AM   #816
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
I use at the most +1 on droop frt. and rear. I tried a couple of Bakers setups and could not hardly even drive the car. I tried +3 and +4 droop with not much luck, brought the car to the pits and only changed the droop to 0 rear and 1 frt and the car was hooked up. Maybe its just how I set the car up but I have better luck with more droop.
Can someone maybe enlighten us on droop??
Thanks bbntc3 for the help on the pinions. I just started racing nitro sedan so I'm a little new to this nitro stuff but not electric(4+ years).

As far as droop, you hit the nail on the head above saying "I have better luck with more droop", more droop(more shock downtravel) is gonna make any car easier to drive, but the more droop you add the slower the car will become. On the AE and Losi droop gauges a higher number on the gauge is more droop. More droop is gonna allow to have more ride height but do not use droop to adjust your ride height, use preload on your shock springs to adjust your ride height. Think of it like this, Think of an offroad truck with about 10mm of droop taken out of the suspension, meaning the shocks do not have that downtravel as they use too- that muther f'er would be harder than hell to drive not to mention driving over the jumps. Less droop is gonna make the car change directions faster but that doesn't mean it's gonna be easy to drive-that's where experimenting rolls in. I try to get away with the less amount of droop I can handle but yet be fast. On my ntc3 I use 4 droop in the front and 2.5 droop in the rear, I race on raw pavement(parking lot) with rubber tires and I'm making 1st and 2nd in the Amain every race(15+ turnout). That's droop.
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Old 06-27-2002, 06:55 AM   #817
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Exclamation DRooPy

Droop is the same as putting in or removing limiters in your shocks-if that helps.

I have to disagree in a nice way with the last statement that more droop is a higher number. More droop numerically on the Losi and AE guages is actually a lower amount of up-travel.

The less uptravel you have-the more responsive that end of the car gets, but ultimately has less GRIP!!! The other way-the more droop you have-the more GRIP you have, but car becomes lazy.

This is how I think about in practice. Does the car have a push or feel lazy entering the corner? If yes, I usually take droop out of front (Number on guage is higher). If on exit, the car refuses to rotate by the apex and feels like it has an on-power push-I sometimes take away droop in the rear.

And in another thought process, is car dicey and overly responsive (i.e hard to drive consistently)? If yes, then I add droop. For example-maybe the front and rear tires have all started to get smaller and I have changed ride height (with shock collars!!) , but didint add any droop to compensate-I'll ADD in some droop (numerically a smaller number on guage). Thus restoring the shock travel taken away by raising the ride height.
This usually settles car down.


And last-adding droop is standard on bumpy tracks.
Droop is by far the easiest way to dial in the car quickly before the start of a race. Just remember-this all works within a range!!! Go too far in either direction and car will act very strange. And make very small adjustments. Just a quarter turn with your allen wrench can be a huge difference in handling!!!
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Old 06-27-2002, 10:38 AM   #818
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Hi!

It's me again.

I was reading on the bumper thingy of this NTC3 and found that some guys recommended that RPM's new Bumper for it.

I don't understand why we should get this RPM's product when it's almost like that stock ones?

Also, I have a very stupid idea which might trigger some thoughts into some of you. That is: buy a 1/8 On-Road Car's Front Bumper and cut/dremel down to the size you want for your NTC3 and solve all that front end problems.

Don't get what I meant?

Simple.

That that "stick" bumper out and place it on a 1/8 On-Road Car's Front Bumper (Find one that is flat, if not, just buy one by any brand that's available at your LHS). Mark those holes to be drilled on the BIG piece of plastic and start the drilling.

Afterwhich you place that BIG bumper back onto your NTC3, with the lower Front Bumper/Arms' Mount still on the car. Use those rubber paddings that were given to you in the car when you purchased the NTC3.

Lastly, dremel/sand/cut to the size you want, especially on the sides where this BIG Bumper will protrude out a lot.

Has any one of you seen such modification? Or does this trigger more ideas in cost saving? OR is this a stupid idea? Please state your view.

The reason why I wrote this is because I'm desperate enough to get the bumper, if I were to crash and break the "stick" bumper. I do that to my V1R, installing a Mugen MTX2 Front Bumper on with a little dremelling, THAT IS, way before Kyosho came out with V1RR.

Just my thoughts... after years of racing.
Alfie

Last edited by Alfie; 06-27-2002 at 10:40 AM.
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Old 06-27-2002, 12:19 PM   #819
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Hey guys thanks for the info on droop that helps a bunch!!! And the higher the # droop the less droop the car has I think. To fix the bumper deal you do not have to buy a rpm or 1/8 scale bumber and mod. Just get a 2inch x 9 inch piece of .210 lexan, or what they call 1/4 inch lexan, not plexiglass!,and make the bumber, just trace the orginal, make the cut outs about a 1/4inch bigger than the stock, then you have a bullett proof bumber that is only 3grams heavier than the stock and will withstand almost all possible punishment!!! I copied the Ae bumper and drilled 1/2 holes in the bumper to get the weight down to close to stock weight. Warning!!!!!! The competetion hates the lexan bumper it can and will do major damage to your opponents car!!!!!
Cost for the Lexan should be less than $2 Or I can make them for you guys for lets say $10 plus shipping!

Last edited by bbntc3; 06-27-2002 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 06-27-2002, 01:25 PM   #820
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Quote:
Originally posted by Alfie
Hi!

It's me again.

I was reading on the bumper thingy of this NTC3 and found that some guys recommended that RPM's new Bumper for it.

I don't understand why we should get this RPM's product when it's almost like that stock ones?

Also, I have a very stupid idea which might trigger some thoughts into some of you. That is: buy a 1/8 On-Road Car's Front Bumper and cut/dremel down to the size you want for your NTC3 and solve all that front end problems.

Don't get what I meant?

Simple.

That that "stick" bumper out and place it on a 1/8 On-Road Car's Front Bumper (Find one that is flat, if not, just buy one by any brand that's available at your LHS). Mark those holes to be drilled on the BIG piece of plastic and start the drilling.

Afterwhich you place that BIG bumper back onto your NTC3, with the lower Front Bumper/Arms' Mount still on the car. Use those rubber paddings that were given to you in the car when you purchased the NTC3.

Lastly, dremel/sand/cut to the size you want, especially on the sides where this BIG Bumper will protrude out a lot.

Has any one of you seen such modification? Or does this trigger more ideas in cost saving? OR is this a stupid idea? Please state your view.

The reason why I wrote this is because I'm desperate enough to get the bumper, if I were to crash and break the "stick" bumper. I do that to my V1R, installing a Mugen MTX2 Front Bumper on with a little dremelling, THAT IS, way before Kyosho came out with V1RR.

Just my thoughts... after years of racing.
Alfie

WELL, The RPM bumper fits the NTC3 and is 200mm so its legal for racing without wiping out the dremel. And for 10$ who can really find fault with it??? Also RPM backs up all there parts with a replacement warranty... They even say that normal use would include hitting a curb..

I understand what your saying about a 1/8th bumper but first you have to find one that will fit then you have to modify it to fit and it probably cost more then 10$ on top of that the company will just laugh at you if you send it in broken for replacment after you dremel the poop out of it.

The stock AE bumper is junk. ITs been milled out too much and it snaps easily my 14$ kydex sheet made me about 4 bumpers that i will keep on hand for emergency.. But the RPM unit will be my main bumper from now on.
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Old 06-27-2002, 01:31 PM   #821
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Talking RPM Bumper!!

Joel-I agree!!! The RPM is nice and low profile and light. No probelms!!! Gotta love the warranty too!!! Its so NOT the AE Bumper. People keepsaying the bumper on the AE is Kydex. I think its just plain old ABS or a plastic-but not Kydex. Its too soft. Kydex is much tougher I "think". But WHO cares because it's junk!!!! I dont even care so I'll stop typing now!!!
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Old 06-27-2002, 01:40 PM   #822
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Joel-I agree!!! The RPM is nice and low profile and light. No probelms!!! Gotta love the warranty too!!! Its so NOT the AE Bumper. People keepsaying the bumper on the AE is Kydex. I think its just plain old ABS or a plastic-but not Kydex. Its too soft. Kydex is much tougher I "think". But WHO cares because it's junk!!!! I dont even care so I'll stop typing now!!!
Ray sit down and have a nice cool drink. Got anything else good to sell? Another killer Speedmerchant?
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Old 06-27-2002, 03:24 PM   #823
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Default hehehe!!!

You know it has been hot lately here in Ohio!! I am all out of Speedmerchants!! My new Rev.3 gets ordered next month!!! Cant wai to start the labor of love and start prepping it for this fall!!

Bak to NTC3. Others have already asked, but I cannot remember replies!!! Does anyone know of any other pipes available for the Rear Exhaust manifold?? Is the dual chamber AE pipe worth the money?
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Old 06-27-2002, 04:57 PM   #824
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get the RPM bumper if you want to bent your chassis..and shaft
i just did....
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Old 06-27-2002, 05:06 PM   #825
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Quote:
Originally posted by ME-student
get the RPM bumper if you want to bent your chassis..and shaft
i just did....


PLEASE, the bumper bent your chassis and your shaft?.. OR you crashed so hard that you bent your chassis and your shaft?


I bent a 90degree angle on a 3mm serpent impusle chassis when a reciever pack failed. The car ran full speed in 2nd gear into the concrete curb.............. It was not the bumpers fault at 50mph!
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