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Old 06-30-2005, 07:25 PM   #8191
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Question for anyone that uses the Associated starter box. My pinion and belt are pretty much stripped out. I was looking here:
http://www.rc10.com/misc/database/db_1750.htm
and I found the belt, but Im not sure what part # the motor pinion is. Maybe the 29072 bearing/axle set? Has anyone else replaced these parts?

Thanks
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Old 06-30-2005, 09:34 PM   #8192
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Big race this weekend guys, State championships!!! car is on a rail but those damn mugens are killing us!!!! Running some older Top GUn 777 trick mugen MT engine pwer this weekend, Diffs were holding up good on half wore out Richey power. switched to Top Gun older stuff I haven't used yet and damn car went back to eating front oneways and spools out of it. Switched back to ball diff tightened all the way down with ETC3 geras no friction disc on car is pretty good!!! Wish me luck!! 2 days of qualifing and and 30 in main!! I'll need all the luck and can get!!! LOL BOB

Also thanks to Danny Elliott of DA HELIION bodies. Danny had some trouble with his molds so he sent me a personal body of his painted cutout and ready to go, just dropped it on a few minor trimming and it was ready, he also next day aired it UPS it to me!!! People like this in this sport are hard to come by these days!!!!! Thanks a Million Danny!! Bob
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Old 06-30-2005, 11:14 PM   #8193
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bbntc3 be interested in hearing your results. You guys have a website to keep track. I have a MTX3 and NTC3 I haven't had a chance to run the MTX3 got it last year and everytime I try to run it we have a rain out. Summer starts here the day after the 4th so hopefully I can try the car out on the 9th our next race.
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Old 06-30-2005, 11:35 PM   #8194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
I played with almost all the centax clutch that is available in the market, especially serpent mugne type centax, then cetnax 2 and 3 from Serpent.....
i guess i had just as much time as you do. there are not too many differnt types of centax around and they are all base on the same theory.

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and I have never heard or seen ppl cut or drill the brown/black centax used clutch shoe (it serve no purposes at all except slipping, less contacting surface, less traction).........however, there are ppl DRILL or CUT the clutch shoes into 3 or 4 pieces, install them in reverse, to replace the original white flyweigh...........again, the flyweigh and the clutch spring are the only 2 items that I can think of ppl will drill or cut on CENTAX style clutch...
my friend sent me this scan, said i might be able to use it to porve a point or two. this is a scan from a japanese rc magazine march 2003 issue, racers talked about their thoughts on the car they drive and how they make their car run better. this particular racer talks about his v-1-r and one of the pictures show the mod he has done on the centax clutch shoe (which you have never heard or seen before). i have no idea what the description says but probably saying the same thing you are so sure of: "it serve no purposes at all except slipping, less contracting surface, less traction" or something like that. got to have it translated someday.

i don't mind you disagreeing with me (which i said so on an ealier post), but when you dismissing an idea or a theory just because you had never seem before, i have a problem. you probably still think the earth is flat.

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Beside, PORTER is refering on the OEM NTC3 2 shoes or 3 shoes clutch, since he is new to nitro, I doubt he is equipped with centax on his NTC3 now.
i suppose you are right. but the ntc3 i own briefly did has a centax on it, maybe that is why it didn't work so well, i guess i will never know.
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Old 07-01-2005, 12:45 AM   #8195
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g'luck bob...hope u get some success at the state champiionships..just keep ur kool, have fun, flirt with the trophy chicks, and u'll be fine
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Old 07-01-2005, 06:23 AM   #8196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RC Paperboy
Question for anyone that uses the Associated starter box. My pinion and belt are pretty much stripped out. I was looking here:
http://www.rc10.com/misc/database/db_1750.htm
and I found the belt, but Im not sure what part # the motor pinion is. Maybe the 29072 bearing/axle set? Has anyone else replaced these parts?

Thanks
The gear on the motor is part of the motor. I don't think it's offered seperately. When I first got my box the motor shorted out. AE sent me a replacement motor and the gear was already on it. You may have to buy a new motor.
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Old 07-01-2005, 11:54 AM   #8197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Data
i guess i had just as much time as you do. there are not too many differnt types of centax around and they are all base on the same theory.

my friend sent me this scan, said i might be able to use it to porve a point or two. this is a scan from a japanese rc magazine march 2003 issue, racers talked about their thoughts on the car they drive and how they make their car run better. this particular racer talks about his v-1-r and one of the pictures show the mod he has done on the centax clutch shoe (which you have never heard or seen before). i have no idea what the description says but probably saying the same thing you are so sure of: "it serve no purposes at all except slipping, less contracting surface, less traction" or something like that. got to have it translated someday.

i don't mind you disagreeing with me (which i said so on an ealier post), but when you dismissing an idea or a theory just because you had never seem before, i have a problem. you probably still think the earth is flat.



i suppose you are right. but the ntc3 i own briefly did has a centax on it, maybe that is why it didn't work so well, i guess i will never know.
I think you need to relax a little and think about what I am saying....I did not dismissing your concept, I just simply saying I have never heard or seen anyone will do a MOD like that on the centax clutch shoes......and I doubt it is any GOOD at all, and you can actually tell me a thing or 2.......like you said, there are not much centax out there, even on centax 1 2, or 3 are all based on the same concept........if making the centax clutch shoe has less contacting surface would actually IMPROVED the performance.........Serpent, Mugen, Kyosho would do that 2 years ago.......and not to mention all these aftermarket brand like kawahara, yokomo or 3racing..........

I do not read Japanese (just a little) and I don't know why he does that, or does the cutted shoe do any good on the V1R.........I will let you to tell us what does the cutted centax clutch shoe can do on a RC car....

Again, no need to say somethings like "...you probably still think the earth is flat...." I didn't call you anything so far, right..? Beside, I do think this world is actually FLAT.........at least, at some extend...........LOL
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Old 07-01-2005, 12:01 PM   #8198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jiml
The gear on the motor is part of the motor. I don't think it's offered seperately. When I first got my box the motor shorted out. AE sent me a replacement motor and the gear was already on it. You may have to buy a new motor.
Yeah, it does come with the gear when you buy the almost $50 USD motor....trust me, if you are planning to keep the starter box for a while, that 775 motor are well worth it cause you will ended up using it somehow...

That is the most expensive stock motor that I had brought....I bet that motor in HK is like $50 HKD, like $5 USD.
It is a tough call........a new starter box is like $65.....
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Old 07-01-2005, 04:35 PM   #8199
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Default NTC3 starter box

what would be a good alternative for the AE starter box. I mean if the motor costs that much wouldn't it be easier to find another starter? Preferably one that the parts are cheaper?? I don't like the fact you can't use a gel cel in them either but that's just me.
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Old 07-01-2005, 04:38 PM   #8200
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I guess Ill just put a new belt on it and use an exacto to clean out the teeth. It works decently now, but its touchy.

Theres a 12V gel cell in mine...I bought it from a friend, so I dont know where he got it, but I have one in there.
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Old 07-01-2005, 09:44 PM   #8201
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Default Clutch

I have a 3 shoe clutch on my car, engine is an RS12. Im getting terrible fuel mileage and the engine is overheating. The clutch seems to engage almost right away - could that be putting undue stress on the engine and contributing to these problems?

I think either way, Id like to experiement with the clutch. My question is, how big of a hole will make a difference? I was planning to drill a hole parallel to the crankshaft through the meaty part of the shoe. Should I be trying a 1/16" to start? Or will I need more liek a 1/8" to make a significant difference?

Thanks
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Old 07-02-2005, 04:04 AM   #8202
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From memory I read somewhere about a 1/64th hole working quite well on the 2 shoe clutch....you could try this and then always go bigger later on.
As for the engine overheating etc, it may be the clutch but also check the drivetrain to make sure theres no binding.
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Old 07-02-2005, 04:08 AM   #8203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcjunk-yard
what would be a good alternative for the AE starter box. I mean if the motor costs that much wouldn't it be easier to find another starter? Preferably one that the parts are cheaper?? I don't like the fact you can't use a gel cel in them either but that's just me.
The True-Start Universal starter boxes work very well with the NTC3 and allow the wheel to be mounted in the other direction should you ever decide to go with a belt drive car.
When using this with the NTC3, I had to reverse the polarities on this starter box to get it turning the engine over in the correct direction.
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Old 07-03-2005, 12:44 AM   #8204
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ok, maybe i am an idiot. i am switching my centax for my ft 3 shoe clutch, and i have a question, when i install the collet, teh flywheel, sg nut, shim, bearing , clutch bell, flanged bearing, 2 shims, screw, and then tighten it down, it does not spin free, but when i back the screw off a 1/8th turn it spins super free, am i supposed to tighten the screw ALL the way down or just so all play goes away, and still lets it spin free? I hope i explained it all right,

the sg shaft does not come completely through the outer bearing, it is about 1 or 2mm short of coming all the way through,


frank
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Old 07-03-2005, 03:47 PM   #8205
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Hi Frank. The screw needs to be fully tightened for normal operation. The clutch bell will need to be shimmed. You will need to use the small shims that fit inside the clutch bell bearings. Use the shims to push the screw further away from the clutch-bell until it spins freely.
Hope this helps, and makes sense
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