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Old 05-25-2005, 05:53 PM   #8026
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hey guys, i have a ntc3+ that has really really loose in the rear on turns. tha back of the car will just spin out. i have changed the shock oil to 60 in the front and installed new 40 in the rear. and that problem was with rubber tires(cs27's). last weekend there were no box stock nitros at ourclub race so i put on trc's double purple's on the front and tan's on the rear. the car was still really loose. any ideas? thanks.
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Old 05-25-2005, 07:34 PM   #8027
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Originally Posted by owens
hey guys, i have a ntc3+ that has really really loose in the rear on turns. tha back of the car will just spin out. i have changed the shock oil to 60 in the front and installed new 40 in the rear. and that problem was with rubber tires(cs27's). last weekend there were no box stock nitros at ourclub race so i put on trc's double purple's on the front and tan's on the rear. the car was still really loose. any ideas? thanks.

if you look around the fourm there are guys solving this problem from awhile back by adding -2 toe i think it was and 40w shock oil correct me if im wrong.
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Old 05-25-2005, 08:47 PM   #8028
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Thanks Rookie,
Took the shim from behind the collet and it almost fits. Will have to work on the shimming tomorrow. Problem is I cannot get the pinions off the bell. It will take some effort. If this gets to be too much of a hastle, I will just sell the clutch. I really did like the k factory 3 shoe clutch, but broke a spring. I cannot spend too much time with this, because I now have an RRR too and I am trying to get used to it. Without a clock, I feel more consistant with the tc3 and I have it hooked,, but when I get it right, I feel I set quicker laps wuth the RRR. I should know SUnday at the trophy race. I will run both during practice and then decide.
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Old 05-25-2005, 08:56 PM   #8029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
My guess.....the CENTAX.

My feeling is....there are too much torque generated by the centax when the first gear engaged....that caused the spin out...........I replaced the clutch to the typical 2 shoes for this weekend, so I will see is that the centax problem for the spun out....but for those who used centax or anytype of centax, what is your thought..? Or anyway I can fix my problem?

I have set my clutch spring collet to the far outside area...that is = engage sooner and smoother with the LEAST punch, I cannot not lossen it up more.....if I turn in the collet more, engage later with higher RPM, I am afraid that will only get worst....

Heavier fly wieghts may help your problem as well. I would make the end play on your clutch bell smaller first. Say if it is 0.7mm now, try 0.4mm this will make it engage a little softer. Good luck
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Old 05-25-2005, 08:59 PM   #8030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owens
hey guys, i have a ntc3+ that has really really loose in the rear on turns. tha back of the car will just spin out. i have changed the shock oil to 60 in the front and installed new 40 in the rear. and that problem was with rubber tires(cs27's). last weekend there were no box stock nitros at ourclub race so i put on trc's double purple's on the front and tan's on the rear. the car was still really loose. any ideas? thanks.
I think the NTC3+ comes standard with that problem!

I had the same thing with mine, I added -2 degrees toe on the rear and set the ride heights so the front was slightly higher than the rear. Along with correct tyre choice, the car now rockets out of the turns (Thanks to AndyT )
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Old 05-25-2005, 09:03 PM   #8031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owens
trc's double purple's on the front and tan's on the rear. the car was still really loose. any ideas? thanks.
Where you using electric sedan foams? That might be one of your problems. I usually use Ellegi 42/40 shore sometimes Ellegi 42/42 shore.
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Old 05-26-2005, 05:04 AM   #8032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJC13B
I think the NTC3+ comes standard with that problem!

I had the same thing with mine, I added -2 degrees toe on the rear and set the ride heights so the front was slightly higher than the rear. Along with correct tyre choice, the car now rockets out of the turns (Thanks to AndyT )
my car did the identical thing, and all i changed was the camber on the rear, leave the toe in and reduce the camber, or stand the wheels straighter up by a degree it worked for me, but at the same time I also changed tyres, this was on rubbers btw
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Old 05-26-2005, 10:01 AM   #8033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHUCKMANDO
Thanks Rookie,
Took the shim from behind the collet and it almost fits. Will have to work on the shimming tomorrow. Problem is I cannot get the pinions off the bell. It will take some effort. If this gets to be too much of a hastle, I will just sell the clutch. I really did like the k factory 3 shoe clutch, but broke a spring. I cannot spend too much time with this, because I now have an RRR too and I am trying to get used to it. Without a clock, I feel more consistant with the tc3 and I have it hooked,, but when I get it right, I feel I set quicker laps wuth the RRR. I should know SUnday at the trophy race. I will run both during practice and then decide.
Trust me, if I do have the time like you, I will get the RRR or back to 710 and call it DONE with NTC3.......I garantee you that the RRR will be a better car now over the 4 years old NTC3....however, you just cannot beat the simple and clean layout of the NTC3 and you can replace almost anything within 5-10 minutes....I bet the different with RRR and 710.

Let me make sure 1 thing...you add those little shim on the 1st SPUR gear, no shim need to be added on any PINION gear....I am not sure why you have to remove the pinion off the clutch housing.
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Old 05-26-2005, 10:03 AM   #8034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big KAT
Heavier fly wieghts may help your problem as well. I would make the end play on your clutch bell smaller first. Say if it is 0.7mm now, try 0.4mm this will make it engage a little softer. Good luck
End play is 0.5mm now...I don't think and see if I go any lower then 0.5mm will soften up by a lot.
Heavier fly weighs will required higher RPM to engage (just like dialed the springs more).......that will only get worst.

May be a softer springs and a ligher (drilled) fly weighs will answer the question, but again, that is a lot of work and times, I am back to the MIP clutch and 2 shoes and will see whats the outcome....thanks guys.
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Old 05-26-2005, 10:05 AM   #8035
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyT
I`d guess by the way youve described it, that the centax clutch has ben set too heavy....as a result its carrying a heap of RPM when it engages and this is resulting in the spin/traction prob.
Other than setting it lighter thru less spring tension (going by your post it looks like you already have it set as soft as possible?), you could possibly try a lighter spring to give you more leeway to have it engage earlier in the RPM.
yes...I cannot loosen up that nut any further....or it will bind with the housing and did a complete lock up........but your softer spriing idea is a good one, I will see where I can get one....Mugen parts are not easy to get here.
Thanks..........
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Old 05-26-2005, 06:19 PM   #8036
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wayne, what rubber tires are you running? i was running take-off cs27's.
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Old 05-26-2005, 06:44 PM   #8037
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I was using kyosho 35v rubber tyres on kyosho inserts, thise tyres are now screwed (4 sets of) and the plan is to get some sorex 36r with hpi blue insert, because I hear around the traps that they are better
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Old 05-26-2005, 07:43 PM   #8038
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Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Trust me, if I do have the time like you, I will get the RRR or back to 710 and call it DONE with NTC3.......I garantee you that the RRR will be a better car now over the 4 years old NTC3....however, you just cannot beat the simple and clean layout of the NTC3 and you can replace almost anything within 5-10 minutes....I bet the different with RRR and 710.

Let me make sure 1 thing...you add those little shim on the 1st SPUR gear, no shim need to be added on any PINION gear....I am not sure why you have to remove the pinion off the clutch housing.
I just picked up some shims, didn't have any that would fit. I already put back the 3 shoe ckutch for tomorrow. Maybe I will try again tomorrow night.
I picked up an mtx3 2 months ago, liked it but my lhs now stocks the RRR so I picked up the WC, and sold the mtx3. Reason I sold the mugen instead of the tc3 is as you said, so easy to work on, and for dirty tracks, I do not have to worry about belts, Just damn one-ways Plus, I got alot more back for the mtx than I could with the tc3. The other thing is I am still very competitave with tc3
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Old 05-26-2005, 07:49 PM   #8039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
I will see where I can get one....Mugen parts are not easy to get here.
Thanks..........
If you cant find one there, try Jason at Online Hobbies-
www.onlinehobbies.com.au
He`s the Mugen dealer here in Oz
Cheers
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Old 05-27-2005, 12:13 AM   #8040
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CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE I CAN GET A "FIX" SETUP FOR MY SHOCK TOWERS? THERE STARTING TO GET EXPENCIVE.
THANKS
ED REGALIA
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