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Rc10ntc3

Old 06-22-2002, 04:39 PM
  #781  
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First off are you using the kit tires? The V-rage?

IF YES???? GET RID OF THEM.

Seriously. If your running them you will go no where fast.

Get a set of foam tires or if your club does not allow them(shame on them) get some proper racing rubber tires. The v-rage i have yet too in competative use nitro or electric..


Mine are sitting on my pit table in the original bag.


On top of this if your using a 1hp + motor rubber tires are going to be very hard to keep traction with.
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Old 06-22-2002, 04:47 PM
  #782  
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I am using Foams. My kit tires are still in the bag like yours.

I run a MT12 engine but I really don't think it's the horsepower. because of the following.

I can literally run in about 4-5 foot diameter circle and when turning left and goose the throttle, the rear end gets loose. When turning right, the car actually has a push.

I would typically think that it was a setup issue (uneven shock lengths, droop not set right, etc.) but I have checked all of that and everything seems to be correct. And that fact the it is the same side as the straight line acceleration pull makes me think it is something else.
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Old 06-22-2002, 06:35 PM
  #783  
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sounds like you need a tweek station bad! that car has a bit of a balance problem but most of it can be taken out with a tweekstation.
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Old 06-22-2002, 07:35 PM
  #784  
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what engien would you guys recomend for a ntc3
it dosnt have to be bumb start but i want to get decent speed outa it so i can beat this v1r with a rs12black and a ntc3 with a cx12 pull.


i was thinkin of a rs12s3 but its fairly pricy here.
so what would you put in one???
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Old 06-22-2002, 09:19 PM
  #785  
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question
I bought the side exhaust kit
to make it a rear exhaust all I need are the rear exhaust engine mounts and the rear manifold, correct?
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Old 06-22-2002, 09:21 PM
  #786  
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What do I need to make my Nitro TC3 Pull-start side exhuast version to accept Non-Pull start Rear exhuast engines?
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Old 06-22-2002, 09:23 PM
  #787  
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LOLS

Can't believe we both asked at the same time.
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Old 06-22-2002, 10:32 PM
  #788  
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Is that Tweek-Station really that important?

Just wondering because I ONLY have a Serpent Camber guage, that's all.

I was racing with one guy this time at a tight local track... then I remember challenging this one guy to get him to use rubber tires. He replied saying that he would be "much, much" faster using rubber tires. He was using foams, which I don't understand?!

I always believe that foams are the way to get your car around faster than using rubber tires.... He must have thought I was a Newbie?? OR was the theory opposites now?
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Old 06-23-2002, 12:36 AM
  #789  
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balance is very critical when it comes to racing peorid and a good set of set up tools like a tweek station, intergy alignment station (just like hudy) and ride hight and droop gauges you will neverr have to buy these pices again so take care of them. Also when you setup the car right it will be very easy to drive fast
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Old 06-23-2002, 12:53 AM
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I see that there's something which lead all of us purchase the setup tools: the droop screws (up-stop & down-stop).

I remember racing my Tamiya TA02. In those days, there were no such thing as droop. That car handled like a dream.

Oh well, it all comes down to the money. With those up-stop & downstop crub screws doing the trick, the manufacturers for the tools can fetch more money.

I don't own any of those tools. I do my setups purely on my glass desk top, WITH my good old vernier calipers and the Serpent Camber Gauge. Yes, it may be slow doing the setup one-by-one, but I can save the money for other critical parts on the car instead.
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Old 06-23-2002, 07:36 AM
  #791  
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The Tweak Station by MIP is an excellent tool to have and it has nothing to do with the droop screws. The droop screws stop down travel so the car doesn't roll from side to side so much. If you are resting against them at ride height you need to make some adjustments or the car will not handle well.
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Old 06-23-2002, 12:56 PM
  #792  
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Originally posted by rodneybarrett
Is anyone else having the following problems.


1) If you let the car take off going away from you and kind of blip the throttle a few times, the car tends to pull left at each blip of the throttle.

and

2) When turning right the car is very stable and the rear end feels planted when I get on the gas. But when turning left and started accelerating, the rear end starts to break lose and I have to then get off the gas.



Is this the torque steer issue people have been talking about?

Is there anyway to correct it? Is so, please let me know.

Other than that, The car is working fine.
]

rodney, yes that is the torque steer - the same one that exists in the electric tc3. Send an email to driftmaster - he told me he has about as much torque steer on his nitro that he does on the electric - but it shouldn't be so bad that you're breaking loose. If anybody can help you tune it out Drift or PW can.

PW - didn't ED drive his NTC3 the race before last when you were leading him? I think he went back to his yok precisely because you pulled out on him. I might be wrong but I don't ever remember anybody turning that many low 12's in nitro like ed did last race. Besides - you being good with the NTC3 doesn't dis-prove my point. You would still be a top 3 driver in nitro if you were driving an RS4 RTR. The NTC3 is not why you're fast - hell you just got 2nd in A-MAIN at MS state championships in electric pro-stock!


Show me anybody that is running mid-pack with some pro-car and then hops in an NTC3 and of a sudden runs with the leaders and then I'll admit ntc3 is dominant. Don't believe the hype - the ntc3 is an excellent car - might be best bang for the buck out there. But just don't lull yourself into thinking it's got that much of an advantage over any other well-tuned, well-setup, well-driven car.

Last edited by patelladragger; 06-23-2002 at 02:35 PM.
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Old 06-23-2002, 04:54 PM
  #793  
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Get one or get out of the way. My prediction 10/10 in the A at Cincy will be NTC3s. Okay may be not, but it will definetely be over 50% NTC3s. Oh and yes at this level of competition it does take a midpack runner and put them in the A(how many examples do you want?). It is dominating the Midwest Series.http://www.mytsn.com/news/publ.asp?pid=5693
There are still a few Serpents making it; but that's with factory drivers at the wheel, and they still don't win.


Last edited by OB42TC3; 06-23-2002 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 06-23-2002, 05:29 PM
  #794  
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I don't need to get one, I've had 3 already. My prediction is that if you take the percentage of ntc3 that are entered they won't exceed that percentage by much in the top spots at nationals. If well over half the field are driving the same car what does that prove if half the top finishers are in that same car? It proves the bandwagon is very big right now.

But let Baker switch to kyosho next year and run their new car and watch how fast people get off. (not that they'd switch to kyosho, prices too high support too low). Matta fact, let cyrul and the trinity boyz lay it down and you're going to see a stampede to the reflex. I already talked to a guy from ohio who has seen the factory boyz running practice - guess what -- he says they're ALL hauling _ss. If you have the name of anyone who went from a mid-level driver to being able to being able to run with baker or cyrul or tossollini just because they switched from put_any_non-ntc3_car_here, post it - ALONG with a race result somewhere to prove it.

It amazes me how people get so hooked on brand loyalty. Enjoy the car- it is an excellent one. Dominant? Wrong word - how about popular? If NEXT Year's nats come around and enough time has passed that the honeymoon is over - and the bandwagon is still loaded up like now - then we can call it dominant.

Last edited by patelladragger; 06-23-2002 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 06-23-2002, 06:31 PM
  #795  
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I'll agree that there's a band wagon thing going on; but it's different than the old Serpent bandwagon, what you have here is a truly different car that sets a new standard in a number of ways
1.Speed and acceleration- yes it matters
2.braking- the other half of the equation
3.durability- yes it breaks; solution don't plow the walls or other cars; and its right on the 60 oz mark; I'll take power-to-weight over durability any day; oh yeah AE diff cases are cheaper than any make of belt.
4.Last but not least this car requires so much less upkeep; I'd spend the whole week last year getting the car cleaned, now it's a few hours; which equals more enjoyment.

Last year I did well with my NOB4(couple b-main wins; 2nd in IFMAR pr-worlds); this year I've already had two finishes in the MWS better than any last year(4th cincy, 6th chicago(laps)). I currently stand 5th in points; I finished 11th last year. My driving has a lot to do with it; but the car's the other half. On-road is not like off-road where you can make up for it with driving; the car has to be there or you won't do well. I didn't think it would make that much difference; but now I think different. I also won't argue about it anymore; I'd just like to get my opinion out there so that anyone who's on the edge about what car to get or drive or whatever can hear what I think.
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