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Old 02-22-2005, 02:50 PM   #7636
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Heres the a site for the newest pipe for the NTC3. The pipe diameter and pipe itself is the biggest yet. (1/8th scale)
it also has 3 chambers. I have the werks pipe, just waiting on weather here to test.

Good luck with your venture! Bob


http://werksracing.com/product.do?sku=WRX6610C
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Old 02-22-2005, 02:55 PM   #7637
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dddddaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaammmmmmmmmnnnnnnnnnnn nnnnnnnnnnn.... i gotta love that crome
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Old 02-22-2005, 06:18 PM   #7638
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BB, keep us informed about the pipe. It would be nice to have another pipe to consider.
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Old 02-22-2005, 07:07 PM   #7639
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Heres the a site for the newest pipe for the NTC3. The pipe diameter and pipe itself is the biggest yet. (1/8th scale)
it also has 3 chambers. I have the werks pipe, just waiting on weather here to test.

Good luck with your venture! Bob


http://werksracing.com/product.do?sku=WRX6610C
Thanks for the info Bob. It's just too bad they don't make a pipe or complete exhaust system for a side exhaust nitro engine??? But that pipe sure does look purrrrty. I've only been able to find one company that has a complete side exhaust system for the NTC3 & thats this one VVVVVVV http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ductID=DYN6625
I'm not sure how good Dynamite is now-a-days, but back when I was like 9 years old they had a pretty good reputation producing batteries that could last a long time. But assuming how technological advancement in todays world is far superior then the days of old. I can only assume Dynamite has fallen back in the pack like most all great companies do eventually.
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Old 02-22-2005, 08:12 PM   #7640
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Nostrixoxide: Why use side exhaust engines? With the money you've dropped in the car I don't see any use for the lower hp side exhaust engines. Also just wondering did you add head shims to cut compression when you installed the blower? In gas car engines you usually want to cut compression when a turbo or blower is installed. If you did'nt change head clearance have you removed head and looked for dentonation signs yet?
Also what % nitro you using??

Chuckmando: I'll keep everyone informed soon as we start testing. Maybe in the next few weeks. Our season if the weather keeps holding up maybe be starting in March instead of April. The pipe looks real good to me! From what I've been told it will give the car a smoother transition through the power bands with better top end. It maybe just what the car needs for longer tracks. It may not be what I need for short track racing though, I need the engine to get up in the pipe real fast, and this design may not do that. The pipe is monster size!!
Like I said earlier its 1/8th scale material.

If you watch ebay you can get the WERKS pipe for less than $50
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Old 02-22-2005, 08:35 PM   #7641
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Heres the a site for the newest pipe for the NTC3. The pipe diameter and pipe itself is the biggest yet. (1/8th scale)
it also has 3 chambers. I have the werks pipe, just waiting on weather here to test.

Good luck with your venture! Bob


http://werksracing.com/product.do?sku=WRX6610C



the pipe looks damn good and damn expensive too.80$???
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:21 PM   #7642
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Nostrixoxide: Why use side exhaust engines? With the money you've dropped in the car I don't see any use for the lower hp side exhaust engines. Also just wondering did you add head shims to cut compression when you installed the blower? In gas car engines you usually want to cut compression when a turbo or blower is installed. If you did'nt change head clearance have you removed head and looked for dentonation signs yet?
Also what % nitro you using??
BBntc3:
When I first purchased the NTC3+RTR I brought it home and started polishing, porting & just generally started making the car look alot nicer. I never even drove the car with the stock ae15x motor that came with the kit. I just decided to purchase the OS 18cv-rx motor because I knew I wanted more performance, but I wasn't positive where the car was going to end up in the fututre. So I figured the CV-RX motor would be a decent place to start because it didn't require me to replace the exhaust right off the bat. Since that point I started to become more power hungry & decided to order the OS18tz-tx motor & the MPPA supercharger. I guess you can say I'm alittle crazy. My friends thought I was nuts because I still haven't run a complete quart of fuel through the CV-RX motor & I already made up my mind to replace it for something with alittle more power. Now just to give you a better understanding of my thought process, picture this.

I have a 2.28hp OS motor waiting to be installed!!!

I've been in contact with a gentleman by the name of Danny Elliot (da-hellion) & he is going to send me the instructions on what is needed to install a big block into the chassis. From what he has told me it's very simple, I just need to drill a couple of holes for the big block engine mounts to bolt in!!!

I'm debating on purchasing a 3.5hp SH engine I seen that is selling for $169 bucks. Now call me crazy, but 3.5hp is alot more then 2.28hp & a sh_t load more the the 1.6hp engine thats in my car now. Plus I still have the supercharger to bolt onto what ever engine I decide to go with. I know that much power is pretty much going to be un-useable but I'm a lunitic I guess???

As for altering the head shim's on the CV-RX engine, I have left it stock. Stock it has 2 shims equaling .3mm (.1mm & .2mm shims) OS recommends removing the .1mm shim if your running low % nitro fuel & leaving it as is if you run 30% or higher. It has alot to do with the atmousphere also. I live about 2500ft above sea level so the air is pretty thin, nothing like living in Colorado though? I run Trinity (monster brew) fuel with 20% nitro & 16% lubricants. Remember the motor is still breaking in!!!
I have a quart of Trinity Platnium 30% in the garage that I want to try out, but I'm alittle worried because I was informed that it only has 6 or 8% lubricant in it. I really don't want to blow up the engine even though I do have spares. I just want it to last as long as possible. I have completely disassembled & hand polished all of the engines internals (inside of block, crankshaft, Con. rod, top of the piston) the only thing I did not do was any port work to the sleeve. I don't have enough knowledge in that field of the nitro RC engine to attempt that as of yet. But I did figure that the smoother I could make the engine components the better it would perform. I have had the head of several times & there are no indications that the engine is running improperly at this point. I will have to keep a close eye on it once I start leaning out the engine more. It seems to run best when I run it with either a HPI platnium/Iridium r-3 med plug or a McCoy MC-59. For some reason it doesn't get off the line as quick when i run it with a #8 OS plug???
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Old 02-22-2005, 10:56 PM   #7643
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I was just wonndering if n e one knows if there is going to be a NTC4...thanx...and btw Nitrous...u are crazy lol talk bout powa!
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Old 02-23-2005, 12:14 AM   #7644
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the mc coy glow plug is long than the os plug, so you gain a little bit of compression there, i had to turn out my low end 2 full turns from factory just to get it not to over heat, but yes it is faster with a mc coy
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Old 02-23-2005, 05:58 PM   #7645
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nostrixoxide
BBntc3:


I know that much power is pretty much going to be un-useable but I'm a lunitic I guess???

Hmmm I`d love to see some 1/8th foams added to help get this power to the ground
Cheers
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Old 02-23-2005, 06:59 PM   #7646
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Quote:
Originally posted by AndyT
Hmmm I`d love to see some 1/8th foams added to help get this power to the ground
Cheers
I actually wanted to try this, but I was informed by my LHS that there would be clearence issues with the steering? Can you make any suggestions? It would be very helpful if you could post a link or some pictures of what will fit without any clearence issues. Thanks for the advise & any help you can provide me. Please keep in mind that I'm a big fan of solid white wheels? I'm more into chrome wheels for my car. Thanks again!!!!!

Nostrix
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Old 02-23-2005, 09:39 PM   #7647
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I know how you could make 1/8th wheels and any wild powered .21 you want fit...

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Buy a new MRX-4 kit......

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Old 02-25-2005, 02:58 PM   #7648
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Foam Tire Truer

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...959761840&rd=1
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Old 02-26-2005, 08:19 AM   #7649
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Need some help guys,

I've raced the team car for 2 years,this year I got a FTNTC3.

When I had it on the hudy I saw the rear wheels had alot of play in them,like the bearings were bad. But the car is new.

Well, went to the track and blow out the rear bearings. LOL, put new ones in and the play is still there.

Has this happen to anyone eles.
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Old 02-26-2005, 09:25 AM   #7650
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I've seen the rear hub carriers theirselfs be molded to large and the brgs fit loose. also check the axle shafts. ALso buy good brgs, the brgs are too small diameter I think and the AE brgs SUCKS.

Here a few car pics, I thinhk I figured the camera out!
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