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Old 06-17-2002, 08:13 AM   #736
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Sorry if I'm being ignorant but what is this mod supposed to do? Why are you putting these screws in through the diff housing? Is something happening or is it to improve performance? Just a little lost is all....
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Old 06-17-2002, 09:58 AM   #737
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The screws are for extra support for the shocktowers they are prone to work loose. Without using spacers with the diff screws all your doing is binding the tower and it will work loose again. Like PW said he can see the tower move when tightened down. If you can see it move it will eventually work loose. I have been using my mod for over a month now and the towers are just as tight as they were when installed. Use 4/40 threaded rod and the Ae blue alum nuts and it will not work loose. The threaded rod is like a stud and less prone to work loose versus screws. Tighten the 3 others screws down first then make sure the tubing is flush with the top of the tower, if not cut the tubing to the right length,(.795 I think), think about it, thats all you want to do is tighten it down to its orginal positon not above or below. My way is rigid not flexable like PW method. Anything flexable will work loose.
Just my .02 worth!!!!


Last edited by bbntc3; 06-17-2002 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 06-17-2002, 10:34 AM   #738
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Default Sticky Tranny

Hi guys. I just finished my NTC3 and everything looks great except for one thing...the tranny doesn't seem very "free." When I assembled the 2spd tranny, it was a bit of work to get the 1st gear hub pushed down far enough to be able to get the c-clip on. now both 1st and 2nd gear hubs turn but not very freely. Anyone else have this problem? Any solutions? I've taken it apart and rebuilt it twice now and it's still the same.
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Old 06-17-2002, 01:47 PM   #739
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Talking bbntc3

bbntc3, good tip on the tranny case!!! I will add a piece of tubing on mine this week!!! Big race this weekend, hate to be fouled by the old loose or broken diff case!!!

Thanks for part number on axle-I ordered it from LHS and got it!!!

Thanks again,
Ray
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Old 06-17-2002, 08:31 PM   #740
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You have a bad two speed shaft . They have been having machining problems. Matter of fact I found on closer inspection that one of my steering posts had the hole drilled off-center!
Here's a picture--bad steering
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Old 06-17-2002, 09:17 PM   #741
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Anyone know if AE is even going to conisder spinning there near plastic Pivot Balls out of harden steel? I know im asking a stupid question. I got the Titanium units on order....

Funny that i ran serpent and xray for a year and never so much as bent a pivot ball made of steel..

Got a RPM bumper on backorder too..
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Old 06-18-2002, 08:24 AM   #742
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Arrow Hardening!!

Steel, aluminuim, Titanium... It doesnt really mattter what the material, if they don not get a good enough grade or propery hardened material, you will be able to bend or shatter any material. But regardless, Associated did not pick a very god steel for there pivot balls. In my opinion, a material that is more rigid than what they have, but will yield a little bit before breaking would be best.
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Old 06-18-2002, 09:56 AM   #743
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That's weird we have only broken 1 rear arm since Dec. I switched to the ti pivot balls and have'nt bent them or the steel ones and my car has been really slammed!!!!!!!! I have bent the chassis though its like earlier reported it will bend in the engine mt. area. I think Ae has cut to much mat. out for the pullstart version. Just got the GH Chassis and it looks very sweet!!!!! Don't care much about the harden alum color but should be very rigid. Anybody else worked with the chassis? If so how much setup change?
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Old 06-18-2002, 12:27 PM   #744
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Quote:
Originally posted by OB42TC3
You have a bad two speed shaft . They have been having machining problems. Matter of fact I found on closer inspection that one of my steering posts had the hole drilled off-center!
Here's a picture--bad steering
Well, that blows. I guess I need to go get a new one. I also had a similar problem to yours with a steering post. Except mine wasn't threaded all the way in. So instead of waiting to get a new one, I dremeled the screw down and used lots of loctite. Sheesh! This car better run well. LOL
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Old 06-18-2002, 01:43 PM   #745
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Default Front Roll bar!!

Have any of you guys devised a solution to be able to quickly change the front adjustable roll bar in the pits?? Right now you have to take off bumper to change it. Just looking for someones bright mind at work!!!!
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Old 06-18-2002, 02:38 PM   #746
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The chassis on both versions i identical?? NO?
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Old 06-18-2002, 06:09 PM   #747
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If your talking about changing the setting on the bar, buy the blue alum. mts the set screw is in the bottom of the mt. so you don't have to remove anything. AE# 1717 thats what you want.
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Old 06-18-2002, 08:26 PM   #748
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Quote:
Originally posted by rod_b


Well, that blows. I guess I need to go get a new one. I also had a similar problem to yours with a steering post. Except mine wasn't threaded all the way in. So instead of waiting to get a new one, I dremeled the screw down and used lots of loctite. Sheesh! This car better run well. LOL

Yes it does; call tech support and have them send you a new one; my buddy destroyed all the gears and a diff case after the e-clip came loose, you'll also notice how much freer the drivetrain is.
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Old 06-18-2002, 08:33 PM   #749
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bbntc3:

I have been racing the GH chassis for about a month and love it. I would say no changes from your stock chassis setup...

Good Luck!!!
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Old 06-19-2002, 10:32 AM   #750
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Default GH chassis

Can you send a link for the chassis pics and info?? My stock chassis is okay for now, but you never know when the next 50mph radio glitch is about to happen!!!
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