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Old 12-29-2004, 08:54 AM   #7411
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Default .08m

can somebody explain what advantage this has? i am guessing that this goes on the pinion, i have the 3shoe fly and love and in no way am thinnking about chaning to centax, but would be nice to know what the whole hipe is about on this matter, thanks in advance
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Old 12-29-2004, 03:28 PM   #7412
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Default Re: .08m

Quote:
Originally posted by rene
can somebody explain what advantage this has? i am guessing that this goes on the pinion, i have the 3shoe fly and love and in no way am thinnking about chaning to centax, but would be nice to know what the whole hipe is about on this matter, thanks in advance
0.8 Module is best to descirbe the pitch size of the pinion and spur both.........
And still, no one can confirm NTC3 is really TRUE 0.8 module, however, my Mugen Syntec's 0.8 module clutch and pinion does work on the NTC3 spur.......so I think NTC3 is very close to 0.8 module.

And no, you don't need to use Centax...2 shoes and 3 shoes are just fine.

Ppl like me just like to spend money on cars for things like centax....is that a big different? no....but centax give me a little bit more SOLID punch, and I hardly need to replace the clutch shoes unlike the AE 2 shoes or 3 shoes.
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Old 12-29-2004, 09:02 PM   #7413
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I can't help with rubber tire set ups I quit using rubber 4 years ago. I race short tracks too and I use 3 to 5 mm front and rear at the hubs, so by the setting at the arm my setting would be what 1 or 2 mm less than my actual reading??? I usually run 3mm at the hubs front and 4 to 5 at the rear, so I gues that's sorta backwards. But hey... what ever works for ya!! The less droop in the rear ( - ) the more traction in the rear to me, it won't transfer as much weight to the front. I've always had to fight lose in the rear and very little problems with steering and a push in the front. I never paid much attention to Ae or Bakers settings. The Ae settings is a good starting point I guess. Baker is Da man though!!! Hell I have tried his setups and most of the time the car was so out of control I counld'nt even drive it! Most his and Ae setting is for the Perfect track and perfect conditions to me, so how often are we blessed with these conditons??? Not very often!! So their setting are of no use to me. But I'm sure that's just me. (driving style)

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Old 12-29-2004, 11:33 PM   #7414
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Hello again yes the guy who said the screws loose on the steering rack a while back was absolutely spoton, but now I have encountered a new problem which I have asked many so called "experts" around here to fix and they are all at a loss so I am trying here as a last resort

OKIES here goes

ok I am running a rtr + with the ae .15 engine with a rotary carb (stock) and am having trouble balancing idle vs wot as in when I set the idle mix and gap (low speed needle and throttle %) it then will not go 100% wot, when I set it to go 100% throttle the idle is miles too high does anybody know how I can get both happening
its almost as if my servo arm doesnt swing enough

BTW my throttle brake linkages can be seen at : http://www.rcefnet.com/displayimage....10003&pos=-176 (if this will help you to explain your answer)

I appreciate the time people have taken to help me who frequent this thread and I am trying to do as much as I can myself preventing the need to post really lame questions
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Old 12-30-2004, 05:24 AM   #7415
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Droop Settings:

The more droop you have in the rear, the more the car will transfer weight to the front when slowing for a corner (off power). The more droop you have in the front, the more the car will understeer under power.

If you think about the ruler balanced on a cylinder, when we stop one end (rear) from raising up, less of the ruler's weight will be on the other end (front). If you allow more of the ruler to raise up on the 'front' end, the more weight you get on the 'rear' end. This is simple physics, but I think if you actually get out a ruler and a tube of some sort and do these experiments, you will get it.

As for setting the droop, either compensate for the additional distance from the hub height to the arm height, or set it as per the manual and then test it after the hubs are on and use these as your base measurements.

Setting throttle end points:

With the throttle set closed and with a small gap (the width of a piece of paper or cardboard so you know the throttle is closed) and the engine off and no air filter so you can see what's happening, adjust the throttle end point on your transmitter until you see WOT. If you don't get enough servo throw, move the throttle actuator in a hole or two on the servo horn until you see WOT. Some carbs have multiple holes where the throttle arm connects, the closer you go to the point of roatation, the more throw you will see.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:43 AM   #7416
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Quote:
Originally posted by wayne
Hello again yes the guy who said the screws loose on the steering rack a while back was absolutely spoton, but now I have encountered a new problem which I have asked many so called "experts" around here to fix and they are all at a loss so I am trying here as a last resort

OKIES here goes

ok I am running a rtr + with the ae .15 engine with a rotary carb (stock) and am having trouble balancing idle vs wot as in when I set the idle mix and gap (low speed needle and throttle %) it then will not go 100% wot, when I set it to go 100% throttle the idle is miles too high does anybody know how I can get both happening
its almost as if my servo arm doesnt swing enough

BTW my throttle brake linkages can be seen at : http://www.rcefnet.com/displayimage....10003&pos=-176 (if this will help you to explain your answer)

I appreciate the time people have taken to help me who frequent this thread and I am trying to do as much as I can myself preventing the need to post really lame questions
O.K. assuming that you have checked the radio settings and the ATV isn't limiting sevo travel, the best way I can see to fix the problem is to move the linkage position on the servo horn.
I would flip the little plastic bit that the linkage rod goes through over so the rod is on the engine side of the screw. That should give a little more travel at the carb. Or if there is a hole on the servo horn further out , use that or find a longer horn.
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Old 12-30-2004, 04:25 PM   #7417
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Default Thanks Fellas

Quote:
Originally posted by Z00M


With the throttle set closed and with a small gap (the width of a piece of paper or cardboard so you know the throttle is closed) and the engine off and no air filter so you can see what's happening, adjust the throttle end point on your transmitter until you see WOT. If you don't get enough servo throw, move the throttle actuator in a hole or two on the servo horn until you see WOT. Some carbs have multiple holes where the throttle arm connects, the closer you go to the point of roatation, the more throw you will see.

Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Mike.
Yes I have taken this into consideration, and short of "drilling" a hole closer to the center point of the ahh "arm that twists carb" I cannot move this arm lower, a replacement arm on the carb may help perhaps.. I appreciate the Suggestion

Quote:
Originally posted by UNSTABLE

O.K. assuming that you have checked the radio settings and the ATV isn't limiting sevo travel, the best way I can see to fix the problem is to move the linkage position on the servo horn.
I would flip the little plastic bit that the linkage rod goes through over so the rod is on the engine side of the screw. That should give a little more travel at the carb. Or if there is a hole on the servo horn further out , use that or find a longer horn.
hmm this is the answer I came up with in my mind (twisting the black plastic part around), although I didnt consider a longer servo horn, Looking at the amount of clearance the throttle arm has in respect to pull start etc... it could be only slightly longer at best unfortunately. Again thankyou for this suggestion and now I have some fiddling to do

your responses tell me that I am not the first to come accross this problem (and I bet I won't be the last) and it can be overcome

Furthermore I wonder why AE sold the car in this configuration, maybe they are unaware of this problem
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Old 12-31-2004, 12:33 PM   #7418
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Default Al outdrives

Anyone try the aluminum etc3 outdrives on their nitro? Did they bend?
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Old 12-31-2004, 10:01 PM   #7419
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Electric TC diffs are narrower than the nitro diffs.
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Old 12-31-2004, 10:18 PM   #7420
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So it wont fit?
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Old 12-31-2004, 10:23 PM   #7421
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The CVD's would be to short and you would give up the ATD diff properties. The electric diffs don't have the slipper disk inside them.
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Old 12-31-2004, 11:18 PM   #7422
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You can make the etc3 diffs work. you have to use parts from both nitro and electric parts. Never tried the alum outdrives though, the NTC drives are longer. All I'll say is AE said the electric diff won't hold up, but man ... it works good in the front, it's not a one way or a solid spool, but the cvds will last longer, (less twisting the cvd and stripping the ring and pinion) you have brakes, you can damn near lock it up like a spool, but theres just enough slip where the drive train in the front will live, theres less slip than a atd diff and that seems to be the answer for us and short track racing
. With the High HP engines and the lower gearing, we have a lot front gears stripped and cvds twisted out. You just have to service the diffs alittle more then the ATD diffs ( they will melt) Take both diffs and take them apart and figure out what you have to do to make it all work! They will work!! But alittle work is envolved!

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Old 01-03-2005, 02:20 AM   #7423
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Default My project has finished

Guys just want to share my NTC3 to you finally finished nice track performer also. The only thing that i have to do is try them out with some TRF shocks i hate the AE units they are so fussy to work on.
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Old 01-03-2005, 02:32 AM   #7424
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Default Spool set up

Has anyone tried a solid front sxle in the NTC3 yet? Can someone share there experience with it. How did the car react? And what sort of track was it run on big or small? And might as well share your setup
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Old 01-03-2005, 05:08 AM   #7425
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Default Re: My project has finished

Quote:
Originally posted by FUK_WRX
Guys just want to share my NTC3 to you finally finished nice track performer also. The only thing that i have to do is try them out with some TRF shocks i hate the AE units they are so fussy to work on.

what have u done to the car?i can't see anything really unusual.
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