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Old 12-16-2004, 07:42 PM   #7351
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rich Panganiban
ttso, 4 v2 hubs...maybe you need to buy an 1/8 buggy for as much as you crash
I guess it's just bad luck hit with incorrect angle of crash (what I'm talking about )
The hit is very minor one, just a small sideslip click on wall. But yet, the Ti screw penetrate the V2 rear hub upper link column. 4 all damaged in the same way. But that's with 12mm screw. After replace a longer 15mm screw, it never happen again.
(yep, i replace most of screw on my NTC3 with metric Ti screw, easier to find at my place)

Luck is very important factor when u crash something....
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Old 12-16-2004, 08:06 PM   #7352
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firstly phew! I was thinking for a minute there that I should have spent the extra and got a factory team ntc3 (cause of durability), but for my first nitro car, I thought it would be overkill I chose the rtr + which comes out of the box with an ae .15 ,2 speed, glo igniter and a fuel filler bottle, I just thought that as I am going to require al the setup gear eg tweakstation toe guage etc etc I thought it would be wise to save a bit on the car itself, I mean whats stopping me from gradually hopping it up until it matches a ft ntc3 ?? as for the factory setup not suiting racing I'm not so sure at the moment I raced 4 times, and each time I tried to improve setup, I ended up making it worse and reverting to factory chassis settings, I really think I need a tweakstation and a toe guage minimum to set it up with any degree of accuracy also I have the setup e-book from ae and am still continuing to learn from it

I appreciate the more experienced out there taking the time to answer my questions and to help steer me in the right direction
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Old 12-17-2004, 12:40 AM   #7353
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Wayne...
When youre just starting out, one thing you`ll find really helpful in setting up the car is a basic camber gauge.
With this you`ll be able to set the camber and toe on the car which should get it somewhere in the ballpark to handling reasonably well.
Here`s a few suggestions to start with-
Front toe......0.5 deg toe-out
front camber...... -1 deg
Rear toe...... 2 deg toe-in
rear camber....... 2 deg toe-in
Ride height..... 5.5mm front & rear
2 speed adjustment....... 4 and a half turns out on each spring.
Hope these help give you a bit of a starting point from which to fine-tune.
Cheers
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Old 12-17-2004, 12:41 AM   #7354
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Oops....typo there, make that
- 2 deg rear camber
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Old 12-17-2004, 01:30 AM   #7355
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rich Panganiban
ttso wrote,


ttso, 4 v2 hubs...maybe you need to buy an 1/8 buggy for as much as you crash

Fuk_Wrx, That's true with regards to the exhaust manifold, but you won't find too many high performance side exhaust engines on the market. In all honesty, for the serious racer, you can't beat the rear exhaust setup even with the NTC3 configuration. Buy the rear exhaust engine, you won't be disappointed!
Thanks ill keep that in mind in thatcase ill keep my CVR
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Old 12-17-2004, 04:17 AM   #7356
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Nearly there

Quote:
Originally posted by AndyT
Wayne...
When youre just starting out, one thing you`ll find really helpful in setting up the car is a basic camber gauge.
With this you`ll be able to set the camber and toe on the car which should get it somewhere in the ballpark to handling reasonably well.
Here`s a few suggestions to start with-
Front toe......0.5 deg toe-out
front camber...... -1 deg
Rear toe...... 2 deg toe-in
rear camber....... 2 deg toe-in
Ride height..... 5.5mm front & rear
2 speed adjustment....... 4 and a half turns out on each spring.
Hope these help give you a bit of a starting point from which to fine-tune.
Cheers
firstly are these settings for foams or rubbers, I have to use rubbers (class restriction)

thanks for these settings, at the risk of causing irritation I have one last question : my kit also came with an ae camber guage (flat plastic thing almost square with numbers in the corners) and moulded tools, with this I can set rear toe and camber and front camber how can front toe be set with this, to set rear toe you stand the car on its back end upright to set it as per instructions

if I look at it logically I suppose you could stand it on its "nose" and use the same technique to set toe on the front, but this would be a pita, how can you set toe with this flat peice of plastic especially toe out?????

Thanks again for your time AndyT
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Old 12-17-2004, 05:43 AM   #7357
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I am not sure whether AE gauge can be used to measure toe in. But RPM has a toe in gauge.

NTC3 factory team kit is not more durable than RTR. In fact, it is more fragile due to the graphite components. (Graphite is lighter, less flex, but more fragile). What u gain in factory kit is light weight, less chassis flex and blue eye candy (useless in racing).

When u race in large track, what u need to make the RTR competitive is to change the engine, change the pinion and 2 speed spur (very cheap), get a starter box (u may want it anyway for your RTR to save u from pulling the cord).

Last edited by raceblast; 12-17-2004 at 05:53 AM.
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Old 12-17-2004, 07:32 AM   #7358
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I am going to rebuild the shocks. In order to get to the o ring, what tool do u use to take out the VC foam and bobbin from the shock body? Do u also replace the VC foam and bobbin when rebuilding the shocks?
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:08 AM   #7359
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raceblast, Team Associated makes a little shock tool that is helpful when assembling your shocks. In your case, you're disassembling it, you can use the end of the allen wrench to remove the locking seal...Being CAREFUL not to scratch the shock body. Also replace the foam volume compensators as well, it all comes in the rebuild kit.

Wayne, the setting Andy T gave you is a good starting point. The main difference between rubber and foam setups is really the firmness of your suspension. I tend to run lighter oil and springs for rubber tires, and firmer for foams. For toe-out, measure the very front of the front tires with a ruler, then measure the rear portion of the front tires. Do the measurement with the car at race weight and sitting on a flat surface. Hope that helps.
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Old 12-17-2004, 09:13 AM   #7360
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Do I push the end of allen driver from the bottom of the shock body thro' the shaft hole onto the rubber seal to get the foam and bobbin out?
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Old 12-17-2004, 11:41 AM   #7361
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Yes, just push carefully from underneath the shock. All you need to do is push the plastic piece that holds the seals in. Once that's far enough up the shock, you should be able to shake the rest of the internals out.
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Old 12-17-2004, 03:39 PM   #7362
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Default Re: Nearly there

Quote:
Originally posted by wayne
firstly are these settings for foams or rubbers, I have to use rubbers (class restriction)

thanks for these settings, at the risk of causing irritation I have one last question : my kit also came with an ae camber guage (flat plastic thing almost square with numbers in the corners) and moulded tools, with this I can set rear toe and camber and front camber how can front toe be set with this, to set rear toe you stand the car on its back end upright to set it as per instructions

if I look at it logically I suppose you could stand it on its "nose" and use the same technique to set toe on the front, but this would be a pita, how can you set toe with this flat peice of plastic especially toe out?????

Thanks again for your time AndyT
Yep, these settings are for foams...if youre in Sydney and keen on racing on foams, Eastern Creek, Moorebank and Penrith clubs all use them.
The "stand on nose technique" could be used, but its tricky as you`ll have to ensure the rear is perfectly level so that the settings dont vary if you "rock" the car from side to side whilst doing the adjustments.....maybe a helper could hold the car in position for this?
Cheers
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Old 12-17-2004, 03:46 PM   #7363
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Quote:
Originally posted by raceblast
I am going to rebuild the shocks. In order to get to the o ring, what tool do u use to take out the VC foam and bobbin from the shock body? Do u also replace the VC foam and bobbin when rebuilding the shocks?
If the VC foam and bobbin arent damaged, I`ll generally re-use them.
I find using an allen driver (gently ) to push the bobbin through from the underside of the shock usually works. You should then be able to shake the red o-rings out, or if theyre stubborn "fish" them out with an allen driver.
Cheers
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Old 12-18-2004, 01:01 AM   #7364
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Exclamation Is something wrong?

hello again, I took my ntc3 out today and used approximately 1/2 litre of fuel it was running great, almost didnt want to stop, but anyway when I got home I noticed something that disturbed me : the tyres on the exhaust side front and rear have been really really punished by comparison to the ones on the other side is there a chassis setting wrong or is this normal

I checked the camber (front and rear) and the toe (rear) it seems ok

also : the car just refused outright to track straight, I think the toe is messed up if this is the case there be no more till I get a toe guage and some tyres
<<sigh>>
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Old 12-18-2004, 01:12 AM   #7365
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what happened to ur tires?my car also doesn't seem to track straight.still waiting to get a setup system
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