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Old 11-28-2004, 04:13 AM   #7276
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Quote:
Originally posted by rrgt_kid
...i like this car to much it is handling way better than my mtx 3.
What's your setup on the car?
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Old 11-28-2004, 09:24 AM   #7277
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It's not the mani. heating the fuel in the tank. I forget what the boiling point is for nitro, but its not that. I went through all this a year or so ago. The problem is what I stated below, crankshaft over heating. When Dennis Richey work with the NTC3 this is one of the conclusions he came up with, so I kept working in these areas I stated till I fixed it. ( well fixed it for me) Look for all the problems everyone has stated. I never could get the car to run the right way on any of the AE pipes.

Like I said try and richen the bottom , richen the main about half as much as you do the bottom. Get a good trail of smoke. Does it seem to bog off on the bottom and loose some power after the first say 3 or 4 mins??. If so the problem is the bottom to lean. It may be hard to get the tuning good with the the highest gearing in the car you may have to compromise. I had the same problems for a long time was about to throw the car away!! But after, BMI chassis, K-factory clutch (3 shoe) and K- fuel tank,
RD pipe and some trick engine timing for short track use all our problems went away. We've ran 6 to 7 tanks of fuel at one time in testing without shutting the engine off and no problems. I can't help you much on long track use, we race short tracks with straights no longer than 110'.
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Old 11-29-2004, 04:05 PM   #7278
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I run a x.12 with a RD pipe. I'm looking for some thing that, I can do to get a better fit with the manifold and engine.

Is there a fatter gasket or something.

Thanks
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Old 11-29-2004, 05:06 PM   #7279
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only thing I know is serpent mani gaskets, or maybe .15 engine mani gaskets. regular 12 gaskets wil not work you have to use RD gaskets.
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Old 11-29-2004, 07:19 PM   #7280
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RRGT-
I raced here (Sydney)on Saturday and was experiencing very similar symptoms to yours (on my RB v12) in the oppressive heat we were having (track temp 146.3 deg f at one stage).
I just kept getting constant flameouts after a few laps....good smoketrail etc then flameout.
I spoke to a few other guys who were running RB V12`s and they commented that they had really richened up their motors to counteract the heat, were running #5 plugs.....and were seriously struggling to get 5 minutes of runtime out of a tank of fuel due to running so rich.
For the final i took their advice, richened the main RIGHT up....then adjusted the low end quite lean, fitted a #4 plug (its the only one i had besides the #6`s i`d ran whilst flaming out.
Anyway, the car ran very well throughout the final and no flameout...
I`m running the AE pipe, but have heard mention of others not being too impressed with their performance in the conditions that exist here....hmm werks pipe maybe the solution?
Cheers Andy
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Old 11-29-2004, 09:11 PM   #7281
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Thanks,

bbnt3 I'll see if RD has a better gasket.

AndyT Not have flameout or performance problems. Its just a cleaning problem LOL . With the AE pipe I didn't get as much exhaust inside the car. But I do like the performance of the RD pipe better. Well I gess I can't have them both

Thanks again,
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Old 11-30-2004, 08:13 PM   #7282
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Are you using the RD gasket that came with the pipe, kinda brown in color?? If so maybe try a new one or get serpent or 15 gaskets like I said. Also apply alittle silicone greese to the seal before attaching the pipe, to help it slide. Mine never leaks at the head or the spring connector but that K-tank blows fuel out the lid that can't be stopped. But the better tuning is worth it.
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Old 12-01-2004, 03:21 PM   #7283
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I did not get a gasket with pipe. But I will get a .15 gasket, that should do the trick.

Thanks man
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Old 12-02-2004, 06:58 AM   #7284
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Default Weekend project

Since this weekend it seems certainly raining, I decide to start my little mod project on NTC3 V2 rear, inspired by SMP Slide rear:


Im going to drill a 2mm hole on rear hub, and mount the lower end of shock directly on the rear hub, just like SMP Slide. The attached photo shows the location of new shock lower mount will be.

I'm not sure what kind of driving characteristic it will be, anyone did similer mod before? (but hell it does looks good anyway..)
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Old 12-02-2004, 07:00 AM   #7285
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Default Weekend project, photo

forgot to attach the photo..

note: nope, it's not finished. i just use double tab to secure the lower end to see how it going to be, and where to drill.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg plan-1(small).jpg (56.2 KB, 155 views)
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Old 12-02-2004, 08:50 AM   #7286
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ttso, let us know how that works. My guess, is that you will pick up a ton of side bite when exiting the corner. I don't know about you guys, but I'm always trying to get rid of that characteristic. I'm always looking to get the rear end to "loosen" up and rotate more. I've actually gone to the Bud's thicker swaybar to help facilitate that.
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Old 12-02-2004, 09:54 PM   #7287
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Hey guys found a place to pick up K-parts here in the US at a good price thought I'd let you know.

http://www.powerlineracing.com/index...S&Category=249
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Old 12-04-2004, 11:11 AM   #7288
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BBNTC3,
Have you tried the Yokomo Centax? I'm having some slipage issues with the 3 shoe setup? I was told to try the 3 shoe with (2) 2 1/2mm holes drilled in each shoe with the copper springs for harder engagement on accelleration. It has great accelleration but, after 2-3 minutes, I can hear something slipping. I think the clutchbell starts to heat up and begins to slip. I verified that the tranny and the spurs are not stripped. It could only be the clutch or two speed housing. I'm going to try the 2 shoe and see what happens. If that fails, I will install a new two speed housing and if that fails, I shell out $100 for the Yoke Centax. I need something that can handle the Murnan EVOII.
Any suggestions would be appreciated,
Dave
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Old 12-04-2004, 12:07 PM   #7289
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I would say: GO CENTAX DIRECTLY. It's a cheaper shortcut compare with your "complex route"...

Although I'm not using Yokomo NTC3 Centax but HN LS36 (known as OFNA CD3/LD3 Centax in States), but I'm very happy with the performance improvement it gave (faster accelration, higher topspeed). Will Centax damage the gears or other parts? I don't know, but so far everything is good (or damaged by myself...)

But you do need to re-tune the 2speed and carefully tune the Centax setting after you put a Centax on NTC3.


Yokomo NTC3 Centax is basiclly in the same configuration with MTX3 Centax. But with MTX3 Centax (or HN LS36, which also in the same confiration with MTX3 Centax), you need some shim works to correctly install it. So if you don't want to do the complex works, it's a good idea to go Yokomo NTC3 Centax although it's more expensive than MTX3 Centax.
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Old 12-04-2004, 12:18 PM   #7290
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You should try the Mugen red shoe, that should eliminate slippage
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