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Old 11-24-2004, 06:55 AM   #7261
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Sorry, forgot to attach the photo.
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Old 11-24-2004, 07:02 AM   #7262
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And here is what my car looks like after Werks pipe installed. As I said, it's a BIG pipe...
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Old 11-24-2004, 05:20 PM   #7263
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Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
And here is what my car looks like after Werks pipe installed. As I said, it's a BIG pipe...
looks pretty nice, how does the pipe perform? did you face any engine tuning challenge?
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Old 11-24-2004, 09:52 PM   #7264
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Soc_123: You guys can't use higher nitro content fuel?? If you could go to 25 or 30% fuel I'll bet your flaming problem would go away. I seen this with the Rody and the new V12's. Switch them to at least 25% fuel and it went away.
WHen it flames out have you notice when trying to restart, and it don't refire seeing the fuel drain back into the tank from the carb ?? If you never really look for this, next time you have problems watch for this, and let, me know if it does. What's the head clearance? What's the shim thickness ? Maybe lower the clearance if possible. I'm sure you know this but just some thought.
Iif you don't use the K tank, maybe invest in one.

Glad the pipe seems like it will work! It looks to be the best pipe yet for the car, at least now it looks like a rc car! And not a car with bladder issues! LOL
Its turniing winter here very fast, expecting snow tommorrow!! What a BITCH!!!

ttso: Nice car!!

I'll try and gets some pics of my car here shortly, working on our RC10GT onroad truck now. The GT is very trick piece! New Era chassis with upper deck, RB 5 port turbo, Klein Racing EDM sprint car shocktowers, TC3 shocks 50mm wide foams.
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Old 11-24-2004, 10:58 PM   #7265
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BB unfortunatly I cant run any more than 16% nitro. The class I race in is tightly scrutineered to AARCMCC rules (very similar to IFMAR) At most other race meets except Nationals & State titles I could run whatever I like, so i will give some 25% a go at one of those races. I havent played with head clearances because I am only running the 16%. All the European mills are shimmed accordingly to start with, so that is an area I have never bothered with too much. Any recommendations would be appreciated & I could give it a try. I am running an RB#6 plug I could also go back to a #5, but when I ran it on the weekend the #5 that was in it died on the first WOT run. So I changed to a #6 the plug could have been due to give up anyway I suppose.
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Old 11-24-2004, 11:01 PM   #7266
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I almost forgot, I have seen the fuel draining back to the tank. When it does that it is a bitch to restart. I usually just hold a finger over the stinger until it goes back the other way. If you have a solution for that problem, I am all ears (or eyes this being a written forum )
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Old 11-25-2004, 12:41 AM   #7267
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I run with 25% nitro but used to have random flameout problem, and fuel drain back to tank. After pressure chamber installed, flameout never happen (unless I set a really wrong needle setting ) I guess you should give the pressure chamber a shot.
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Old 11-25-2004, 02:50 AM   #7268
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Hey soc, with the flameouts and fuel running the wrong way, I experienced this last weekend trying to tune my new motor.

The flameouts only happened in slow parts of the track and when pitting.

I found that by turning the midrange needle anti clockwise about 1/8th of a turn solved the problem and also stopped the fuel from being stubborn about going up to the carb.

Not sure if your RB has a 3 needle carb but if it does then maybe play around with this setting a little.

I watched one of the dudes at the club that has a lot of experience in tuning motors tune one for a guy and I found that with this new knowledge that I am now able to understand more clearly what's going on.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 11-25-2004, 04:46 AM   #7269
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Quote:
Originally posted by Z00M
Hey soc, with the flameouts and fuel running the wrong way, I experienced this last weekend trying to tune my new motor.

The flameouts only happened in slow parts of the track and when pitting.

I found that by turning the midrange needle anti clockwise about 1/8th of a turn solved the problem and also stopped the fuel from being stubborn about going up to the carb.

Not sure if your RB has a 3 needle carb but if it does then maybe play around with this setting a little.

I watched one of the dudes at the club that has a lot of experience in tuning motors tune one for a guy and I found that with this new knowledge that I am now able to understand more clearly what's going on.

Cheers,

Mike.
yup this is one way to cure overheated carb. But when you richen the MSN, the LSN now will be richen by that same amount, remember to adjust the idle too. In conclusion you are effectively richening the low end and advancing the point where the low speed transition to mid speed.
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Old 11-25-2004, 09:50 AM   #7270
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The fuel running back into the fuel tank is one of those thermal issues I have spoken of before. I don't why turning the mid seat in help some of you, unless it was'nt tuned right. And why some cars have this problem others do not, I can't tell you. All the mid does is change fuel flow down the throat to the crank. But you richened the mid, by just turning it out and not moving the LS in. When ever you move the mid, you also must turn the LS needle the same amount of turns the opposite way to keep the fuel mixture the same. You have to be a very good tuner to play in this area.

The fuel running back into the tank is not carb overheating, its crankshaft overheating. When the crank gets overheated it won't allow fuel to enter the passage, it boils it and sends it back into the tank. Been there, seen that, done that!. What you guys are missing is it over heating in the midrange area, everyone checks temp , but its not really that accurate. Temp. could be ok when you flame out and check it but.. may be say 300 degrees or higher when it was running in the midrange. Fuel is so hot and theres so much turbulance in the crankcase that fuel is blowing by and right out the pipe and flooding the plug. That's why you need to tune by ear and smoke, and not temp. If you have little to mild smoke all the way through the power band, temps don't worry about temps that much., If it looses power after a few minutes into a race then richen LS jet 1/4 turn at a time and the HS about 1/8 turn.

The car just don't disapate heat in the engine area that well, for some reason.
The BMI chassis routes air to the bottom area of the engine and helps this problem . The chassis also eliminates most of the vibration problems the stock chassis has, which inturn stops all the fuel shaking in the tank and causing air bubles in the tank and fuel line. ( you can't tune air), Use the K-tank, it allows a more even fuel delivery, which inturn makes tuning easier and more consistant. Use a short 90 or 45 degree coupling and get the airfilter out from behind the head! ( I use a 45degree coupling ) Even though the filter is'nt out that far away from the head the air is cooler than the air coming directing off the head, It does'nt have to be out that far, just make sure the air filter itself clears the outer side of the head, and cut both side windows out of the car. Once you do this and get the right plug you can tune the car and get it fixed. Theres a fine line with needle setting to me. I've found running the bottom alittle rich also will help.

I talk alot about the BMI chassis and we are in no way sponcered by BMI, its just the top of the line chassis for the car. Jason has took all the racers who own these chassis's input and kept making it better and better. I don't think you can get it any better!

Hope this help!

Last edited by bbntc3; 11-27-2004 at 07:35 AM.
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Old 11-25-2004, 06:52 PM   #7271
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If anyone else here is interested in the WERKS pipes, Werks racing will only sell retail on the web, they have some pipes that were water damaged (the boxes were damaged) thay have a D after the part number. Heres a place to get the pipe at competitive prices. No website, but heres a number. RC UNLIMITED
408-377-3771.

Last edited by bbntc3; 11-27-2004 at 06:50 AM.
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Old 11-27-2004, 04:16 PM   #7272
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Default fuel tunig issue

my motor keeps on running lean!
i was running yesterday and it kept on flaming out it goes good for 5min prac before the race nice fine smoke trail! and when the race starts it flames out and its a real bitch to get going again!! why????

i run a novarossi 2003 S3 motor #6g short turbo plug extra shim (0.1) 12 % oil fuel 16% nitro content AE dual chamber pipe k factory tank fuel pressure nipple on pipe re routed to front chamber!

can some one please help????

jeremy
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Old 11-27-2004, 09:25 PM   #7273
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rrgt_kid, check for air leaks. I would check the o-rings in your carb, then the one on the back plate.
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Old 11-27-2004, 10:51 PM   #7274
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why another shim with only 16% fuel???
Remove the extra shim, .3 mm is all you should need. check for air leaks. Richen the bottom end 1/4th to 1/2 turn, richen main needle 1/8 th to 1/4. If this is worse go the other way maybe, also look for leaking exhaust mani fold seal. I've also seen the clutch shoes wear into the flywheel and stick some and cause it to stall and not start back up. Are you sure its going lean??.
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Old 11-28-2004, 03:22 AM   #7275
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
why another shim with only 16% fuel???
Remove the extra shim, .3 mm is all you should need. check for air leaks. Richen the bottom end 1/4th to 1/2 turn, richen main needle 1/8 th to 1/4. If this is worse go the other way maybe, also look for leaking exhaust mani fold seal. I've also seen the clutch shoes wear into the flywheel and stick some and cause it to stall and not start back up. Are you sure its going lean??.
thanx for the reply bbntc3 i will check all these things you have said the reason why i put the extra shim in is because to keep the engine temp a little cooler and to get a bit more top peak out of the motor! i run the highest gearing. what i also notice when flame out was occured the fuel went straight back from the carby back to the tank and it was a bitch to re start!!! wich cost me 3 minutes of the race i have also noticed a bit of wear on the flywheel where the clutch shoes run up and down. the clutch shoes have been cut 3mm from the ends and also have drilled two 3mm holes in each, also using copper clutch springs. So you dont think its the k factory fuel tank causing it becasue the way the fuel line that goes to the carby is so close to the manifold????? i thought it could be because the heat fom the manifold is heating the fuel in the tank?

i like this car to much it is handling way better than my mtx 3.
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