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Old 11-18-2004, 04:47 PM   #7231
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http://www.bmiracing.com/contactus.php

These guys can hook you up with the fix
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Old 11-18-2004, 08:39 PM   #7232
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I just emailed them about my BMI chassis with steering issues and all I get is a mailbomb. So far so bad.
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Old 11-18-2004, 08:56 PM   #7233
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Someone has copied the BMI (The Fix) on ebay, but they made the alum hold down nuts out of brass. Also, they are $2 cheaper. Do a NTC3 search .
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:08 PM   #7234
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BBNTC3,

Have you had a chance to try the Werks pipe? Any feedback would be appreciated. Almost $90 bucks though! Yikes!!!

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:35 PM   #7235
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Quote:
Originally posted by soc123_au
http://www.bmiracing.com/contactus.php

These guys can hook you up with the fix
OK, sent the e-mail. Does anyone have a picture of what BMI is selling? Or just someone let me in on what the heck is wrong with the stock pieces.
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Old 11-19-2004, 02:50 AM   #7236
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'The fix' mod that is being referred to is related to strengthening the front end.

It basically uses two very long screws to go from the bottom of the chassis, through the diff cases and then through the shock tower to where some nuts are applied. This effectively makes the shock tower mount solidly to the chassis.

Without the mod, if you hit things (boards, kerbs, small children, etc) with the front of the car, there is a tendency to rip the shock tower off the diff case, damaging both the diff case and the shock tower.

If you do a search on ebay for 'NTC3 Fix' you will see what it's all about. You could also look back through this forum and you will see it there also.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 11-19-2004, 06:18 AM   #7237
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Default Hex screws

I thougt it was fixed. They had the same problems with those screws since the early NTC3
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Old 11-19-2004, 08:14 AM   #7238
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If you go to Werks website, hit the shopatron icon, then click hopups, then clicks werks products, they have the pipe listed for $44.95. You can get lucky and get it off ebay sometimes for the same price. The reserve on ebay is $39 so you have to bid at least that.

Have'nt done any testing with the pipe it's mounted and ready. Its fall here and nothing but rain and cold temps. It may be spring before any testing. I seen where soc-123 purchased a werks pipe. Maybe he can do the testing he's in Aust. I think. I can't get anybody at Werks to give me any test results on the pipe at all. All I can say it looks to be the best design yet for the car. Its much longer than the Rd pipe and much better made than the AE stuff. I think the bigger exhaust outlet pipe will be just what the car needs to breath better.

Also if anybodys thinking of buying the new Richey/RD race engines you should also use the K- factory fuel tank, with either the RD pipe or Ae dual chamber pipe. It will make for better tuning that can't be achieved with the stock tank. This is what Dennis is recommending for the engine use. But I'm sure he has'nt done any testing with the Werks pipe because it's so new.
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Old 11-19-2004, 08:26 AM   #7239
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My Werks pipe is on airplane right now and should able to get it next week. So next weekend might have chance to test it see how it works against AE duelchamber -11mm in manifold.

AE duelchamber -11mm in manifold is much better than AE duelchamber full length. The response speed and RPM are both higher than full length...
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Old 11-19-2004, 10:46 AM   #7240
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Quote:
Originally posted by Z00M
'The fix' mod that is being referred to is related to strengthening the front end.

It basically uses two very long screws to go from the bottom of the chassis, through the diff cases and then through the shock tower to where some nuts are applied. This effectively makes the shock tower mount solidly to the chassis.

Without the mod, if you hit things (boards, kerbs, small children, etc) with the front of the car, there is a tendency to rip the shock tower off the diff case, damaging both the diff case and the shock tower.

If you do a search on ebay for 'NTC3 Fix' you will see what it's all about. You could also look back through this forum and you will see it there also.

Cheers,

Mike.
Thank you for letting me in on that. One thing I dont understand though, is how they are doing that. I can see how it would be done with the back 2 holes that arent used to secure the shock tower at all, just made to provide passage to the screw heads under them, but using the shock tower mounting holes, you are gonna screw right through 2 bearings and an aluminum chassis.
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Old 11-19-2004, 10:56 AM   #7241
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It secures the shock tower via that pass-through hole and via a long screw that comes way up all the way through the chassis, the bottom case and then the top case. The "head" of the upper portion is sized exactly so that the "shank" is exactly the proper distance down through the shock tower to the "flange" of the upper case.

You really need to see it to understand. It's a wonderful addition and IT WORKS. It ties the chassis, lower, upper case and shock tower together into a single unified solid whole.
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Old 11-19-2004, 10:57 AM   #7242
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Anyone? BB?

Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
I hate to do this, especially since I've gotten on others for doing it. . .ouch. . .but

I've been away for a while and I can't seem to find a decent listing of the modified suspension parts - only references to it happening.

Could someone please let me know what I need to change on my NTC3 to bring it up to date? It's all stock (with BMI series 1 chassis). What all is included in the next generation suspension parts?

Thanks (and very sorry. . . )
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Old 11-19-2004, 01:05 PM   #7243
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I don't know if this would help Boomer, but here is a link to the only suspension change since the version 1 factory team kit that I know of at the moment.

http://www.rc10.com/shusting/Catalog.../ver2_ntc3.htm
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Old 11-19-2004, 01:22 PM   #7244
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Hi Boomer! Glad to see your back! Whats up been running another type car this year??? I just read here don't say much anymore, .

All we changed last season was changed to the V2 rear suspension, switched to the K- Factory front steering hubs, which uses a serpent style pivot ball system, you can adjust them for wear also the have 3 postions for different akerman. And the Gen 2 Signature series BMI chassis.

As far as the V2 goes it the best upgrade AE has come up with. Only thing I noticed is setups changed abunch, at least for us. Theres alot of chamb.
er gain it seems with our setup and the V2. All we had to do was set the chamber lengths to their shortest length position and straight accross. Also where they bolt to the rear hubs we added a 1mm spacer under the link. The car is much faster and corner speed better with the V2 you have more control with roll center. ALso on smoother tracks it allows you to use the blade sway on the rear to really dial it in.

Another option is the new sure shift 2 speed. But if your like me and others the old style is fine. You can just buy the 2 speed tension screws and springs and new set screws, they have a different pitch and don't seem to back off on setting like the older ones sometimes do. The Clutch shoes is alittle different, they have a deep groove cut in them, so people who have trouble can actually see where the setting is. Like I said this it not anything trick, just something to make adjusting easier . All I did here was buy the screws, they do hold the setting better .

If you have the extra $$ Jason at BMI has a Signature series Gen2 chassis
that has all the problems the Gen 1 and Gen 2 had also all tolorences are as close as the cnc machining will allow, the chassis also has a polished finished and is 100 grams lighter than the stock AE and I'd be affraid to say how much lighter it is then the Gen 1.
The Gen 1 is a great chassis if you like the extra weight, which is good! to a certain degree, but I like the lighter weight.

If theres anything else I'll post later, but I think that's it!! BB
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Old 11-19-2004, 01:39 PM   #7245
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Work and some other projects forced me to take a short vacation from racing. . .but I'm back in Elec right now and am rebuilding everything in the NTC3 to get it ready to roll.



Thanks sook - that was exactly what I was looking for!

Thanks BB - I'll take the advice as I install. I've got the Gen 1 chassis pretty hooked up so I'll stick with it.

The trans needs work so I'll likely upgrade. Same with the front hubs - sounds like a good idea.

Thanks! I apreciate it! I'll be back up to speed shortly!
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