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Old 11-05-2004, 11:07 AM   #7186
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Quote:
Originally posted by spawn
same for me too, while everyone is gearing higher, I am gearing it lower!. InitialD have seen my car performed many times already and seen how it flats out on the straights faster than any other car but not that I am faster, it just doesnt rev so high because of the pipe design. fav ratio is 20/26 and 21/27 to be able to match the speed of the other cars.
I was using the Mugen Syntex with 22/29 (the tallest that I can do for NTC3) and with 21/27.........on a 200 feet long track.
Car runs better with 21/27 (gear down like Spawn experienced) even 22/29 has a little (close to nothing) improvement on the straight...

My car was running with Mugen X12, 20% with pressure nipple on 2nd chamber AE pipe.
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Old 11-05-2004, 11:11 AM   #7187
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Originally posted by bbntc3
Damn!! Just checked the WERKS RACING site. The pipe pricing has jumped from $49 to $89 in a week. Hmm!
I believed they corrected the error....on werks' site, they should listed their MSRP price, whcih is $89.99...
If Werk themself selling the pipe for $49.99......whos going to buy their pipe at the LHS...?
Werk is a MFR of the pipe, they should not sell their own pipes for $49 when they are selling their pipes to distr. or LHS and let them sell it for $49.

Again, I am still strongly against TOWER HOBBY's double standard business standpoint....some of thier price are lower then most of the LHS meanwhile TOWER is those LHS's supplier...
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Old 11-05-2004, 12:43 PM   #7188
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I've actually had pretty decent luck with the K Factory "centax" clutch. Super solid on the settings, and low wear on the components.
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Old 11-05-2004, 02:32 PM   #7189
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Default Re: Re: yokomo centax

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Originally posted by Rookie Solara
The contruction and the fuction/design, YES...very much the same as the MTX3 Syntex, however, this YOKOMO one is designed for NTC3 use....MTX3 syntex required some spacing and shimming or cutting on the syntex and the 2-speed gearbox...otherwise, the 1st gear spur with rub against the syntex after it got engaged.

And I heard this Yokomo syntex is at least $85-100 range...meanwhile Mugen one is about $50-60...I've got mine used for around $40.
hi rookie solara
i have a few mugen syntex's and tried it i dont know how to do all the spacings! can you explain step by step for me and even show me some pics

jeremy.
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Old 11-06-2004, 08:07 AM   #7190
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I've HN LS36 centax on my NTC3, haven't test it yet. LS36 basically in the same spec with Mugen MTX3 centax. This is how I did:

I add 0.8mm shims between 1st speed spur gear and gear mount (the backside of spur gear). But before that, you have to flaten 3 columns on the backside of 1st speed spur which hosting screws. Otherwise the stock screw is too short to secure the gear.
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Old 11-06-2004, 01:31 PM   #7191
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Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
I've HN LS36 centax on my NTC3, haven't test it yet. LS36 basically in the same spec with Mugen MTX3 centax. This is how I did:

I add 0.8mm shims between 1st speed spur gear and gear mount (the backside of spur gear). But before that, you have to flaten 3 columns on the backside of 1st speed spur which hosting screws. Otherwise the stock screw is too short to secure the gear.
ok! do i put the shim where the spur mounts onto the housing??? if so what brand of shims come that big and where did you get them from????

jeremy.
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Old 11-07-2004, 08:37 AM   #7192
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Hmmm, the K Factory clutch is a direct bolt-on for the NTC3...no shimming of the spur gears required.
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Old 11-07-2004, 11:23 AM   #7193
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Shims I used between 1st spd spur and 1st spd housing are 5x3x0.3mm and 5x3x0.2mm from Tamiya. But you need to check how many shims you need according to your own measure, and I found the maximum shim allowed between 1st spd spur and housing is about 1.1mm.

Also, while you shimming, you need to leave some space between 2nd spd pinon and 1st spd spur. The centax will push the gear backward, so better leave enough space, otherwise u will damage 1st spd spur very very fast.

The problem of KF centax for me is lack of parts. Better pick what has lots parts supply at ur LHS. The reason I use HN LS36 is because its in similar spec with Mugen (gear is different, however), and my LHS has both Mugen and HN centax parts in good numbers..



I tried both centax and pressure chamber today and they both great. Centax give the car uber-punch on accelration, and add a little top speed at the end of straight line (compare with same gear ratio on stock clutch). Pressure chamber stable the back pressre (no more random flameout.. and reduce the bubble in tank (at least it's not washing machine now..). Anyone with flameout problem should give pressure chamber a try (well, it cost only about 5usd, quite cheap compare with any other options). Centax is much more complex and expansive, study before you go for it (well, I think you can find nothing to give you more gear ratio combination other than centax..
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Old 11-07-2004, 03:08 PM   #7194
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ttso, excellent point regarding parts availability. You definitely want to be able to go to your lhs if you need spares.
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Old 11-07-2004, 07:02 PM   #7195
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For those who tried the Centax on the NTC3, no problems with the diff crown gears stripping?
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Old 11-08-2004, 08:53 AM   #7196
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
For those who tried the Centax on the NTC3, no problems with the diff crown gears stripping?
Believe it or not....1 set of my diff (the front) is still the old pre-revised BLACK gears, the spur and the pinion both......and I replaced the rear to the yellow/white revised HD diff simply because I don't want to take the chance on the 30 minutes main....I have only 1 set, so I can only replace the rear.

Centax (mugen) does not do any harm to my NTC3 transmission, I just kept a close eye on the shimming and grease the whole tranmission every race day.

I do not understand why ppl keep stripping diff gears, 1-way, solid, ball diff..........I tried them all.......I stock at least 4-5 packages of diff because I thought I will ended up stripping, ended up I sold them all to the others who raced with me and stripped their gears.

I use HEAVY braking most of the time, and I have a heavy finger as well..............didn't show any damage on any of my diff gear.
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Old 11-08-2004, 08:58 AM   #7197
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Default Re: Re: Re: yokomo centax

Quote:
Originally posted by rrgt_kid
hi rookie solara
i have a few mugen syntex's and tried it i dont know how to do all the spacings! can you explain step by step for me and even show me some pics

jeremy.

I think TTSO pretty much sums it........the idea is, try to INCREASE the distance between the 1st gear and the 2nd gear on your 2-speed gear box (NOT your centax, centax does not need to do anything).........so basicly I did is add a big shim onto the main shaft, then add 3 little shim behind the 1st gear before mounting to the 1-way hub..........again, the idea is increase the gap so when the centax is engaged...the 2nd gear PINION will not rub against the 1st gear spur....

If you have a machine shop and have a excellent hand, I know pp does SAND DOWN the 2nd pinion gear by like 3mm (or so that you can clear the 1st gear spur), that way, you don't have to do any shimming on the gear box.
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Old 11-08-2004, 09:00 AM   #7198
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rich Panganiban
Hmmm, the K Factory clutch is a direct bolt-on for the NTC3...no shimming of the spur gears required.
Yes, of course, but last time I remember, the KF centax is good $100....and the mugen syntex, brand new with 0.8 gears, roughly $60
I've got mine used, $35..........extra shimming does worth the saving.
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Old 11-08-2004, 09:40 AM   #7199
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Try cutting a piece of rubber tubing big enough to fit over the stinger in the pipe, about 1-2 inches long. This will muffle the sound a bit.
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Old 11-08-2004, 06:37 PM   #7200
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ok, so ive been trying to resolve my "torque"steer issue for a while now. ive checked the bearings, put new hinge pins, checked for chassis tweak, and camber, toe in, caster are all equal.

now what do i have to fix? its still going to the right harshly.
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