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Old 06-01-2002, 03:19 PM   #706
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Here's how I fixed mine.I used the sleeve nuts Losi uses for its motor mounts.Sorry the pictures aren't that great.
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Old 06-01-2002, 03:23 PM   #707
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Picture from the bottom.
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Old 06-01-2002, 08:25 PM   #708
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I raced the trinity TC3 conversion and after awhile some people turned the header around on rear exhaust engines and used a mip 360 stinger or mip touring car pipe across the middle of the rear shocktower with some success.
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Old 06-03-2002, 04:11 AM   #709
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I have the dual pipe - sounds very nice with my Novarossi s12 - though this is my 1st nitro car - i have been to the track a few times but im the only one with an ntc3 - its serpent country here .

So i dont have much to compare it to - the dual pipe is stock with the newer uk kits - duals are brca legal.

I bought mine from the uk, even though im in vienna - before i get flamed for calling uk serpent country.
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Old 06-03-2002, 12:42 PM   #710
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Talking Foam tire question!!

I just had my first race weekend and first time ever with a NItro Touring car. NTC3 was good out of box, but I went through tires one after another. I first tried running my foam tires from last Carpet season (2.25" plaids, purples and magentas). They were all one run tires. Set fastest laps in one qualifer and A-main, but still am fighting tires!! I ended up with new Ellegi's cut to 2.52" to start. The only compounds available were 45 and 35 shore so thats what I bought. Ideally I would have liked to run 42/40 shore. At the end of the 20 minute main, all four tires were wildly differnt in size!! 2.32, 2.38, 2.42 and 2.48!!! Crazy eh!!! The back of my poor chassis is already badly scratched from bottoming at end of each heat/main. Started at 5.6mm++

My question is, what brands and what shore tires are you guys running on your TC3 on sugar water treated asphalt?? What diameter do you start with and how is your wear after heats and mains?

Last edited by rayhuang; 06-03-2002 at 12:44 PM.
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Old 06-03-2002, 06:22 PM   #711
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Haha....Ray, sounds exactly like my first day out (I'm an elec TC guy). I ran my purples and blues from carpet season, and tore them up really bad...a 15 minute practice run and 3 races later and 2 sets were almost gone. I ended up running HPI 33r's this past weekend with a bit more luck, but one of my tires was worn through, and they were brand new before the race day! I thought carpet was bad! I was running a 5.5mm ride height with blues in back and copper in front and my chassis was scratched very bad for my first day out. This past weekend I stiffened it up a notch in all four corners and it made a big difference.....I need a one way and that front sway bar!!!! I can see what a great car this is gonna be though...it already is!
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Old 06-03-2002, 06:50 PM   #712
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I use teadz and crc trackmagnets the most treadz 42 shore frt and 40 shore rear, sometimes when its slick go to 42 or 45 frt and 35 rear. The harder the frt tires the softer the frt. spring and just the opposite on the rear. Dbl. purple frt and purple rear works good alot with yellow or prple frt and red or blue rear springs. I true the foams to 61mm ftr and 62mm rear. You can work on the coning or tapering of the tire with camber I start at 0 and adjust to tire wear it usually is a round 1neg. but its always different on all 4 corners. Take some of the droop out of the car it will help the bottom of the chassis, I don't like alot of droop because the more droop to me the less the chassis can work, but thats just me, I only race on 2 real prep. race tracks the rest are parking lot tracks. 5.5mm to 6.mm is usually the ride height, if bumpy I go up 1 mm frt and rear. The bottom of my car is also scratched up pretty good! But the closer to the ground the faster your going!!!!!!!!!!! [in most cases!] After a 20 min main with the tires at 61mm and 62mm you would'nt worry about tire diameter you just throw them away!

Last edited by bbntc3; 06-03-2002 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 06-03-2002, 07:42 PM   #713
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Talking Thanks!!

Thanks guys. Because I changed so many tires and compounds from heat to heat (remember first day with car!!), I couldnt change as many chassis adjustments as I would have liked!! I did a lot of edumacated guesses on the chassis from what I was doing with tires. And yes-I did go stiffer spring, softer tires I started with barry bakers asphalt set-up from vegas and it was quite good. I did order 37, 40 and 42 tires today for the next race!! By the end of the day-me and my pit guy made car a lot better, but its far from dialed!!

I e-mailed Saxton and he said Treadz are changing rims-so no foams for a little while I'll put off trying them for awhile-I guess!!

Next question: On-power push and a lack of turn-in at high speed. Any guesses??

I'll post my set-up and what I am changing for next race in a few minutes if that helps!!!
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Old 06-03-2002, 08:00 PM   #714
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Default My-set-up-Please help!!

heres the set-up and also in Bold is what I am changing if weather, etc. stays the same for next race!!78 degrees, sunny, asphalt track with sugar water treatment. 190' straight. Every kind of corner you can imagine!!!

Front

Yellow spring Purple Spring

60 Wt. oil

#3 piston #2

Shock inside on tower-out on arm

0 toe 1mm out

Camber link in/2- degrees camber.

9 degrees caster 6 degrees

5.5mm ride height

2.48" 45 shore Ellegi tires 42

Sway bar flat

Rear

Copper spring red

40 Wt oil

#3 piston

2 degrees toe-in

Camber link in/ 3degrees camber

Shock middle hole in tower-out on arm

0.078 Buds sway bar

2.48" 35 Shore Ellegi tires 40 Shore

5.9mm ride height

Hpi Stratus with Buds wing (stock wing cracked while mounting-Lexan brittle!!). Proline Stratus wing ( more cord).

This set-up pushed on exit and turn in was poor at high speed. Used some drag brake to help slow car and help turn in.

Sorry for information overload, but thanks to anyone who helps me out!!!
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Old 06-03-2002, 08:10 PM   #715
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Go back to the Copper springs in front,reds in back.Make sure you run the upper a-arms in the outside hole.Also run the front sway bar front and the stock rear one.I run 40 front and 42 30mm rear.
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Old 06-03-2002, 08:18 PM   #716
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On the push have you changed to the RC10gt slipper clutch spring on the servo saver or locked it down and filed the screw off? This took almost all the push out of my car, also play with the caster spacers for the push.
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Old 06-03-2002, 08:39 PM   #717
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bbntc3 Ah-yes-locking down the servo saver DID help, but I think I need to go further. It's MUSH if you set it like the manual says. I'll look for a Slipper clutch spring next time at LHS!! I was afraid of torqing down on it casue I broke my TC3 steering rack like that once (long time ago). Thanks!!!

Craig Thanks, so go for more camber gain-lower roll center in front and soften front springs even more. I'll try it!!!

I am thinnking of going with harder, but wider rear tires!!! Cool!!
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Old 06-03-2002, 08:48 PM   #718
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bbntc3......How much droop did you take out, and did you do both front and rear?
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Old 06-03-2002, 09:14 PM   #719
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Anybody know where to get the RPM front bumper? I am still having some front gearbox problems.I think maybe a front bumper would help with small collision.
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Old 06-04-2002, 12:43 AM   #720
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I just run 1 droop in the frt and 0 droop in the rear. I can see the advantages to alot of droop on super smooth track where the chassis does'nt have to work has hard. we're the opposite of craig I can't make the car work at all with the roll links to the outside.
Craig: go to a machine shop a buy a 3 inch X 9inch piece of lexan .210 or 1/4 inch thick and make the bumper it will cost about $2 and 20mins. to make. I have'nt broke one yet! and we'd been breaking one almost each night of racing.

Changing to the slipper spring for the saver is almost the same as locking it down so its your call .
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