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Old 11-03-2004, 09:57 PM   #7171
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Originally posted by soc123_au
Initial D, I have tried all the AE gear combos & the K Factory & Kawahara. Still not enough revs. Its hard to explain, but its like when it gets up in the revs it starts to labour & has no snap.
The same engine in an MTX3 works fine. Might have to PM Topgun777 & give one of these Palmaris things ago.
same for me too, while everyone is gearing higher, I am gearing it lower!. InitialD have seen my car performed many times already and seen how it flats out on the straights faster than any other car but not that I am faster, it just doesnt rev so high because of the pipe design. fav ratio is 20/26 and 21/27 to be able to match the speed of the other cars.
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Old 11-03-2004, 10:28 PM   #7172
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Originally posted by soc123_au
My temps are only around 220, I have tried to go leaner but it flames out, or when you nail the gas it hesitates & is very erratic & it also takes way to long to idle down.
Looks like either the pressure in the tank is still too much or the LSN is too rich / idle too high combo. Lower idle and lean the LSN at the same time. Is the fuel still "boiling" or splashing in the tank when you throttle on the starter box? Spawn pretty much tamed his one down with the use of a pressure chamber / fuel filter in between the tank and the pipe.

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I just want that high pitched scream when it gets up on the pipe, that is pretty much what is missing.
I don't think you'll get that on the NTC3 with the current pipe available.
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Old 11-03-2004, 10:45 PM   #7173
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Originally posted by InitialD
Looks like either the pressure in the tank is still too much or the LSN is too rich / idle too high combo. Lower idle and lean the LSN at the same time. Is the fuel still "boiling" or splashing in the tank when you throttle on the starter box? Spawn pretty much tamed his one down with the use of a pressure chamber / fuel filter in between the tank and the pipe.
In the past I followed the manual for the length of the pressure tubing but it blew my mind when whenever I throttle my engine, the fuel cap would be snapping like a crocodile mouth! The engine tune would also sometimes be erratic although it worked well a day ago!. to cure that I bent the spring holding the fuel cap to make it even harder and increased the fuel pressure length to almost double. No more problems after that but just could not get the engine to run it full potential, good that I get to save my engine I think side exhaust engine has a lot of potential for this car. Any manufacturers making high powered side exhaust engines?
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Old 11-04-2004, 03:02 AM   #7174
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I will give the pressure chamber in the pressure line a try.
Side exhaust engines in this car are awsome, I sometimes run a K.12 RB in the car & it flies with no issues on tuning at all. I won our winter nationals with the side exhaust NTC3 earlier this year, in the pullstart class. At our state titles in April I was having so much trouble with the engine I bolted in the K12 as well, it was competitive in the tight sections but off the mark in the fast sections. The track is huge though, it is the track they ran the 1/8 scale worlds in 2001.
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Old 11-04-2004, 10:42 AM   #7175
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Default Pressure chamber

I've a Mugen pressure chamber installed recently but haven't got chance to try it yet. Hopefully it will be this weekend.. hopefully..

The Werks pipe do looks good. bbntc3 please keep us update on how the pipe works compare with AE stock and RD turbo..
(wish the guy on ebay shipping oversea)
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Old 11-04-2004, 04:17 PM   #7176
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http://werksracing.com/index.jsp

They might ship overseas, when they have the pipe back in stock.
You'll never get the high pitch sound like that other cars and pipes have with the AE pipe.
The reason the side exhaust engines work well is the pipe length .
We also race RC10GT's severly modded on 50mm wide foams on asphault road courses. We run modded RB C12's with MIP 360 degree header out the back of the truck. These things fly they are like 2 seconds slower than gas sedans and a blast to race. The RB C12 is a very good sidewider!! What is a K12?? Never seen one i don't guess.
It's kinda wierd all my sirio engines have that sound with the RD pipe and the right gearing and timing. I'm talking off the turn and too full speed in second gear in 90 ft. Sirio engines seems to like the NTC3 and all the pipe for some reason?
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Old 11-04-2004, 06:23 PM   #7177
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A K12 is a C12 with an O ring on the backplate instead of a gasket. Other than that they are the same. Great engine & reliable as hell.
The Ebay dude with the Werks pipes will ship OS, I asked & he said OK. I missed the one that just ended, but my bid is on the new one.
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:35 PM   #7178
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Has anyone tried installing a pressure nipple towards the front of the Associated dual chamber pipe as opposed to where the existing hole is for the pressure line? I've seen this on Barry Baker's car as well as Mark Pavidis' and was wondering what the benefits are. Thanks.
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Old 11-04-2004, 09:37 PM   #7179
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Also, what foam tires are you guys running? I've been running Jaco foams and have been happy with the performance. It's hard to believe the price on E-Bay for Jaco foam tires!!!
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Old 11-04-2004, 10:19 PM   #7180
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The pressure line at the front of the pipe helps to stop the fuel foaming & blowing the tank lid open.

I prefer the Jaco tyres, they seem to work well. The shore rating is dependent on the track.
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Old 11-05-2004, 08:18 AM   #7181
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That's what I have heard on the pressure nipple being on the front of the dual chamber pipe is that it smooths out the pressure line pulses much the same way a pressure chamber in-line on the pressure line would.

I like the Jaco tires, great foams and a shore available for every track condition.
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Old 11-05-2004, 09:54 AM   #7182
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I got in on the GQ tire deal here in the US this year. I sell them to racers here at a good price. We and everyone else I've sold them to are very pleased. Good performance and great wear. Don't care for the orange rims that well but together with the right color combination on the body they look cool. Very Serpenty! 40/40 and 42/42 seems to work and wear very well.

It's funny you guys are all on the pipe deal now. Where were you guys a year or so ago??? I've bitched and reworked these pipes and the car for 3 years to get something that works, only to be told here that mainly I couldn'nt tune the car! LOL
As for the pressure line and position, imove it where Ae says too, theres less pulse pressure at the stinger outlet. For pressure line length just work with 5 to 9 inches of line, I've found shorter with our combo's work better 5 to 6 inches.

It's a pain, but go back through the posts, mainly the beginning and all your problems with the pipe, vibrations, fuel tank, wash board effect and thermal issues are addressed. Not all have the answers you want to here, but...?
You guys will find that it's not only the pipe that needs worked on. You'll have to also concentrate on vibrations and fuel delivery. After you figure that out then work on Thermal issues.

The car is a very good car once you figure it all out. I would step out there and say it's the best short track car out there on the market today. As for long tracks thats a different story. As far as holding a tighter line than the other makes of cars on big tracks, yes!, but the speed of the mugens and serpents, I dunno???
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Old 11-05-2004, 10:13 AM   #7183
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Damn!! Just checked the WERKS RACING site. The pipe pricing has jumped from $49 to $89 in a week. Hmm!
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Old 11-05-2004, 10:36 AM   #7184
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Werks' website pricing is kind confusing. They have 89.99 listed on web, but if you go into their shopping site and select the Hop-Werks, than you will see the same pipe, with the same model name, listed 49.99.

What's the deal? I really have no idea..
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Old 11-05-2004, 11:03 AM   #7185
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Default Re: yokomo centax

Quote:
Originally posted by rrgt_kid
is this clutch the same as a mtx3 centax????
The contruction and the fuction/design, YES...very much the same as the MTX3 Syntex, however, this YOKOMO one is designed for NTC3 use....MTX3 syntex required some spacing and shimming or cutting on the syntex and the 2-speed gearbox...otherwise, the 1st gear spur with rub against the syntex after it got engaged.

And I heard this Yokomo syntex is at least $85-100 range...meanwhile Mugen one is about $50-60...I've got mine used for around $40.
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