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Old 10-22-2004, 10:09 AM   #7141
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Default Re: FT exhaust separates too easily

Quote:
Originally posted by i300i
Howdy,

I知 currently building a new Factory Team NTC3 Kit. I値l be installing an O.S. 12TR R-spec engine. My racing buddy has had some problems with his FT exhaust coming apart at the coupling tube during relatively minor side impacts.

I知 wondering if this design from RD Logics (61255 turbo) would be any more secure, and if anyone has feedback about the performance of this pipe with the R-Spec engine.

http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_179.htm

TIA,

Dan
Get a long screw driver and insert at the ends of the pipes where they connect. Roll it around to flange the ends out. That should prevent them from sliding apart. I like the FT pipe imo.
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Old 10-22-2004, 12:57 PM   #7142
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I use the FT pipe with the R-Spec and it works great. I have a friend that runs the RD-turbo with his RB-v12 and has more problems with his engine flaming out than my old rbx12. I really enjoy running the stock FT pipe with my O.S. It really screams on a club track at stable temps. I just use three fat zip ties with my coupling and it has not come off when my car is rolling on end by collision.
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Old 10-22-2004, 09:46 PM   #7143
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some people at our track had troubles with the RB-V12 flaming out with the stock and RD pipe with 20 % nitro.. We found that switching to 25 or 30% fuel cured the problem. ???

Anybody had any experience with a pipe made by WERKS??. . Deisgned like the RD pipe but looked longer. If so any idea where to buy them?
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Old 10-27-2004, 06:32 PM   #7144
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guys, a friend of mine has just installed the trinity centax on his tc3 ft, and heエs got tired of changing drive pinion rings every quarter of gallon, we run on a small track and he uses the rrl3 for power, besides the drive pinion ring from team is there any other brand for this part, in aluminum or harden steel, thanks
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Old 10-30-2004, 04:19 PM   #7145
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diff gear rings! well i went throught two last night and they chew out right where the little ball bearings get placed! only running the fr/r diffs both at 1/4 turn out i use novarossi s3 motor what is the cure??? should i put a one way in so the would be little more stress?? or even a centax?

please help

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Old 10-30-2004, 08:54 PM   #7146
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One way is worse for chewing gears. Are the teeth stripping or the the inside of the gear. I have never had one go where the balls go
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Old 10-31-2004, 02:28 AM   #7147
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Quote:
Originally posted by soc123_au
One way is worse for chewing gears. Are the teeth stripping or the the inside of the gear. I have never had one go where the balls go
yes it stripped right where the balls go , ive never had a problem either is the new gears better because ive only got the original grey ones in. the orange slipper pad looks ok but if its worn in thickness could it be causing it???

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Old 10-31-2004, 08:32 PM   #7148
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Its not stripping where the balls go its melting. Diff is getting to hot, from either improper diff setting or too much preoload or grease over heating the gears. It could also maybe be caused by the diff spring being to weak and letting the diff slip,or the diff balls are wore down to much, they usually get flat spotted though but could I guess wear evenly to small?? Too high of gearing could also cause this. The car could be shifting out of first gear to soon. The wheels are'nt up to full speed when it shifts causing the diffs to slip and generate heat. You'd think the clutch would slip, but... in most cases but the diffs will slip.
When you see the diffs melted like this you better put new friction disc in the ring gear too because its also been overheated and hardened and will not seat to the diff drives properly also causing the diffs to overheat and slip.
This is basically all that can cause your troubles. If your melting the white gears your diff is slipping, bigtime!
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Old 10-31-2004, 09:06 PM   #7149
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I have never melted one in two & a half years I have stripped plenty of the grey & white ones. What are you using for lube. I only ever use the stealth lube.
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Old 10-31-2004, 09:46 PM   #7150
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Check the spring, they are around .285" in length new and need to be replaced when they are .265" or less in length. A new spring and pad should cure your problem.
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Old 10-31-2004, 11:12 PM   #7151
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i have never had this problem ,thanks for your points i will go and do my home work on this now!

jeremy.
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Old 11-01-2004, 01:40 AM   #7152
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Default K Factory Tank problems

The expensive K Factory tank I bought has issues. The baffles inside the tank snapped off. I'd hate to throw it away since it's still works but the baffles are shaking all over the place. Any idea what I should do? Anyone dealt with K Factory with broken parts that needed replaced or fixed?
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Old 11-01-2004, 03:04 AM   #7153
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Default yokomo centax

is this clutch the same as a mtx3 centax????
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Old 11-01-2004, 05:40 PM   #7154
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Default Re: yokomo centax

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Originally posted by rrgt_kid
is this clutch the same as a mtx3 centax????
yes, it's very much the same
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Old 11-01-2004, 08:29 PM   #7155
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I've melted 2 diffs in 3 years and they were all the old material. Never had the melting problems with the newer material gears. But have seen it a bunch with other cars. I never even had to replace a spring. Some of the diffs I have, have the same spring that orginally came with the first kits.
Now, as far as stripping the gears, LOL I should own stock in AE. LOL
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