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Old 10-14-2004, 09:42 AM   #7126
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Thanks to all of you for your input.
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Old 10-14-2004, 07:39 PM   #7127
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Doing well BB, hope you are too. I wasn't sure we could use the same clutchbell. SHould have checked lol. Finally within the last 2 weeks I got my version 2 to handle just about the same as ver 1, which I had no complaints about. Sux to be here in the east, cause running could stop real soon. By the time I get the clutch from overseas, I would probably have only a week or 2 left. Had some good news sunday. I bashed at one of the local spots in bklyn on a 1/8 scale set up. The tc3 performed well against all the lastest, mugens, kyoskos etc using x12s, novas, and a maxy. I run the ps12 and like it, esp being different. I could play with the 1/8s, but that long straight was too much to make up for on the infield against the better 1/8 drivers.
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Old 10-15-2004, 05:02 PM   #7128
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Chuck: You can get the clutch here, it's alittle more but paypal it and you can have it in about 4 days http://shop.the-border.nl/customer/h...cat=350&page=4

If you buy the clutch setup you will like! I have 6 of my engines setup up with them, and 1 engine with the K centax. All I have to do is drop them in and go.

Glad all is well. I know what you mean about the east, we stopped racing early here too. We stopped 2 weeks ago. We usually race up into Nov. Looks to be an early winter here in no where land!!
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Old 10-16-2004, 10:53 AM   #7129
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
Theres a Hardcore racing Ti chassis and upperdeck on ebay . Its the $170 racing chassis and the $70 upper Ti deck.
I wouldn't want any metal upper deck, too much weight up high. Graphite is the way to go. Light is right!
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Old 10-16-2004, 10:52 PM   #7130
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Yes with the Ti deckand the stand offs the weight would be there and the graphite would be the best. But.. for the $$$ the chassis would be worth the price. That's got be the lightest chasis out there, but the flex....??? I dunno?? I always wanted to try one but, the $170 price scared me off. Thank goodness Jason designed the Gen 2 BMI, all the weight is below the shaft, and 100 grams lighter than stock, it's the best chassis out there no matter what the cost!!! That's the ticket!!!!!
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Old 10-17-2004, 07:40 AM   #7131
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Kinda off topic, but yeah, I'm sellin my NTC3, not the greatest one, has barely any mods on it, good for someone whos looking for a project type of car. check out my signature for details.
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Old 10-17-2004, 08:38 PM   #7132
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I was just reading back through some pages as I have been thinking about my old NTC3 and how much I liked it. My only reason for leaving was the front gear stripping constantly, other than that it was perfect. On the newest team kits how are the gears holding up? I used a solid front axle on the short tracks and tore them up even with a OS TR and semi clean driving.
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Old 10-17-2004, 11:00 PM   #7133
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guys, im starting to get frustrated. i took apart the car, and found a bent hinge pin, bent pivot ball, and broken bearing. i replaced them all, and i still have major torque steer. even with front 1 degree toe in i still torque steer / car dragging to one side like hell.

for the rear toe in, im still using v1 suspension but the toe in links are the same length so the toe in should be the same.

help me out guys, im a few steps from selling this car.
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Old 10-17-2004, 11:42 PM   #7134
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Quote:
Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
guys, im starting to get frustrated. i took apart the car, and found a bent hinge pin, bent pivot ball, and broken bearing. i replaced them all, and i still have major torque steer. even with front 1 degree toe in i still torque steer / car dragging to one side like hell.
Have you checked if the chassis is tweaked? What about the diffs? Are they slipping?
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Old 10-18-2004, 01:43 AM   #7135
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the last time i checked, diffs were tight, not slipping, and the chassis was as flat as the wall.
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Old 10-18-2004, 02:05 AM   #7136
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Quote:
Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
the last time i checked, diffs were tight, not slipping, and the chassis was as flat as the wall.
I had similar problems in the past too and found out that the 2 of the 3 screws that secured the shock tower were bent. I changed them and it was okay after that.
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Old 10-18-2004, 03:08 AM   #7137
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If the car pulls to one side when you hit the throttle, then there are many things you can check for, but firstly, you need to make sure you start from a known point.

Put new tyres on the car or true the current ones so you know left and right sides are the same.

Check that left and right side shock absorbers are perfect (in their length and their action) as a 1mm difference from left to right in total shaft length can cause a problem.

As for the rear toe, it doesn't mean anything if the rods are the same length, you need to measure the car either with a setup board or at the very least the stock AE guages, it could possibly be that the car is adjusted half to one turn from left to right for the track and then the toe links shouldn't be the same (giving away all my good hints now!)

Unscrew all the droop screws so you know it's not a droop problem.

If you've hit something hard enough to bend a hinge pin, chances are the shock tower or the diff are off centre. Also check that all 4 suspension arms fall easily under their own weight to the same height left and right.

Also check all the other bearings since you've had one shatter (I've broken about 8 in the last few months since I keep hitting things). All bearings must spin freely.

Try those things and see how you go.

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Old 10-18-2004, 07:06 AM   #7138
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You may also check whether you are using the same shores for left and right tires. I once used 42 shore on one side and 45 shore on the other side accidentially. The car constantly drift to one side.

Also, check whether the CVD is occasionally struck in the steering spindle. If the CVD pin is just a bit loose and it pops out of the socket a bit, the pin may grind on the steering spindle, then your car will drift to one side due to different rotational velocities of left and right wheels.
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Old 10-18-2004, 06:41 PM   #7139
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The solid spool with the new team gears will still rip the gears out, not as often maybe but will still strip.

If all checks ok and the car still pulls oneway or the other loosen the front diff, or tighten it. If, this doe'nt work, I'd look into the friction disc, in the middle of the front ring gear. Our car done this once and the friction disc in the ring gear was wore out and letting one side slip and the other pull more.
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Old 10-21-2004, 08:54 PM   #7140
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Default FT exhaust separates too easily

Howdy,

Iím currently building a new Factory Team NTC3 Kit. Iíll be installing an O.S. 12TR R-spec engine. My racing buddy has had some problems with his FT exhaust coming apart at the coupling tube during relatively minor side impacts.

Iím wondering if this design from RD Logics (61255 turbo) would be any more secure, and if anyone has feedback about the performance of this pipe with the R-Spec engine.

http://www.rdlogics.com/store/P_179.htm

TIA,

Dan
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