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Old 09-26-2004, 10:29 PM   #7081
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After 3 years of racing the car the conclusion I have come up with is at high torque theres to much flex in the diff case itself. THE FIX also helps this flex problem, but not a cure!
I've been using metal diff cases with a Novarossi ns12 engine and so far no diff gear breakage. Have you experimented with that?
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Old 09-27-2004, 12:18 AM   #7082
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Congrats on a top 3 finish bbtc3
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Old 09-27-2004, 08:56 PM   #7083
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I've bought 3 different sets of the Rd cases and they all had to be massaged a bunch! brg crush either to much or not enough. I worked on the cases and and all 3 sets of them would strip the pinion out of them, but that was before the white gears came out, no work has been done with the cases since they came out. I also dislike the extra weight, shit the cases are like 1 or 2 ozs. heavier, if I remember correctly. Theres diffently no flex with the cases. So all the load will be on the gears, is that a good thing or bad??? With nylon gears or what ever the Ae stuff is, I would think it bad! There has to be alittle flex here for sure, with the gear/material used. Was'nt it last year or the year before at the NATS not very many TC3 guys could keep the diffs in the car?

Hellion: The bodies work great, good down force, steering and corner speed on the short tracks!! So yes they will work there too!!! Thanks for all your help!

Bob
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Old 09-28-2004, 09:13 AM   #7084
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I have had my NTC3 for almost a year now and I have run out of places to run my electric car outdoors, so I guess I am going to finally try gas. I have two questions
1. I have seen guys putting lube on their diff gears. I never did this with my electric TC3. Shoud I do it with my NTC3 and what kind?

2. The track I am going to almost requires you to use a one-way, because it is so big. I hear this is a problem breaking parts when you do.

Thank you
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Old 09-28-2004, 09:34 PM   #7085
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Diff gears and front cvds will be your only problem with a solid spool or a oneway. Your absolutely correct on greasing the gears, use very little if any!!! I think its designed to run dry. that's the main problem or too loose diff setting if your melting the center out of the diffs. Grease in the diffs can cause them to over heat, especially if theres to much, I usually just fill the pinion teeth with grease, just enough to cover the teeth. None on the ring gear.
We usually just strip the teeth off the ring and pinions, usually when the car shifts into second gear.
We don't have as much gear troubles with other modd engines mainly it's just the Richeys!! Dennis's engines make so much torque/ HP something has to give up! Theres nothing else like them!! I've tried them all!!
With a shaft car theres very little flex or torque loss so theres alot of strain on the drive line, not like belt cars where alot of stess (shock) is relieved through the belt system.

Again this is just my opinion, would I switch to a belt car??? No way!!!!!!
BELT CARS SUCK!!
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Old 09-29-2004, 04:13 AM   #7086
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Thanks for the info
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Old 09-29-2004, 06:14 PM   #7087
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interesting!
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Old 09-29-2004, 08:15 PM   #7088
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Bill: I see you finally learned how to work the computer. Welcome!!
All you guys with questions ask the pro!
Connard.. He taught me everything I know!!

That was one hell of a show last weekend bro!! Good Job!!!!

At least we got 2 of the top 5 trophys!!
The kid can finish 3rd behind you anytime! Bob
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Old 09-29-2004, 08:34 PM   #7089
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Connard: Welcome!

I'd like to know how you guys prepare for a competition? What parts to bring? How to tune the engine, suspension, and others in time for heat? Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-30-2004, 01:18 AM   #7090
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anyone else with suggestions to fixing the "drifting to the right" everytime i give sufficent throttle on my car? or would i have to do a complete teardown?
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Old 09-30-2004, 06:31 PM   #7091
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thanks bob,
You forgot that tj was in the middle of the pack on saturday until we lined his car out and he went on to win the b main and finish 4th in the A.

revzalot,
It really depends on how big the race is and how many classes you run on the same day.
I always try to do as much as possible on every race day but sometimes if one car sucks I tend to focus on that car instead of both. ( I don't recomend this) It cost me in 19 turn this weekend.

1. I always check my connecting rod in my TOP motor everyother week or before a big race.

BETWEEN RUNS

2 If I don't crash then I charge my receiver pack, check tire wear and tighten every screw possible then visually inspect the entire car.
3. If I hit anything during the race Iremoive all tires, check all wheel bearings, check droop, toe, camber, and insure the same amount of rebound on all shocks plus number two (above).
4. If I run a centax clutch, I rebuild it and regrease it after every run.( better safe than sorry)

AFTER A DAY OF RACING

1 I completely tear the entire car down and rebuild it the week before a big race. Replace any part that might even be close to worn out.
2 Clean bearings and lube
3 If just a club race or your pressed for time try to do the between race maintanance.
4 Clean body and true tires to desired diameter.
5 Other than that just get in a habbit of doing this and in no time you will have your own schedule to follow.
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Old 09-30-2004, 09:06 PM   #7092
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Hmm, I never even thought TJ finished. I thought pretty boy Johnny finished fourth. I need to check the site and see if the race is posted yet!!! Bob
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Old 09-30-2004, 09:39 PM   #7093
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I had the same problem with the gear stripping on the one way , just a couple teeth were wasted , i shimmed the pinion closer to the ring gear and it seemed to fix the issue , instead of stripping the gear it snapped the plastic drive cup on the front gear box assy ,installed an aluminum one and seems ok , besides the easily bent pillow balls the NTC3 is awsome . handles great and the drivetrain is effecient . I think with all the high HP engines out there we are now pushing the limitations of the drivetrain , honestly i dont think plastic gears have a chance for a long time with a 2+ horsepower engine .

If the car is torque steering there is something wrong , either a bent hinge pin , bound up suspension component , bent pillow ball , etc , disassemble the car and inspect it you will eventually find a problem , also check the chassis for flatness by using a flat surface such as a counter top , setup board or glass , it should sit realatively flay .
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Old 10-05-2004, 03:28 AM   #7094
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With the smashing of diff gears on the one way, I experienced the same thing as mentioned before. I went to the all alloy cases and no more gear issues using the factory spec on the shims. I did of course have to massage a little of the material on the inside where the pinion comes into the diff case but I expected this even if it was only because of the anodizing. As for the bearing crush, I sanded off the anodizing until I had the same thickness on the micrometer and then just locktited the bearings in place. Not for the faint hearted, but seems to have worked a treat. The bearings are not rotating inside the cases.

So after that success, I decided to try and use the plastic top half and the alloy bottom half to reduce the weight increase. Since the car has to be 1725 grams for sanctioned races, and my car was only slightly overweight with both top and bottom alloy cases, I thought what the heck.

I have now run this setup for two complete race meetings without a failure and without even touching the diffs.

If these failures were related to the change in gear on the two speed as suggested, surely the rear diff would be breaking as well. I know that if you use the ball diff then there is some give, but since I use the spool in the rear there is no give and the gears should have been breaking.

Since a lot of stress is put on the front diff case (remove the top half, hold one wheel and turn the other and you will see that the diff is trying to distort the case every time you corner), I believe that the problem is that the gears are able to lose mesh under some circumstances and when it does, the teeth skip or lock and once you lose one tooth it is a rapid spiral into a complete diff failure.

Just my two cents worth.
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Old 10-05-2004, 03:51 AM   #7095
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Quote:
Originally posted by Z00M
With the smashing of diff gears on the one way, I experienced the same thing as mentioned before. I went to the all alloy cases and no more gear issues using the factory spec on the shims. I did of course have to massage a little of the material on the inside where the pinion comes into the diff case but I expected this even if it was only because of the anodizing. As for the bearing crush, I sanded off the anodizing until I had the same thickness on the micrometer and then just locktited the bearings in place. Not for the faint hearted, but seems to have worked a treat. The bearings are not rotating inside the cases.

So after that success, I decided to try and use the plastic top half and the alloy bottom half to reduce the weight increase. Since the car has to be 1725 grams for sanctioned races, and my car was only slightly overweight with both top and bottom alloy cases, I thought what the heck.

I have now run this setup for two complete race meetings without a failure and without even touching the diffs.

If these failures were related to the change in gear on the two speed as suggested, surely the rear diff would be breaking as well. I know that if you use the ball diff then there is some give, but since I use the spool in the rear there is no give and the gears should have been breaking.

Since a lot of stress is put on the front diff case (remove the top half, hold one wheel and turn the other and you will see that the diff is trying to distort the case every time you corner), I believe that the problem is that the gears are able to lose mesh under some circumstances and when it does, the teeth skip or lock and once you lose one tooth it is a rapid spiral into a complete diff failure.

Just my two cents worth.
Yes I agree with you on the metal diff casing, very good but my car is slightly overweight with it. 1750g. As for the fittings, I had to scrape of the paint where the bearings are mounted to get the perfect fit. I understand from my LHS that the new unpainted cases do not have bearing pinch problems anymore.
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