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Old 09-22-2004, 04:38 PM   #7066
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JDM : Take both sways off. Set everything on the car at zero. Caster, camber, droop, front and rear toe. 6 to 8 mm ride height, closer to 7 or 8. 60 wt. oil in front, 40 wt. in rear. Shock position at middle hole top,outer hole bottom front and rear. Put the blade bar back on front, set it flat. If you run foams, use 40/40 F/R, try purple springs front, yellow rear. Try that and see what it does, if steering and front traction good, and rear loose, raise the blade bar first, then add rear toe.5 degrees at a time. If back is still loose try softer rear springs. Also adjust camber according, with tire wear.

As for the clutch, I never had very good luck with the Ae clutch, it's ok but not good. Look around and get a 3 shoe K-Factory clutch, the shoe material is better and it has a hardened flywheel, no more flywheel grooving to deal with like the stock stuff. You can pick them up in HK for around $20. It comes complete with 3 shoe clutch, engine mounts and flywheel, just add you clutchbell.
Others say the MIP clutch is ok, never tried it, i'm sure the flywheel wear is better than stock.
Hope this helps!
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Old 09-22-2004, 05:09 PM   #7067
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I'm afraid that woulden't hold it . When I had it in my MTX2 it sheard the engine mount screws and just destroyed the gears But I didn't care It was a blast driving it . The motor mounts are upside down and all 8 screws are in place but I'm sure I'll add some reinforcements to the mounts. On the exhaust I used a airplane extender and added a flaird copper tip (it needed a little weight added to the r/r ) As far as how fast it is Some one asked me at the track and my friend told him to pitcher the fastest car that he has ever seen then dubble its speed and it would still be slower. That might be a little bold but it was a rocket and it should be even faster in the TC3. Sirio claims just under 3 horse power and will turn 44000 and I spent a lot of time on the sleeve and crank to add to it!and the tanks filled with 65% I don't know how smart that was but god forbid I have anything stock I'll take some more pics of it if you would like Heres a pic of the MTX2
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Old 09-22-2004, 05:28 PM   #7068
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thanks all............you know right after i posted this I found the Fixx on ebay. I swear it wasn't there earlier
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:01 PM   #7069
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OK JDM Just because bbntc3 has ntc3 in his user name doesn't mean he knows more then I do about TC3s !!! I just want to make that clear!!! The fact is he knows a LOT more about TC3s then I do I would take his advise
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Old 09-23-2004, 12:10 AM   #7070
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Thanx bbntc3 and HELLION!!!!
that is one hell of a change in my suspension!
But hey!
youguys obviously have more experience so i'll take your advise.
i'll be back in a bit to try those settings out and see how it works!
thanx again

so the AE clutch shoes suck that much???
man you got any links you can give me to where i can get he K-Factory 3-shoe kit for a good price?

Last edited by JDMboy; 09-23-2004 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 09-23-2004, 06:54 AM   #7071
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDMboy

so the AE clutch shoes suck that much???
man you got any links you can give me to where i can get he K-Factory 3-shoe kit for a good price?
Try these guys http://www.brooklynhobbies.com Their the only place I can find in the US who stocks a full line of K-Factory parts. I just ordered some parts for my Centax Clutch and it was shipped the very next day.

They have very cheap prices for K-Factory stuff. Just call them for availability of the parts you need. They don't update their website often so a lot of items say 'Out of Stock' but they do have them.

Hope this helps!
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Old 09-23-2004, 08:38 AM   #7072
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Thanx for the link!
I will be sure to give them a call.
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Old 09-24-2004, 07:03 AM   #7073
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Hi JDM
I just thought i'd give you a few alternitive set-up ideas for you to try if you wanted. although i'm sure that bbntc3 knows what he's talking about.
i run:
FRONT SUSP.
CASTOR:9
CAMBER: 3
TOE OUT: 2
RIDE HEIGHT: 5MM
DROOP: 6 ON AE GAUGE
O BUMP STEER SPACERS
FRONT DIFF. ON TRACKS THAT REQUIRE BRAKING, OTHERWISE ONE WAY
BLADE ANTI ROLL BAR AT 10'
RED SPRINGS
30 WEIGHT OIL, WITH #3 PISTONS
TOWER MOUNTING: MIDDLE HOLE
CAMBER LINK: INNER HOLE
ARM MOUNTING: OUTER HOLE

REAR SUSP. VERSION 2
CAMBER: 2.5
TOE IN: 3
RIDE HEIGHT: 6MM
DROOP: 1 ON AE GAUGE
TIGHT DIFF. SETTING
REAR ANTI ROLL BAR, [IF MORE REAR TRACTION IS REQUIRED GET RID OF THIS]
BLUE SPRINGS [FOR MORE TURN IN I USE RED SPRINGS]
30 WEIGHT OIL # 2 PISTONS
TOWER MOUNTING: MIDDLE HOLE
CAMBER LINK: UPPER HOLE
NO WASHERS ON TOP PIVOT BALL

37 COMPOUND FOAM TYRES ALL ROUND

I HOPE THIS HELPS


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Old 09-24-2004, 01:01 PM   #7074
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do you guys notice a torque steer effect on your cars? ive reset all the settings and i still cant get the car from going to the right everytime i give it gas, even when the trim is set for it to roll to the left.
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Old 09-24-2004, 01:38 PM   #7075
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Quote:
Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
do you guys notice a torque steer effect on your cars? ive reset all the settings and i still cant get the car from going to the right everytime i give it gas, even when the trim is set for it to roll to the left.
Double check your two speed transmission. It might be engaging too early thus causing torque steer. Clean the shoes and tighten the springs 1/2 revolution.
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Old 09-25-2004, 12:06 AM   #7076
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Quote:
Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
do you guys notice a torque steer effect on your cars? ive reset all the settings and i still cant get the car from going to the right everytime i give it gas, even when the trim is set for it to roll to the left.
If you using front-1way, check it first. Last time I experienced torque steering is because one side of front-1way damaged. After replacing with a new front-1way it fixed.
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Old 09-25-2004, 10:03 PM   #7077
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Default What about?

I had that problem with the TC3 with the 21 stuffed in it. I tried shifting diagonal weight which helped but I ended up putting stiffer springs in it
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Old 09-26-2004, 01:53 AM   #7078
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hi r3volution
if you are experiencing torque steer, it could be because your car is "tweeked". check to see if your car is tweaked by lifting up either ends of the chassis on at a time. both wheels should lift of the ground at the same time. if they don't your suspension could be binding. when the cars weight is shifted to the rear under excelleration, because the suspension is binding the weight will not be distributed evenly to each rear wheel causing the car to pull to the left or right.
if it is binding use a process of ellimination to determine where the binding is taken place. remove the sway bar and shocks. also make sure that the droop screws are set evenly as this can cause the wheels to lift off the ground at different times to.
take your time to check for this as this will lead to a better balanced car, which will result in a consistant handling.
i hope this helps.
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Old 09-26-2004, 02:01 AM   #7079
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hi again r3volution
also make sure that you are getting drive to all four wheels. if one of the wheels is not spinning when you apply the throttle it will cause the car to pull to one direction.
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Old 09-26-2004, 09:24 PM   #7080
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The setup stuff I gave JDM is just like what Hellion is talking about with the higher ride height. It's nothing really close to what we use it will just give us something to work with. If the car does'nt perform better than before with this starter setup, theres something bad wrong. I have found it much easier to start with the car at a higher ride height and all setting dead neutral or 0 and go from there. AE setups are great for conditioned tracks but not good for the average guy trying to parking lot race.

Just finished 3 days of hard short track racing this weekend. The car performed very good against the other 20 cars. Only real problem we had was the Dennis Richey sirio engine!! This damn thing is unreal on power!!! Dennis's, RD Logics engine venture should be unreal for all the average racer out there who want big HP at a affordable price, and also have the HP the factory guys have.

We had a very hard time keeping ring and pinion gears in th NTC3 this weekend. With a solid front spool it ripped 3 sets of gears out of it. With a oneway it ripped one set out of it, had to go back to ball diffs, and it still ripped 3 sets of gears out of it. This problem happened without hitting anything, just ripped it out! The engine makes so much power and with the lowest gearing when the car shiftes into second gear it would rip the gears out. We shimmed the pinions loose, tight even done the 2 and 3 shim trick on the ring gear side,( which is what all the fast guys everywhere do with the oneway to keep the gears in it). The track did have unreal traction or bite, but.. to me theres still a problem with High HP engines and the AE gears. I wish someone would come up with a brass ring and pinion or something. After 3 years of racing the car the conclusion I have come up with is at high torque theres to much flex in the diff case itself. THE FIX also helps this flex problem, but not a cure! We've never been able to get a diff to last with Richey HP with any gearing higher than a 4 tooth split
until now, the richey /sirio does it now with 4 tooth split.

Anyways, after 4 qualifiers and a 15 min. main ,we still managed a 3rd place finish out of 20 cars. So I'm pleased! 3rd place finish in the biggest race here for the year and 4th, in the points race for year is not to bad!!
Racing here for this year is pretty much over!! The way the weather is changing it will be snowing within a month! SNOW!! NOT A GOOD THING!!

My comments are in no way cutting/hacking the NTC3. In 3 years of racing it everyweekend I still think its the best bang for the $$$. BB

Last edited by bbntc3; 09-26-2004 at 09:41 PM.
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