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Old 05-28-2002, 10:06 AM   #691
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HELP! I've got a binding steering issue. I've narrowed it down to the hub carriers. They seem a bit tight when the pivot balls are tightened down. I put a little black grease on the pivot balls which helped a little bit. Without the hub carriers, the steering is super smooth. as soon as they are hooked up, it feels really tight and sometimes binds a bit while steering. has anybody had this problem? If so how did you fix it? I'm going to run it a bit since I greased them up to see if it loosens......
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Old 05-28-2002, 11:37 AM   #692
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Hmmm,you may have to loosen the balls up a bit more.Try putting the threaded part into the chuck of a drill and spin it inside of the hub if it binds badly.You could even loosen the two retaining screws a bit.
On a lighter note if you can still find em I have a lid for the other style of GT tanks,it is black and came molded with the pressure fitting in it.The only difference is the tank mounts the other way.Some of the RTR RC10GT came with these tanks and I am thinking of going and just robbing the lid.
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Old 05-28-2002, 05:56 PM   #693
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What I did fixed the problem, so if anyone has a steering issue, check the pivot balls. I put a little black grease on the front ones and loosened the screws a little bit, and the steering is super smooth now......just lettin ya know.....
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Old 05-28-2002, 08:59 PM   #694
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I use the white lightning teflon wax for the PBs and CVDs because it doesn't attract dirt.
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Old 05-29-2002, 01:28 AM   #695
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Do you not have to have your pressure line wrapped into 2 coils(14" long) if you tap into the top of the tank lid. The NTC3 manual says to do this but that is if you use the stock pressure fitting molded onto the tank that runs straight down to the bottom of the tank. Any help on this will be appreciated.
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Old 05-29-2002, 02:37 AM   #696
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The long pressure line is supposed to be for getting rid of the pulsing from the pipe.I believe this can be done with a large capacity fuel filter running in line in the pressure line and it would also eliminate any chance of foreign objects getting into the line and into the tank.This idea would be the same principal as the boost bottle in theory as far as equaling out the pulsing pressure for intake.If you figure out how much fuel a certain length of fuel line will hold and then see how much fuel a filter will hold then you have an idea how much less line you need to run.
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Old 05-29-2002, 07:51 PM   #697
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Kaliboy....You say you've gone through 3 one ways already??? damn....where can you buy the Yok one way? Is it really better? I definetely want one, but i don't want to be replacing $50 diffs every week!
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Old 05-29-2002, 08:19 PM   #698
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It's available from Yokomo USA direct. Mine cost $71 shipped. The bearings are much bigger, almost 2x as big as the stock one-way. I doubt if you'll have problems with this one. It comes with outdrive bearings, and a new diff gear.
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Old 05-30-2002, 02:19 AM   #699
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I think Speedtech has them in stock for a better price. Check there.
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Old 05-30-2002, 07:47 PM   #700
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Thanks guys. I gave Steve a call yesterday. Hopefully it will make it here by Saturday. I refuse to buy another associated one way.
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Old 05-30-2002, 11:18 PM   #701
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Here's my "loose shock tower fix". 2 parts were bought to do this.

1)Team Associated TC3 Block Carrier bushings/Part#3874/Price: 4 for $6

2)Du-Bro 4-40X1-1/2" Socket head cap screws/Part#314/Price: 4 for $1.10

The cap screws were a 1/4" too long so I had to cut them down to 1-1/4". Du-Bro makes some 1-1/4" cap screws so your best bet is to buy them.
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Old 05-30-2002, 11:19 PM   #702
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Another pic.
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Old 05-31-2002, 07:56 PM   #703
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PW, man that pic is pretty clean! Nice mod but what is supporting the bottom of the tower to the diff case?? There needs to be a piece of aluminum tube cut to fit between the tower and case. With out the tube, the tower isn't being supported. When you tighten the screw down it would cause more stress on the tower and with a hard hit will break easier. Plus the upper case isn't really tight, the screw just goes through the hole and screws to the bottom case half.

The bushing and longer screw will work perfect with a piece of tubing between the two and will also tighten the case AND the tower at the same time. Wala
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Old 06-01-2002, 01:39 PM   #704
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Hi guys,

has anyone tried using an alternate pipe/manifold configuration on the NTC3 (rear/nonpull version)? The stock pipe/manifold is "ok" especially low end torque but I seem to be getting lesser rpm compared to the MT12/Nova 51602 combination.

It would be nice if AE would come out with a "special" manifold so we could use all the pipes that are available out there. Does anyone know if there are any available? what are the new dual chambers from AE like?
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Old 06-01-2002, 02:34 PM   #705
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How would they make a header that would allow a standard exhaust? There's no room for it on the rear exhaust version, unless you want to run the pipe over the rear shock tower, and use the stock header.
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