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Old 09-08-2004, 09:09 PM   #6991
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sean:

Before every race, I put threadlock on the screw that connects the dog bone and axle. I clean, lube and adjust the diff, rebuilt the damper with new oil, clean the one way hub and lube it, clean the clutch bell, clutch shoes and clutch housing.

I used not to do that much maintainence, but something will foul up if you are not thorough in maintainence. My laziness costed me a few race wins.

Alan
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Old 09-08-2004, 09:11 PM   #6992
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if you guys want i will send out some samples of the mercruiser teflon lube(special lube 101) its definatley better than stealth lube or black grease.
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Old 09-08-2004, 09:13 PM   #6993
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Sean:

Forgot to mention that you need to check if any screws are loosen before every qualification and race. TA screws do not hold to plastic well. Check the chassis if there is any twist. Adjust the middle screw in the servo saver.


Alan
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Old 09-09-2004, 12:11 AM   #6994
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I do lots of maintenance on my cars. I took out one shield out of every bearing so they must be cleaned and oiled before the next outing. PITA but it's worth the extra few seconds you'll gain. I check if the diffs are smooth. If not then I'll rebuild them. If you're running one way, clean them and relube. I actually put a drop of Serpent One Way Lube before every run. I put medium threadlock in ALL chassis screws. I put CA glue on the swing rack screws and rear v2 suspension upright scirews that screws in the hub. I'll also soak my bearings in WD40 overnight before a big race and relube them with Mobile 1 Synthetic 10w30 the next day.
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Old 09-09-2004, 01:24 AM   #6995
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One of the most important things to remember when running a One Way or a Spool is shimming correctly in the diff case. Using two shims on the gear side to tighten the gear mesh has made the most difference in keeping the gear from stripping. Make sure you replace the idler gear as much as you change diff gears. To keep the gears lubed and free I have been using White Lightning chain lube for Mountain Bikes (can be baught at any mountain bike shop). It starts as a liquid and then turns into a wax finish. This has worked the best for me and has made my gears last longer.

With the correct shimming in the front diff case your Spool, ONe-Way gear should last for a few races. If you have any questions you can PM me.

The only thing that is not a Factory Team part that I have added to my car is "The FIX". This product keeps the diff case from flexing when hitting a wall or other stationary object. If you hit anything with the power on, that is when the most flexing accurs.

Steve Chamberlain
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Old 09-09-2004, 04:43 AM   #6996
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yeah, i knew about the diff cases seperating and installed the FIX while i was assembling the car
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Old 09-09-2004, 12:05 PM   #6997
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
The dielectric grease works great for me. I think I was the one who spoke of it here. After switching to the newer mat. gears this year we have stripped or melted a single one. As for the black grease, it's nothing more than moly lube, it's use in mainly engine rebuilding. It can be purchased also at any Auto parts store.
Someone posted here about breaking mip shiny cvds. I said I had never broken one just bent a few. Now I can say they will break too!!
We use a spool in the front. This weekend we installed a new Srio modded by Dennis, this thing is balistic!!! Broke 2 mip shinys in the front and stripped second gear out of the car.( also, we never hit nothing, it just twisted the cvds out of the car) . I have never seen a car pull this hard. Can you say Horsepower!!!
We're a second faster a lap at local track. We also TQ'd last weekend and won the main!! Hell, we lapped the field!!
Great work Dennis!!! I'm sure the RD engines will live up to your expectations!!
try the ready to run cvds in the front trust me! in one crash last year with the mips i snapped 3 and bent the last one! if you look at the design of the rtr cvds they are made to be indestructible as compared to mip big dawgs or aluminum. i dont think the rtrs' can be broken.
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Old 09-09-2004, 02:05 PM   #6998
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But it can be weared out (the RTR black one).........I have couple that were weared out at the joints and the PIN (drive cup) area........

Then I realized 1 thing AE manuel never mentioned............put THICK GREASE at the joint and the drive cup (pin) area...those bone LAST MUCH MUCH longer.....
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Old 09-09-2004, 06:15 PM   #6999
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Quote:
Originally posted by hugh janus
try the ready to run cvds in the front trust me! in one crash last year with the mips i snapped 3 and bent the last one! if you look at the design of the rtr cvds they are made to be indestructible as compared to mip big dawgs or aluminum. i dont think the rtrs' can be broken.
Its twisting the cvds out from HP not from wrecks. But thanks! I'll look into them.
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Old 09-10-2004, 03:47 AM   #7000
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I too was stripping the front gears when running the one way. I noticed this became more frequent when the diff case screws got a little stripped from doing maintenance. At one race meeting I went through a front gear set in two races.

The cause seems to be that under power, the gear cases can distort and allow for the teeth to skip in extreme circumstances causing the gears to strip.

To solve this, I have installed the RDLogics alloy diff cases. I have not had an issue with the gears since. I have even taken to not refreshing the lube to see how long they will last as I now have an abundance of spares I'm not using. he he.

The alloy diff cases actually serve two purposes for me. One, they solved the gear stripping issue, and two, I no longer need to run extra weights to make the 1725gm rule for sanctioned events.

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 09-10-2004, 06:24 AM   #7001
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You can try using self tapping M3 screws to tighten the diff case. After trying that on the plastic diff case, I have not got any gear stripping problem. If the screw hole is stripped, put CA glue in there, and you can reuse the plastic case.
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Old 09-10-2004, 06:28 AM   #7002
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The rd cases add over 28 grams of weight. I tried the cases when the first came out and had to massage them alot to get proper brg. crush. Just remember to not over tighten the stock cases and use longer screws so you don't have to tighten so tight, works fine, have'nt stripped a case all year.I don't like them but if they work for you thats great!

I don't use alot of grease on the gears in the cases, too much grease will also cause the gears to over heat and melt.
I only service the diffs about once a month, but we only race 1 day a week. I would think servicing the diffs every weekend is kinda overkill. If the diff is smooth no need to service.
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Old 09-10-2004, 08:38 AM   #7003
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my cousin got a rtr ntc3 plau i wanan amke him upgrade his enigne what should he get the serio evo II rb conepts or mugen x 12? also does he need a new cltuch set for those engien and if so which one? an whih the thread shfta version or sg?
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Old 09-10-2004, 11:27 AM   #7004
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Mugen X12 on a RTR NTC3? Overkill....
I would say Mugen MT12, Sirio Econo, OS TR are all good standard but good enough to RACE club racing engines.

Fastest engine does not necessary = FASTER......most of the cases = Frustration.
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Old 09-10-2004, 04:10 PM   #7005
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Default Shorter dual chambered pipe for Baker?

My pipe...........



Baker's pipe



Is that something NEW? or custom made for Baker...........from what I heard, everyone want to get more top speed at that track, and I think the shorter FIRST chamber will boost to the top speed faster....? Correct me if I am wrong...
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