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Old 08-31-2004, 09:43 PM   #6931
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Thanks for making fun of me.....................(LOL) I think ROOKIE is not a very good selling point of a RACE MACHINE
Very true. I like all the suggestions you posted. I would like to see the NTC4 be more durable than its predecessor such as:

1. 4 mm 7075 T6 Aluminum chassis with reinforcements along side the shaft.
2. Gobs of carbon fiber and strong composites for added reinforcements.
3. Use RPM plastics like the ball cups and front bumper and add a rear nerf bar to protect the rear suspension. It's so vulnerable by getting hit from behind.
4. The gearing has to be improved since lots of motors are becoming more ballistic out there. Yes Centax Clutch III?
5. Make the gear cases smaller and lower as well as lower the shaft. Kimbrough or Delrin is fine. Prefer Alloys.
6. Fatter suspension arms front and rear.
7. Most important of all: Make it easer to adjust or change diffs.
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Old 09-01-2004, 04:48 AM   #6932
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The diffs are the easiest thing to adjust on the car!!! You have to use the special wrench that came with the kit and put the short end into the diff nut and adjust it. You don't have to take anything apart, unlike all the fluid diffs out there. Re-read the instructions if you arent' sure what I'm saying. Enjoy.

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Old 09-01-2004, 05:06 AM   #6933
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Default Re: Re: Centax

[
And for you........try 40 f/r or even 37f/r.............for me, faster lap times and a WIN are way more important then $20.

YES, it does solved my slipping problem..........25 minutes, 5 tanks NON STOP beating on the engine and running back and forward on a 100 feet straight kicking the 2-speed........at the end of the run, I still have the SAME SPEED of the straight compare to the first minutes, that means, the clutch is still kicking....

On Sunday race, my 2 shoes clutch was slipping after a 5 minutes main....I can tell because I didn't adjust nothing on engine and 2-speed but the car is definitely slower and the engine REV is so loud that I can hear that from the driver stand....

/B][/QUOTE]

Rookie,
About the 42 shore, I was locally bashing with our usual layout. I wasn't my best with them, but was good enough just as fast as the top 3.

Good to hear centax testing went well, I think I will wait till next year and see if the ntc4 comes out before getting the centax, unless I can pick up a used one.
I used to feel that losing power over time and though it was something with my tuning lol. I usually would notice it after at least an hour of steady running. You say you used the 2 shoe clutch. Have you tried the 3 shoe? I havn't used a 2 shoe since the first year. I may try my old crazy nut shoes with the ps12 and see what happens.
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Old 09-01-2004, 06:08 AM   #6934
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Default Wheel bearing

The wheel bearings are too small and damage easily. But I do not see many racers discuss the issue here. How you guy keep your bearing in good condition?
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Old 09-01-2004, 06:12 AM   #6935
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Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Next 3 years......? I wish that really happen....it is just too good to be true, but 3 years is a long time, I would say probably 1 year from now we should see the NTC4......

I am sure NTC4 will not use the pivot ball hingpin design like the TC4, those are for electric Touring car to adjust toe and dive by replace or add spacerd and blocks........NITRO does not need to replace or add anything, they just need wrenching on the pivot balls or camber links.

I would like to see NTC4 with the revision pertaining to the previoius problems that can be found on NTC3...

(1) shock towers....make it 1 piece with the upper diff case or like 3racing, a 1 piece mounting with the upper diff case then use a carbon fiber shock towers.....

(2) Fuel tank....any mod is better to eliminate those bubbles...

(3) More top speed on gears option (22/29T..?)...also, please update their 0.8 module so we can use different tooth combo and not limited to 4 T or 6T onlys (like OFNA or Hongnor design....)

(4) RPM bumper and ball cups, STANDARD.

(5) Stronger chassis.....3mm at least.

(6) Thicker front pivot balls like old Serpent cars?

(7) Front and rear ROLL CENTER options.......well, at least, more on the front....so the NTC4 can have the same options like 710 or MTX or FW-05R.

(8) Tank protection (if NTC4 are still using the same kind of pipe)...just pick up 3racing carbon side brace and put AE tag on it like Yokomo 1-way....

(9) Centax as a Factory Team option.....and redesign the standard 2 or 3 shoes clutch shoes/clutch.

Not even have 10 things to mod..........and I think that is a more then enough RACE READY machine....
as for me, I would like to see:

1)7075-T6 quality chassis
2)stronger fuel tank and better fuel cap (mine leaks at the seal!)
3)better pivot ball cap adjustment nut (why not follow the rest with a 5mm nut!).
4)std RE pipe with similar top end like the RDlogics pipe.
5)spur gears 47, 49, 51, 53 for more gear ratio option.


As for the clutch, I am pretty happy with the 2 or 3 shoe clutch, just need a bit of cleaning after running it. I have run my car non-stop for 5 tanks many times and no problems so far. Pretty happy otherwise.
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Old 09-01-2004, 06:15 AM   #6936
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Default Re: Wheel bearing

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Originally posted by alan
The wheel bearings are too small and damage easily. But I do not see many racers discuss the issue here. How you guy keep your bearing in good condition?
only broke 1 so far after runing for more than 1 year and I broke it co I was a newbie then, keep hitting the wall and fence. After I learnt how to drive better, no more problems. Just grease them once a while. Never broke any since. Could it be you driving into the boards or walls or zero oiling? Go take the seals out once a while and oil them.
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Old 09-01-2004, 06:23 AM   #6937
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The diffs are the easiest thing to adjust on the car!!! You have to use the special wrench that came with the kit and put the short end into the diff nut and adjust it. You don't have to take anything apart, unlike all the fluid diffs out there. Re-read the instructions if you arent' sure what I'm saying. Enjoy.
I know how to adjust diffs. What I meant is getting access to them. You have to loosen lots of screws on the diff gear case and then take off the dog bones. Finally you get access to them. I'd like to find some way to adjust them on the spot before and maybe during a race while getting fuel. That'll be cool.
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Old 09-01-2004, 06:38 AM   #6938
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
I know how to adjust diffs. What I meant is getting access to them. You have to loosen lots of screws on the diff gear case and then take off the dog bones. Finally you get access to them. I'd like to find some way to adjust them on the spot before and maybe during a race while getting fuel. That'll be cool.
like swen said, go find the 2mm allen driver included in your NTC3 when you purchase it, use the shorter end and put it in the outdrive without having to remove any screw, you should then be able to adjust the diff easily by turning the wheel on the other side.
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Old 09-01-2004, 06:48 AM   #6939
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Quote:
Originally posted by revzalot
I know how to adjust diffs. What I meant is getting access to them. You have to loosen lots of screws on the diff gear case and then take off the dog bones. Finally you get access to them. I'd like to find some way to adjust them on the spot before and maybe during a race while getting fuel. That'll be cool.
thats wgy the one end of the 2mm allen wrench is short-so you can slip it in the outdrive with the dog bone still in. i missed that at first too, i thought they screwed up the wrench-
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Old 09-01-2004, 08:25 AM   #6940
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Damn i been doing the long way the whole time. What i use to do is acutally just take off da top suspenison arm to adjust the diff. And that was pretty quick. But i guess AE had a quicker way after all
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Old 09-01-2004, 11:12 AM   #6941
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I bought mine used and never received a 2 mm wrench. I'll look for one and I'll try it. Thanks.
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Old 09-01-2004, 11:16 AM   #6942
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Default Re: Wheel bearing

Quote:
Originally posted by alan
The wheel bearings are too small and damage easily. But I do not see many racers discuss the issue here. How you guy keep your bearing in good condition?
Check out

www.acerracing.com

They got one of the best (bearing) balls in the business.
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Old 09-01-2004, 11:39 AM   #6943
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Default Re: Wheel bearing

Quote:
Originally posted by alan
The wheel bearings are too small and damage easily. But I do not see many racers discuss the issue here. How you guy keep your bearing in good condition?
make sure that if you use cleaners like motor spray to clean off gunk on your car and inside wheels that you re-oil bearings!!!
the cleaners breaks down the grease in the bearings=short bearing life!!!

also a few posts backon the subject of cvd's: that when running a spool you should run shiny cvds from mip. those are defintely better than the blue alum, which i dont think should ever be run on the front, but you may also wanna try the ready to runs. they are by far stronger that ANYTHING on the market! i have tried everything available, i have never warped one of these or broken. after a year of racing i have recently replaced them for a new set because of excessive slop from them being worn out! they are one of the few items available for the ntc3 that are durable.

to whoever posted about the cvd's, i'm not trying to be a weiner head. just thought id let you guys know.
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Old 09-01-2004, 05:51 PM   #6944
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anybody running Lola,Can Am or GTP style bodies on there NTC3's? if so which one would work well. i am concerned about the fron shock tower
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Old 09-01-2004, 06:02 PM   #6945
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Quote:
Originally posted by sean
anybody running Lola,Can Am or GTP style bodies on there NTC3's? if so which one would work well. i am concerned about the fron shock tower
I have had good luck with just about all of them. They will have to be modified for the front schock tower. The only one that fits right on it the pti body. It doesn't handle as good as the lolas though.
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