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Old 08-24-2004, 06:46 PM   #6886
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Originally posted by Rookie Solara
Yeah, I know I will get the centax today when I get home, but now, someone mentioned I have to use OFNA engine mount and cut this and that.................that really bother me.

I thought it was a straight fit. hmmm

And also, that 29T really doesn't matter for me...........it is the SLIPPING that very bother me, when you have a powerfull engine like X12 but all you see your car is running the same speed as a 3 port side exhaust engine, you know there is something wrong...

I run a ps12 which is as fast as any of the 5 port I run against. Closest to me was a jp rs 5port the lhs owner ran. I did run against a serpant 710 with an x-12 on it. It did have some top end on me on a hugh straight. But I did have low and mid range on him which was more than enough. Wanted to see what the 29tooth could do since I sometimes run on an 1/8 scale size track.

(new clutch shoes from AE lasted me like 1 qualifier and start slipping again......so you can see how powerfull that engine is...)
Maybe this is where I should look too.
I never did cut any holes in the shoes. I used to run the crazy nut shoes. They worked well, but they were alot of work.
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Old 08-24-2004, 06:50 PM   #6887
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Rookie,
I messed up the reply and put my replies in your text.
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Old 08-25-2004, 08:44 AM   #6888
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Quote:
Originally posted by CHUCKMANDO
Rookie,
I messed up the reply and put my replies in your text.
No biggie, and I really appreicate your opinion, at least my point of attack is not far off..........beside, I totally forgot I also has a MIP clutch for NTC3 which I found very HARD to engage when I was using some low-HP engine before...I will give that a shot before I head down to the Mugen Centax.

I've got the centax last night.....engine mount of NTC3 does fit, no need to mod, but the reaosn why using the OFNA/HongNor engine mount is better fit is because the Mugen centax's 2nd pinion gear DOES have a slight chance to RUB against the 1st spur gear when it was engaged....(I know cause there were several ppl reported that they stripped their 1st spur gear before...)

With the OFNA engine mount, you can slide the engine backward a little in order to get a better fit....

The other way to do it is SHIM the 2-speed gear box a little to make the 1st and 2nd spur gear a little more ROOM apart...

The last way to do it is SHAVE about 3-5mm off the material of the 27T pinion gear....which required some good tools and good workmanship skill....
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Old 08-25-2004, 08:47 AM   #6889
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Quote:
Originally posted by CHUCKMANDO
Maybe this is where I should look too.
I never did cut any holes in the shoes. I used to run the crazy nut shoes. They worked well, but they were alot of work.
And about the shoes with HOLES........I don't think that has to do with the GRIB to the housing, drill holes and cutting shoes only adjust the timing of the engagment point....
Clutch slipping has to do with the shoes material and the surface of the housing....
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Old 08-25-2004, 08:55 PM   #6890
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hey guys i am new to nitro and 2-speeds and i wanted to know how to figure out what combinations of spur/pinions i can use. its clear you cant just start swaping gears or they wont mesh because both sets are on the same shaft. for example if i wanted to switch to the silver20/green25 pinions how do i figure out what to spurs i need to mesh right? i am sure there is a simple formula or rule but i just dont know what it is. thanks,sean
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Old 08-25-2004, 09:30 PM   #6891
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i would stick with 20/26 for a small track and 21/27 for a larger track, this is the most commonly used combo, with 48/54 spurs
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Old 08-26-2004, 04:01 AM   #6892
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The easiest rule to follow is stick with the same split. 20/24 pinion & 50/54 spur gives you a split of 4. Mix & Match with whatever you like just make sure the split is the same.
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:04 AM   #6893
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
And about the shoes with HOLES........I don't think that has to do with the GRIB to the housing, drill holes and cutting shoes only adjust the timing of the engagment point....
Clutch slipping has to do with the shoes material and the surface of the housing....
Agreed. I put on the harder springs 2 years ago, and use the 3 shoe clutch. Works well, but I guess my point was I never really expiremented with clutch engagement. Also, I clean off and lightly scuff both the bell and the shoes.
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:24 AM   #6894
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rookie Solara
[I also has a MIP clutch for NTC3 which I found very HARD to engage when I was using some low-HP engine before...
I've got the centax last night.....engine mount of NTC3 does fit, no need to mod, but the reaosn why using the OFNA/HongNor engine mount is better fit is because the Mugen centax's 2nd pinion gear DOES have a slight chance to RUB against the 1st spur gear when it was engaged....(I know cause there were several ppl reported that they stripped their 1st spur gear before...)

With the OFNA engine mount, you can slide the engine backward a little in order to get a better fit....

The last way to do it is SHAVE about 3-5mm off the material of the 27T

I only used the mip clutch on my mistake, I mean my sons rs43ss.

Not quite sure. Are you using the mugen centax or just the gears? I was think of the new ofna power centax, but if the mugen is better, maybe I will look to that. I am still undicided if I will try. Not sure the gain will = the cost.

Another subject. Is it just me or is anyone else running faster with the ver 1? I finally gave up with the one way, and I just put a dif in the front of the ver2. Tired of stripping gears. I did stay mostly close to the book on set up. I am now setting the car as I have the ver1(which sticks like rails). Maybe I can test tonight or Sat before racing sunday.The real kicker is I have the ps12 in ver 2 which rocks and a 2yo smeltz mod rbx12 which is quick in ver1, but no way has the same power,
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:20 PM   #6895
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by CHUCKMANDO
Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
[I also has a MIP clutch for NTC3 which I found very HARD to engage when I was using some low-HP engine before...
I've got the centax last night.....engine mount of NTC3 does fit, no need to mod, but the reaosn why using the OFNA/HongNor engine mount is better fit is because the Mugen centax's 2nd pinion gear DOES have a slight chance to RUB against the 1st spur gear when it was engaged....(I know cause there were several ppl reported that they stripped their 1st spur gear before...)

With the OFNA engine mount, you can slide the engine backward a little in order to get a better fit....

The last way to do it is SHAVE about 3-5mm off the material of the 27T

I only used the mip clutch on my mistake, I mean my sons rs43ss.

Not quite sure. Are you using the mugen centax or just the gears? I was think of the new ofna power centax, but if the mugen is better, maybe I will look to that. I am still undicided if I will try. Not sure the gain will = the cost.

Another subject. Is it just me or is anyone else running faster with the ver 1? I finally gave up with the one way, and I just put a dif in the front of the ver2. Tired of stripping gears. I did stay mostly close to the book on set up. I am now setting the car as I have the ver1(which sticks like rails). Maybe I can test tonight or Sat before racing sunday.The real kicker is I have the ps12 in ver 2 which rocks and a 2yo smeltz mod rbx12 which is quick in ver1, but no way has the same power,
I don't think the MIP Clutch on RS43SS = the NTC3 one, the NTC3 one is larger in the inside diameter.
I use Mugen Clutch is because, it is cheaper...(got it used with 21/27 0.8 mod for $30)...........I just need to shim the 1st gear housing and then I will shim a little more behind the 1st spur to get the clearence on the centax when it engage. I am using the whole MTX3 clutch with MTX3 0.8 gears...you can't just use mugen pinion on NTC3 clutch.

The thing is......if your car is fast enough and no slipping problem, don't do the centax..........I do centax cause I ran out of option about the clutch problem, and I know for sure the CENTAX will lowered the chance for slipping...........but it will INCREASE the chance for internal gear stripping, just keep in mind cause the centax will generate more PUNCH from the engine to the 2-speed then to the diff gears....

My V2 run as fast as V1...but seems like it happen a little better then V1....if you read the foam setup for V2 compare to V1, they are totally different, cause V2 is base upon using front 1-way and V1 using both diff............but if you are using front diff, stick with the V2 setup, it is just a little understeer and a 37 shore will work
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Old 08-26-2004, 07:56 PM   #6896
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I pretty much tore the v2 apart, I had been using the book setup. Now I have it the same as my ver1 with the front dif added. Should be a good test this weekend.
On tires, I haven't used under 40s yet this summer. I will be using 42s all around this weekend. With my driving style, I would eat up 37s in no time. Maybe I should learn to drive a little smoother lol but so far so good.
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Old 08-28-2004, 05:47 PM   #6897
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let me just ask this-even though the guy fro AE told me i could do this i don see how it could work...the NTC3 comes with a 50/54 spur and a 22/26 pinion. there is a difference of 4 teeth. with out thinking i ordered a 20/25 pinion set. that is a differnce of 5 teeth. iwas told i could use it, in fact i was told that i could use up to a 6 tooth spread. but it just doesnt make sense to me. for example --according to AE i could use a 20/26 spur with the stock 50/54 spur. i dont know why they would say that. if you meshed up the 26 pinion to its respective spur, you cant just expect the 20 pinion to mesh because it wont. it is now too small.now just for my own knowledge i am going to assume that if there is a 5 tooth difference btween the spurs-there has to be a 5 tooth difference between the pinions, in other words always the same differnce in teeth between the two sets of gears. am i right? i know i could just try but i have not had much time latley and this questin has been bugging me. if anyone thinks that the 20/25 pinion will not be a problem with the 50/54 spur, let me know and i will install them. i wanted to drop a couple of teeth on the pinion for more punch. and i need to know how to order gears from now on.
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Old 08-28-2004, 07:30 PM   #6898
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There has been people using 20/27 54/48 (7-6 difference) on page195 or so. So 5-4 difference should be just fine.
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Old 08-28-2004, 07:54 PM   #6899
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Before I got my ps12, I mainly ran a 20/27 ratio. You should have no problem, just take a little care in setting up your mesh.
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Old 08-28-2004, 09:20 PM   #6900
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When I run my NTC3 with the AE.12 pullstart engine, I will be using either 20/25 54/50 or 21/26 54/50. No problems so far with the meshing and I think its because I am using GH chassis which allows me to tilt the engine a little bit. I have also tried 20/27 54/48, it works but shifting will bog down the engine if not set correctly.
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