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Old 08-11-2004, 10:21 AM   #6826
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lol never mind the kit i need is the #2319
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Old 08-12-2004, 03:26 PM   #6827
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Can someone tell me how dust and weather resistant the NTC3 receiver box is...?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMA0&P=7
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Old 08-12-2004, 04:43 PM   #6828
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It is pretty good as it is, if you want it better you would have to put a bit of silicone around the holes in the bottom for your wiring. I personaly just use it as is & have had no problems.
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:27 AM   #6829
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Suj: 2 speed one way

The one way in my 2 speed suddenly locked up, which caused the 2nd spur stripped. I cannot take out the 2nd spur because the one way locks on the shaft very tight. I need to replace the entire 2 speed.

My question is what is the proper method to maintain the one way? How often do you maintain it? Do you lube it?
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Old 08-16-2004, 11:46 AM   #6830
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I know you can use both, but what would perform better? A long shaft or a short shaft with adapter...Is there any performance/matinence difference?

BTW: I have plans on using a KFactory 3 Shoe Hardened Clutch if that matters

And...Does anyone have experience with Team Infinity motors?
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Old 08-16-2004, 03:59 PM   #6831
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Quote:
Originally posted by raceblast
Suj: 2 speed one way

The one way in my 2 speed suddenly locked up, which caused the 2nd spur stripped. I cannot take out the 2nd spur because the one way locks on the shaft very tight. I need to replace the entire 2 speed.

My question is what is the proper method to maintain the one way? How often do you maintain it? Do you lube it?
Serpent makes a good one way bearing lube, I do mine after every 2 hours running.
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Old 08-16-2004, 04:02 PM   #6832
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Black Kat
I know you can use both, but what would perform better? A long shaft or a short shaft with adapter...Is there any performance/matinence difference?

BTW: I have plans on using a KFactory 3 Shoe Hardened Clutch if that matters

And...Does anyone have experience with Team Infinity motors?
SG Shaft (long) are less prone to being out of balance than short shaft engines. This is due to the extention shaft/flywheel nut being a seperate piece. Most high performance engines are SG shaft.

Never seen a team infinity engine except on EBAY.
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Old 08-16-2004, 05:14 PM   #6833
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Black Kat
I know you can use both, but what would perform better? A long shaft or a short shaft with adapter...Is there any performance/matinence difference?

BTW: I have plans on using a KFactory 3 Shoe Hardened Clutch if that matters

And...Does anyone have experience with Team Infinity motors?
I ran a Team Infinity Katana 312TB engine this Sunday just gone. I was fairly impressed with it for the dollars. However there is a bit of work to do to make it reliable before you can harness some of the performance.

The head is held on with M2 screws. Once I removed and tightened these a couple of times, the thread in the case stripped. So I replaced all with M3 screws after tapping the case to accept them.

There are 2 screws that hold the carb to the extension these motors have, you MUST threadlock these as if one falls out, it goes straight to full throttle (I know!).

Apart from that, break it in with a high heat cycle and it should be ok. The fastest guy at out track was running 16.8 second laps, and I was making 17.2 second laps with an evil handling car (tweaked chassis).

Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Mike.
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Old 08-16-2004, 06:56 PM   #6834
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I don't know if anyone is doing this but how would the ntc3 handle running the blade type roll bar in the front & rear?
Would it work fine if the front had the blades set firm in the front and at the softest setting in the rear?
Is this overkill?
How will the car handle?
Thanx
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Old 08-16-2004, 07:29 PM   #6835
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I work with the blade frot and rear sometimes. It finintely keeps the car flate to the ground. You would have to be on a high bite perfectly smooth track and haved about 5 droop front and rear about 4 mm ride height I have tried them on a high bite bumpy track and had to take the rear bar off and run the front at 0 to 45 degrees.
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Old 08-16-2004, 08:23 PM   #6836
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EVERYONE I've talked to runs a wire-style swaybar. NOBODY knows why but EVERYONE just does it...Not trying to flame you, just point out in caps what I noticed which could be important. Running the wire-bar could be a cost thing...it could just work better. Seems like a wire-style would prevent body roll better than a blade where a blade would just stiffen the suspension action more....Maybe its one of those "Same thing, different effect" issues

BTW: I use the BRP .78 sway bar with a front blade and it worked great. Only things limiting me were a slight push (was running 42/40 tires..the locals say same shore all around would help next time) and limited ability/power (new to nitro and using an AE .15 ATM)
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Old 08-16-2004, 08:56 PM   #6837
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. I love the blade on the front it sometimes help dial in or out rear traction. I have all the wire bars also and did'nt seem to find them of much help, I 'm sure theres some but the blade is easier for to work with. We had baically had same effects with a wire bar on the rear but maybe just maybe alittle less, but really never tried adjust bar other than
stock length. To me a blade bar is the only true sway bar made for a touring car, wire sways just don't get it for us, a wire bar like you said kinda flexes more and does'nt get the same effect everytime, that's good for some peoples set up and bad for others, its all in how you want the car to drive. A wire sway makes the car dip more, thats good and bad! I think, with a good setup for each blad and wire bars, I'm sure they both have their advantages.
My car works very well with same shocksprings,piston and shockoils and tire shore front and rear now so we're just driving it. I have a small traction roll problem with the BM! gen2 chassis Ican't get rid of. Tried spings and shock oils and ride height, tires and still have small tractioroll issue.. But... Damn its faster than its ever been in 3 years of racing the car.

This is just our experiences, i;m sure others work different for them, better and worst. BB
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Old 08-16-2004, 09:40 PM   #6838
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What is traction roll? What causes it?
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Old 08-17-2004, 01:45 AM   #6839
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a traction roll is just what it says .. the car gets too much traction on the outside tires of the turn and it literally picks up the inside tires and flips the car into a rollover... this happens a bunch in electric carpet racing, and on the higher speed high grip nitro circuits.

I just wish i could get this high speed push out of my car .. its starting to drive me batty ..

ok .. here goes .. I have a high speed MAJOR push like the car is carrying the front tires down the straight heres the set up I have on it right now

front

nitro shoes 40 shore fronts 28 mm
9* caster
2* camber
0* toe in
5 mm ride height
droop 4
no roll bar
std ackerman no bumpsteer spacers and rtr drive shafts
red spring with 70 wt oil and a #3 piston
shock mounted all the way out in the top body post hole and outside on the arm
camber link in the inner lower position
tires wear even across the face and dont wear very quickly

rear

jaco nitro shoes rears 40 shore 30mm
2* camber
2* toe in
5.5 mm ride height
no roll bar
copper spring with 40 wt oil and a #3 piston
V2 rear suspension camber link in the middle hole
shock in the middle hole
droop of 4
tires wear pretty evenly across the face or just a slight bit of coning to indicate more camber is on the outside tire in the highspeed sections

General

runing a stratus 2.0 body
right at the 1725 gram weight limit without transponder
running a rev happy mugen motor with 54/21 1st and 50/25 2nd
diffs set for 1/2 turn out front ... 1/4 turn out rear ( this helped a bit on the high speed but made the back end too loose in the slow sections so I went back to 1/2 front and 3/4 rear for the main )

any suggestions .. this is on a temporary parking lot track treated with sprayed down pop for a traction additive its a medium grip semi bumpy ashpalt location so I couldnt go down with the ride heights or start scraping

things I tried .. ride height at 4 and 4.5 mm respectively .. 60wt with a #3 piston in the front .. 12* caster .. 3* camber .. not together but individually ..

I am about at my wits end with this .. its only in the two highspeed sweepers that I have to really slow down to get it through .. most other cars are hitting these sections just about wide open .. going onto the straight I can do about 3/4 throttle and going off I have to lift to about 1/2 throttle and burp the breaks to keep off the outer barriers

any thoughts or hints would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance and have fun racing

E
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Old 08-17-2004, 05:53 AM   #6840
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hi roddude65:

Do you mean your car understeers at corner? If so, try 60W oil, piston 3, purple spring in front, 40W oil, piston 3, red spring in back? 70W oil in front may be too hard.

For me, My NTC3 settings is:

Front
60W oil,
piston 3, purple spring
2 toe out
standard caster, standard camber link
1/8 turn out diff
camber 2
ride height 5
GQ 40 tire

Rear
40W oil,
piston 2
silver spring
2 toe in
standard camber link
1/8 turn out diff
camber 2
ride height 6
GQ 40 tire

This is not a perfect setup, but it works for me. The car is a bit twitchy, one needs to be very gentle with the throttle. (no sudden hard accelerate!)

With my setup, for tight corner, I can late brake at corner entry, accelerate at apex of corner, the rear of the car will slide out to make the tight turn. I am still experimenting in improving the setup.
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