luketob

iTrader: (2)

Anyone knows how to get kfactory stuffs here in the state?

FFR3582

I think stealth lube would be fine, that is what I have been using for the past few months with no ill affects.

If you have stripped the gears and bent the CVD's then your problem is from hitting things most likely not the type of lube you used.

try rebuilding things and monitor the parts after every run and check things really well each time you have an accident.


Good Luck

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

Thats a new one

Stick with the Stealth Lube, it is the right stuff for the job. CVDs & one way gears get damaged from hitting things.

ZipZap

iTrader: (1)

If your dogbones are bent, it's likely hitting things that did it. I have destroyed diff gears by having my centax too tight on a peppy motor. I can't believe that I could bend a dogbone, however.

Stealth lube, or green slime works fine.

JDMboy

Sup everyone

Need some input......I have Ko Propo set up in my NTC3 and I just purchased the Ko Propo electrical switch and the fail safe adapter

Question is if anyone is running these 2 parts where did u mount them?

I have the K-Factory graphite top plates and it looks tricky.

Just looking for some peoples set ups for this.
Likes and dislikes about this would be cool also

Thanx

wild gopher

iTrader: (39)

can you guys give me a general re-sell value of a FTNTC3 roller. I have one I need to get rid but have no idea what they are worth

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

I bought a couple recently off ebay, both were version 2 cars.

The used one (if you could call it that, only had 1 race meeting on it) came with K-factory carbon fibre top and side plates, aluminium input cup and brake brearing cap, tyres, body, pipe, spare diff, rx battery etc for US$202.

Hope this gives you an indication.

Cheers,

Mike.

raceblast

The race club that I race at only allows .12 standard 3 port engine. This is my first nitro racing season. I have been racing the NTC3 with 21/27 and 54/48 gearing. The car is equipped with the Nova Rossi RS12 S1 engine with team associated dual chamber pipe, 2 shoe clutch, gold clutch spring. No other modification is done on the car.

I ran the S1 engine at 270 degree. My NTC3 is still not as fast as two 710 cars. I am sure that the problem is not due to my driving since I always won 2nd or 3rd in the A main. I seldom hit. Maybe, the 2nd gear shifts a tiny little bit late. Anyway, I want to find out what I can improve in the setup so that I can catch up the Serpent guys.

What is the maximum temperature I can run the RS12 S1 engine at when the ambient temp is around 24 degree? I was told by one guy that the engine should be adjusted to run below 250. However, The guy who won told me that he adjusted the engine to run at around 300 or above in all the races. He said engine temperature should be adjusted to stay at or below 250 only when one is running 1/8 or VDS lola body. Is it true?

One fast guys drive a 710 with an old version of Nova Rossi Michael Salven something. Another fast guy drives a NTC3 with a brand new Nova Rossi engine. I know that S1 is past year engine, but do their engines inherently have higher performance than my S1? Is it possible to tune my S1 engine to have very close performance to the top engines in the market?


Also, Does the Serpent 710 have gearings that are faster than the 21/27 54/48 NTC3 gearing? There is one really fast guy that zooms past everybody on the straight, even though his car does not handle the turn very well. It is quite annoying that I beat him in all the turns, but at the straight, his car just flies right by.

He told me the 710 is faster. I don't believe him. He definitely has the best engine because he is sort of sponsored by a hobby shop. Plus, he is an expert in engine tuning also.

The following is my setup:

chassis: stock blue
front shock oil 60W (stock piston for the front)
front spring purple
rear spring red
rear shock oil 40w (stock piston for the rear)
front tire shore 45 Fast tire
rear tire shore 37 Fast tire
front ride height 5.5
rear ride height 6 (or 6.5)
no front rear anti-roll bar
front and rear camber 3 degree
rear toe in 2
front toe out 2
default factory recommended caster angle, camber link, droopackerman

To get more steering, I adjust the diff such that
front diff loosen 1/8 turn
rear diff loosen 1/8 turn

The above setup runs well for the about 80 laps. The rear tires almost have no foam left in the final few laps, the chassis starts to touch the ground on the side. If I want to use 40 shore tires for front and rear to maintain equal tire wear, what setting should I change?

FFR3582

The temperature of the engine doesn't always mean it is running lean/fast if you any issues with the head shimming, plug, fuel, etc.. it can run hot and be under powered. I try not to go over about 250-255 at most. Although I have run as high as 270 on a very few occasions when it is really hot out like 100* plus.

I would say your motor should be able to keep up with the other guys if it is in good working condition and tuned right. I am running a slightly modified MT12 with a single chamber pipe and 3 shoe clucth and was down a little on power but it was not a big difference form the guys running Palmaris, OS factory driver, etc.. At first I was down on power because of some bad fuel and wrong temperature range of plug, once i fixed those two things it was liek a new motor! it dropped 40* and started to run like it should.

The NTC3 has a very free drivetrain that puts the power down that you make very well.



I would make certain your car is shifting at the correct point on the straight becasue you will loose some ground if it shifts late on every lap. This can make a big difference. Also is your gearing correct for your track? If it is a small to medium track I would go down a tooth on each pinion or up on the spur. This will help get your motor in the power band sooner but you will loose some top end if the straight away is long. I have seen a lot of guys that have screaming top end on their cars that are pretty much out of control at the end of the straightaway when they go into the sweeper (they usaully don't let off until it is to late).

check your motor over and make sure it is running perfect and has good pinch.

good luck

raceblast

I am using 2 shoe clutch on the NTC3. Just wondering if I will upgrade to the 3 shoe clutch. Does 3 shoe clutch provide better performance if I use Nova Ross RS12 S1? Has anyone tried this combination?

I heard 3 shoe clutch should only be used with powerful engine. Well, no one mentions which non turbo engine falls into this powerful engine category.

ttso

iTrader: (1)

In fact I've almost all screw replaced with Titanium screw. So it will be under-weight for sure.

What I'm planing to do is get as light weight as possible, and add some balance close to front wheel on chassis. The goal is meet our local weight limit (1700g) and at the same time to make 4wheels as weight balance as possible, just like ETC3 (very close to 50/50/50/50 if you get everything right). I don't know if 4wheel weight balanced works on nitro 1/10, but it works on elec 1/10. Guess I have to findout by myself.

Btw
Is anyone every use this aftermarket pipe from JPL?
http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...oducts_id=4532


How is it?? The design looks better than RD's 2chambers pipe, but how it works in real world?? Compare to RD and AE 2chamber pipe.

Richman

Hello Guys my Name is Rich i am new to RC Nitro Car's and me and my Wife are Looking to just have some Racing Fun

this is my Car that i have now i just got it but have not run it as of yet it's the

Team Associated Nitro TC3 #2031 rear exhaust. 4wd Touring car 1:10 scale kit
this is what i have on it so far

please tell me if i mist any thing or shuold redo some thing to make it even better

Mugen MT .12 Rage modified "outlaw" engine


with all available hop-ups.

Complete carbon upgrade.

"The Fix" front and rear.

Woven Graphite radio tray.

RPM front bumper.

Solid rear axle. Diff up front.

Have Yokomo one way

Updated fuel tank.

Futaba s9101 Throttle is a High Speed Coreless Ball Bearing Servo Torque: 43 oz. Transit Time: .18 sec


Futaba s9402 steering Hi-Speed Coreless Ball Bearing High-Torque Servo Torque: 89 oz Transit time: .13 secit's

Medial Protires on RPM wheels

Flat Blade style front sway bar

Rear sway bar

did i forget any thing i need

ZipZap

iTrader: (1)

Lot's of practice. If you've never driven RC cars before, you'll have your hands full. You've built a rocket.

Get a failsafe. Also, get yourself the v2 upgrade if you plan to race. It can be found for about $30. It converts the rear end to a better, more repeatable/stable set-up.

I am interested why you went with a solid rear axle and diff front. I would think that would produce a pretty loose car. I've run a solid front before, which makes the car real tight on entry.

FFR3582

Richman- I would put the diff in the rear of the car and the one-way in the front if it is a larger track that you race on. If it is a small track a diff in the front and rear would probably be best to start with.

Richman

is this the Kit your talking about and will it work on my kit my kit is the #2031


http://www.teamassociated.com/shusti...c3/kitntc3.htm


Q: What are the parts for the Ver. 2 rear suspension?
A: Parts for version 2.0 NTC3 rear end:
#2237, NTC3 Rear Shock Tower Ver. 2. (Not for #2030, 2031, 2040 with earlier suspension.), 1, $5.00
#2238, NTC3 Rear Suspension Arms Ver. 2. (Not for #2030, 2031, 2040 with earlier suspension.), 2, $8.00
#2268, NTC3 Rear Hub Carriers Ver. 2 (Not for #2030, 2031, 2040 with earlier suspension.), 2, $5.00
#2271, NTC3 Rear Turnbuckle Eyelet & Balls, set, $7.50
#2275, NTC3 Front/Rear Arm Mounts Ver. 2. (Not for #2030, 2031, 2040 with earlier suspension.), 2, $5.00
#2283, NTC3 Rear Turnbuckle .825". (Not for #2030, 2031, 2040 with earlier suspension.), 2, $5.00
#2308, NTC3 M3 x 18mm BHSC, 6, $2.00
#2309, M3 Nyloc Nut, 6, $2.00

Or get #2319 NTC3 Ver. 2 Upgrade Kit, molded composite parts, $35.00, with instructions