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Old 08-03-2004, 07:11 PM   #6796
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with diff settings as posted, front 5/8ths out and rear 1/8th out, no wonder you have a steering problem, you have them backwards. It's not even pulling on the front wheels.
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Old 08-03-2004, 07:23 PM   #6797
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I adjusted the diff according to the manual.

The tighter the rear diff, the more steering the car has
the more loose the front diff, the more steering the car has
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Old 08-03-2004, 07:41 PM   #6798
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Default Front one way

You may want to try a front one way diff. It provides great drivability.
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Old 08-03-2004, 08:23 PM   #6799
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Quote:
Originally posted by raceblast
kidDynomite:

I laid the NTC3 wheels off on the hudy board, and I am able to rock the chassis from side to side a small bit. I guess the chassis is twisted slightly then. Well, I guess I need to invest in a 7075 chassis. Can anyone recommend a NTC3 7075 chassis?
I believe that all chassis are not completely flat. It never can be 100% flat. Since I have ruined my original chassis, I am now using GH7075, very good and tough. I have seen ppl using the K-fac 7075, good too. In fact my GH chassis is thicker but slightly lighter than original. If you are going to get the GH chassis, dont waste your money on the motor mounts, they just dont fit properly. Use the AE motor mounts. Also with GH chassis I have been able to use 20/25, 21/26 and some other combination coz I can twist the motor slightly to accept the gearing. Works well but have to be doubly sure on the gear spacing.


Quote:
Originally posted by raceblast
To avoid the diff gear stripping problem, I replace TA screws with Tamiya tapping screw (M3) on diff housing, 2 speed bulk and shock suspension joints. I use 2 shims on each side of the diff instead of 1 shim as suggested by the manual. I make sure there is no end play in the diff.


Alan
Never had this problem. I am stll using the 4/40 screws but am using 4/40 1/2. Putting 2 shims sounds like it will coz friction to your diff bearing. Does it roll smoothly? Maybe you want to try the RDL's alum. gearbox.
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Old 08-03-2004, 09:16 PM   #6800
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what effects does a front one way have. i may borrow my friends and try it. i already know it takes away front brakes, but would it give me better turn in, and easier steering?
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Old 08-05-2004, 08:34 PM   #6801
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Quote:
Originally posted by raceblast
I adjusted the diff according to the manual.

The tighter the rear diff, the more steering the car has
the more loose the front diff, the more steering the car has
OK!!
Whatever you think!!!!!
In 3 years of racing the NTC3 I've never had to run the front diff that loose, and I race mostly all tight short tracks where you need all the steering you can get.So if you had to back the front diff off that much to get steering, how would you get steering with a oneway??? With the front diff that loose all it would do is push the car through the corners. I don't think I have ever read that in a manual. I thought the manual says not to back the diff off anymore than 1/2 to 5/8. But... It's been 3 years since I have even seen the manua.
I thought the only time you read the manual is when all else fails!l
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Old 08-06-2004, 02:04 AM   #6802
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I've some questions regarding centax. Readed the post from p195 to latest twice but still can't get a better picture..

If I put a Mugen micro flywheel centax with 0.8 pinon gears, do I need to replace 2speed with Mugen 2speed?? Or it's a drop-in replacement??

Also, the Yokomo NTC3 centax, said be same spec with Mugen. Is the parts for Mugen centax (flyweight, shoe, bell) are also good for Yokomo NTC3 centax??


I know it's not necessary for NTC3 to use centax clutch. But I like to give it a try (nope, I won't try HN or KFactory centax).
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Old 08-06-2004, 02:41 AM   #6803
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drove a ntc3 for quite a while before switching to an mtx-3. definatly go with the centax. way more efficient power delivery. the k-factory is not a bad one. thrust bearing is interchangeable with mugen as well as all of the gearing options. I will never run a 2 shoe or 3 shoe again. it is definatly that good. I didnt start getting fast at my local track until I got 1. Look on ebay, I got mine for about 70 bucks shipped.

BTW: not trying to pimp mugen or anything., but you all of you that have durability problems, look into the mtx3. I dont have to worry about , oops I hit that board slightly, I might have broke an a-arm. the stock mugen plastic can take a beating and the car will make you feel so much more confident. Unless of course you are Barry Baker.
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Old 08-06-2004, 03:28 AM   #6804
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hey guys, run tc3 for the first time today, i'm pretty new to tc3 scene and it's my 1st shaft drive, really like the car, it's different driving style and i still need to get used to it since i've been driving belt drive cars for quite a while. So far having problem adjusting the throttle control, i suspect maybe the servo horn position makes my throttle so twitchy, how the throttle horn suppose to be? Can anybody help? Thanks
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Old 08-06-2004, 06:23 AM   #6805
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hi ttso:

Regarding the mugen .8 clutch, I was told that it does not work with the NTC3 stock pinion gear. nor the spur gears. U need to buy the Mugen .8 gears. Also, I was told that the mugen pinion gears are thicker than the NTC3 pinion gears. One of the pinion gears may hit a spur gear. U need to sand 1mm thickness off that pinion gear.


Hope this helps.
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Old 08-06-2004, 09:45 AM   #6806
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Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
I've some questions regarding centax. Readed the post from p195 to latest twice but still can't get a better picture..

If I put a Mugen micro flywheel centax with 0.8 pinon gears, do I need to replace 2speed with Mugen 2speed?? Or it's a drop-in replacement??

Also, the Yokomo NTC3 centax, said be same spec with Mugen. Is the parts for Mugen centax (flyweight, shoe, bell) are also good for Yokomo NTC3 centax??


I know it's not necessary for NTC3 to use centax clutch. But I like to give it a try (nope, I won't try HN or KFactory centax).
The ppl overseas, were all using the Hongnor Centax, believe it or not, that centax is designed for NTC3 (LD3 too of course) and works better then yokomo and Mugen.....but of course, when ppl hear HONGNOR, they are thinking horrible stuff.......but Hongnor does have the tallest gears for the NTC3 which NTC3 doesn't even match.....
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Old 08-06-2004, 11:21 AM   #6807
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Default AAA Battery?

Another question,

I'm consider using AAA battery pack on NTC3 to save weight. In addition, I will use 2 9550 servo on it.

But since AAA battery is much lighter than recommanded battery pack and 9550 is also much lighter than other servo. Will this cause car heavily unbalanced to the left (engine) side because all the weight saving is on right (rx) side?


Thanks.
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Old 08-06-2004, 12:23 PM   #6808
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Default 48T Delrin Spur Gear Inquiry

Just want to buy this once so I'm looking for a heavy duty version. Thanks.
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Old 08-09-2004, 09:41 AM   #6809
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Default Re: AAA Battery?

Quote:
Originally posted by ttso
Another question,

I'm consider using AAA battery pack on NTC3 to save weight. In addition, I will use 2 9550 servo on it.

But since AAA battery is much lighter than recommanded battery pack and 9550 is also much lighter than other servo. Will this cause car heavily unbalanced to the left (engine) side because all the weight saving is on right (rx) side?


Thanks.
my NTC3 using only 1 9550 and a 3310...with regular 2/3A 1100...with body = 1700 gram........that is 50 gram lighter then legal.

if you use another 9550 and 2/3A, your radio side will be WAY lighter then the ENGINE and PIPE side........

Eventually, you will have to ADD weight like ELECT TC.........but I don't think we can tell untill you drive it and let use know...

But I think weight is NOT an issue in NTC3...and should not be too much concentrated on.
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Old 08-09-2004, 05:45 PM   #6810
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hi,
anyone know what's the best differential grease? I used stealth grease but after one day racing, my oneway gears are stripped and my cvd's are bend.
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