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Old 08-01-2004, 08:46 PM   #6781
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Not sure what radio you have but any chance you've got the ABS function turned on?
I have the M8 and the ABS is off.

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The brake pads still have the carbon stuff. I've upgraded the brake disk to a slotted titanium. When I hit the brakes, there are sparks present.
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Old 08-01-2004, 09:03 PM   #6782
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When I hit the brakes, there are sparks present.
Dood, Rev, I don't think that's a good thing. Are your pads perfectly parallel to the disk? Is the servo still going haywire or you just sparking?
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Old 08-01-2004, 11:12 PM   #6783
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sparks = shiny

its fun when i jump the corner dot, and land with a few sparks.... maybe it has to do with my 4 mm ride height in the front hehe.

but your brakes shouldnt be sparking....
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Old 08-02-2004, 12:18 AM   #6784
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Sparks are ever present when there is titanium. My titanium chasis sparks from the rear all the way on the bumpy track. Guess when you hit the brakes it sparks away. But if there is nothing wrong with the car performance i wouldn't worry about it. What i would be more concern is when you have a leaking fuel tank and you start to spark from within imagine the outcome
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:44 AM   #6785
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my car tends to push quite a bit, and is sluggish turning into corners, any suggestions?
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Old 08-02-2004, 02:54 AM   #6786
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Quote:
Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
my car tends to push quite a bit, and is sluggish turning into corners, any suggestions?
My guess is too much droop and/or ride height front and rear.

That or too soft front springs.


What's your set-up right now?
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Old 08-02-2004, 03:01 AM   #6787
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Default Re: Brakes causing throttle servo to glitch

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Originally posted by revzalot
I've noticed when the brakes are applied, the throttle servo goes a little haywire. Anyone have a fix on this?

Check your throttle end-point adjustment on the brake side. It could be that your servo is over exerting(sp?) itself when you hit the brakes.
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:05 AM   #6788
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re: Strange handling problem

I notice that during off power turning, my NTC3 understeers a lot when making tight left turn, but it makes tight right turn perfectly. The degree of understeer is huge. I checked shocks dampling, and make sure they are almost equal in rebouncing after compressing them. When setting ride height, I used a caliper to check the space between the collar and the head of the shock for both the right and left shocks. To have equal equal ride height on the right and left side, I could not adjust that shock collar space to be equal. This happens to both the front and rear shocks. Does it mean my chassis is twisted? Should I go for a 7075 alum chassis? Which brand is good? The left turn understeer is so worse that I need to make rear end slide to make the tight left turn.

My setup is:

chassis: stock blue
front shock oil 60W (stock piston for the front)
front spring gold
rear spring red
rear shock oil 40w (stock piston for the rear)
front tire shore 40
rear tire shore 37
front ride height 5.5
rear ride height 6 (or 6.5)
no front rear anti-roll bar

To get more steering, I adjust the diff such that
front diff loosen 5/8 turn
rear diff loosen 1/8 turn

To avoid the diff gear stripping problem, I replace TA screws with Tamiya tapping screw (M3) on diff housing, 2 speed bulk and shock suspension joints. I use 2 shims on each side of the diff instead of 1 shim as suggested by the manual. I make sure there is no end play in the diff.

Any help?
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Old 08-02-2004, 06:09 AM   #6789
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One thing that I forgot to mention is that the rear shore I use was 37. The rear end of the car slided a bit when accelerating with 37 shore rear. I don't think by using 40 shore rear will correct the uneven right and left turn behavior of the car.
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Old 08-02-2004, 08:08 AM   #6790
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Your chassis has twisted seriously, just change an option ae chassis. Becareful the new chassis, check to see if it was perfectly straight. I think the K factory chassis is good. I'm using one.
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Old 08-02-2004, 07:55 PM   #6791
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Quote:
Originally posted by raceblast
re: Strange handling problem

I notice that during off power turning, my NTC3 understeers a lot when making tight left turn, but it makes tight right turn perfectly. The degree of understeer is huge. I checked shocks dampling, and make sure they are almost equal in rebouncing after compressing them. When setting ride height, I used a caliper to check the space between the collar and the head of the shock for both the right and left shocks. To have equal equal ride height on the right and left side, I could not adjust that shock collar space to be equal. This happens to both the front and rear shocks. Does it mean my chassis is twisted? Should I go for a 7075 alum chassis? Which brand is good? The left turn understeer is so worse that I need to make rear end slide to make the tight left turn.

My setup is:

chassis: stock blue
front shock oil 60W (stock piston for the front)
front spring gold
rear spring red
rear shock oil 40w (stock piston for the rear)
front tire shore 40
rear tire shore 37
front ride height 5.5
rear ride height 6 (or 6.5)
no front rear anti-roll bar

To get more steering, I adjust the diff such that
front diff loosen 5/8 turn
rear diff loosen 1/8 turn

To avoid the diff gear stripping problem, I replace TA screws with Tamiya tapping screw (M3) on diff housing, 2 speed bulk and shock suspension joints. I use 2 shims on each side of the diff instead of 1 shim as suggested by the manual. I make sure there is no end play in the diff.

Any help?
could it be that your steering servo saver is loose. Happened to one of the guys I know. He checked everything except the loose servo saver.
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Old 08-02-2004, 11:23 PM   #6792
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yes, what spawn said and also check the screw that goes into your steering rack. The hole the screw threads into wore out and i lost left hand steering altogether. That would also explain why for a few weeks my car was getting crappy left hand response.

Since im fairly new to the NTC3 scene, do you guys find yourselves replacing tons of plastic parts because the screw holes get stripped in the event of even the smallest crash? It almost seems ridiculous that every time I come in contect with something, i have to replace a part, especially diff housings. Other than that, my car handles the track like a champ
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Old 08-03-2004, 06:03 AM   #6793
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wild gopher:

I fixed the Team Associated screw problem. I replaced the TA screws on the plastic diff housing, 2 speed center plastic bulk, shock suspension joints with Tamiya M3 tapping screw (metric screw). I also put 2 shims on each side of the diff instead of 1 shim as indicated in the manual. Before using Tamiya screws, my car would strip diff gear, drive pinion like crazy everytime the car bounces. Now, the drive chain is very solid.

I checked the flatness of the chassis on a Hudy board. I looked underneath the chassis from all angle. The front and rear chassis touch the board with no light passing thro. Light comes thro' the middle of the chassis. If look at the rear end of the chassis, I see just a bit more light at the right side. Since I don't know how flat the original chassis is (i.e how much light will I see from underneath the chassis), I need to ask whether my chassis is flat then.

About the steering rack, I adjusted the tension of the middle screw according to the manual. That is the end of the screw thread levels with the hole. I still find the rack a bit shaky when I rock the wheels slightly from side to side. Is it normal for the wheel to rocks slightly, or the servo saver needs to be adjusted tighter so that the wheels won't rock a bit?

BTW, do you guys replace/fill the damper oil after every run? I notice that the damper a little bit of oil after every run such that the shock shaft does not fully recoil after compressing.

Alan
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Old 08-03-2004, 06:43 AM   #6794
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Raceblast, I tweaked my NTC3 chassis ever so slightly and I was able to tell by placing it on a flat surface. It had a little rocking action going on.

Also, what are your set up settings at? Are you using setup tools?

The main thing you should be looking at is if your wheels turn the same amount while it's just sitting on the ground. Make sure there's nothing binding. I once had a crack in the CVD that I overlooked. It actually kept the car from making tight turns. Weird but true.

Spawn could be right about the whole servo deal. I've seen it happen too.
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Old 08-03-2004, 07:16 AM   #6795
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kidDynomite:

I laid the NTC3 wheels off on the hudy board, and I am able to rock the chassis from side to side a small bit. I guess the chassis is twisted slightly then. Well, I guess I need to invest in a 7075 chassis. Can anyone recommend a NTC3 7075 chassis?

I always use Hudy set up tools to adjust my settings. My setting is:

chassis: stock blue
front shock oil 60W (stock piston for the front)
front spring gold
rear spring red
rear shock oil 40w (stock piston for the rear)
front tire shore GQ 40
rear tire shore fast tire 37
front ride height 5.5
rear ride height 6 (or 6.5)
no front rear anti-roll bar
front negative camber: 3
rear neg camber: 3
front toe: 1 out
rear toe: 3 in

To get more steering, I adjust the diff such that
front diff loosen 5/8 turn
rear diff loosen 1/8 turn

To avoid the diff gear stripping problem, I replace TA screws with Tamiya tapping screw (M3) on diff housing, 2 speed bulk and shock suspension joints. I use 2 shims on each side of the diff instead of 1 shim as suggested by the manual. I make sure there is no end play in the diff.


Alan
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