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Old 07-22-2004, 09:31 AM   #6721
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I think you do have to buy the gears seperately. There is a set that comes with the team gears for anybody that bought a one speed RTR that wanted to convert over to two speed.
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Old 07-22-2004, 01:54 PM   #6722
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great, i found out on monday that my bulkhead is missing a pin, therefore somehow my brakes locking up and engaging. it sounds like a click sound and stalls. kinda like how a pullstart dies, theres that clink sound.

can i get a good setup for foams in a tight tight course?
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Old 07-23-2004, 12:29 AM   #6723
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Well guys i hit the track with a new set up and i picked up a front blade..the car felt dialed.


but then i couldnt get the car to shift to save my life...it was pissing me off i rebuilt the 2 speed like 6 times trying to line up those stupid balls on the shaft etc and it STILL wasnt shifting..i evenly matched up the two screws at 3 to 3 and a half turns and still no luck..i finally got frustrated and left the track...any help on how you guys build your 2 speeds to make sure they shift....any short cuts can help..thanks fellas.

Jon
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Old 07-23-2004, 01:53 AM   #6724
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do you have the sure shift 2 spd or the old style. i dont know what im talking about but apparently the v2 kits have it and are supposed to shift better?
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Old 07-23-2004, 05:27 AM   #6725
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The old & new 2 speeds change the same. The sureshift is easier to adjust because it has cutouts in the shoes so you can see if everything is where its meant to be. I have never had issues with either type they have always shifted & adjusted evenly. The only thing I can think of that could be causing you problems, is are you adjusting the correct screws. There are 4 screws in the assy that can be adjusted, once the grub screws & balls are in place they shouldnt be touched, you only need to adjust the screws with the spring on them. If they are adjusted correctly it all should work fine. I made this mistake when I first got a car with a clutch type 2 speed.
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Old 07-23-2004, 04:17 PM   #6726
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tearing apart my first ntc3 and i noticed the single chamber pipe is a little bigger than the manifold. am i suppossed to slide the manifold into the pipe? sorry if its a stupid question but ive never seen one like that before and dont know if it would cause glitching.
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Old 07-23-2004, 07:12 PM   #6727
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Quote:
Originally posted by blitz jon
Well guys i hit the track with a new set up and i picked up a front blade..the car felt dialed.


but then i couldnt get the car to shift to save my life...it was pissing me off i rebuilt the 2 speed like 6 times trying to line up those stupid balls on the shaft etc and it STILL wasnt shifting..i evenly matched up the two screws at 3 to 3 and a half turns and still no luck..i finally got frustrated and left the track...any help on how you guys build your 2 speeds to make sure they shift....any short cuts can help..thanks fellas.

Jon
Blitz, I feel for you. (not that way inclined) Hey i had to race 45 fr*&kin minutes with 1 speed on a hell of a long track in the A main race. Didn't know what was wrong until a few days later.

Check the nut on the silver ball in your two speed shoe. If it keeps coming out (meaning everytime you screw it in it unscrews itself) after a run, that means AE packed the wrong nut into the 2 speed. I busted my brand new 2 speed housing becoz of that. Can't even get a refund. If anyone from AE is reading this, can I have a refund on the 2 speed?

You can ditch that 2 speed coz the hole is now screwed. Won't work even if you put a bigger screw in. The correct screw would be the one where you used in the dual chamber pipe. You will note that the dual chamber screw has got finer thread lines than the ones they supplied for the 2 speed.

So ditch that 2 speed shoe but save the springs, can be re-used.
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Old 07-23-2004, 07:15 PM   #6728
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OK here is what I saw at the track last weekend regarding the two speed.

First a helped a guy with his FT that was not shifting. I adjusted the grub screws and balls and then did a test run with it in my hand trying to feel the car shift. It shifted the first time but would not shift again after that. When I looked at the grub screws they had backed out of the hole when the car was run up to speed and had jammed the two speed.

So make sure the grub screws are not stripped out in the clutch shoes. His were so i gave him a new set of shoes that are old style, he then came back a few minutes later becasue the balls that are in the new style are bigger diameter than the old style so they would not fit down the holes in the old style shoes.

To make a long story short the new style has some differences to it and the grub screws can strip out in the hole and cause you problems.

When you get it close you should be able to rev the car up slowly and feel it shift ( it will jerk in your hand a little) you do not have to rev the hell out of your motor it should shift at a pretty low to medium rpm.

Cody
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Old 07-23-2004, 07:15 PM   #6729
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Quote:
Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
great, i found out on monday that my bulkhead is missing a pin, therefore somehow my brakes locking up and engaging. it sounds like a click sound and stalls. kinda like how a pullstart dies, theres that clink sound.

can i get a good setup for foams in a tight tight course?
35 front and 37 rear for qualifying, trued to 61mm. Soft front springs, front shock mounting more inclined (inner most hole on the mounting) Rear camber link lowest hole. Front tow out 1 degree. Diff setting 1/2 front and rear Try this, slippery as a fish.
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Old 07-23-2004, 07:18 PM   #6730
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Quote:
Originally posted by FFR3582
OK here is what I saw at the track last weekend regarding the two speed.

First a helped a guy with his FT that was not shifting. I adjusted the grub screws and balls and then did a test run with it in my hand trying to feel the car shift. It shifted the first time but would not shift again after that. When I looked at the grub screws they had backed out of the hole when the car was run up to speed and had jammed the two speed.

So make sure the grub screws are not stripped out in the clutch shoes. His were so i gave him a new set of shoes that are old style, he then came back a few minutes later becasue the balls that are in the new style are bigger diameter than the old style so they would not fit down the holes in the old style shoes.

To make a long story short the new style has some differences to it and the grub screws can strip out in the hole and cause you problems.

When you get it close you should be able to rev the car up slowly and feel it shift ( it will jerk in your hand a little) you do not have to rev the hell out of your motor it should shift at a pretty low to medium rpm.

Cody
Yep the ball is bigger in the new shoe but the grub screw is the one that causes the 2 speed not to shift. Check with AE on the size of the grub screw, like i said earlier, it should be the one where they packed in the wrong grub screw.
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Old 07-23-2004, 07:21 PM   #6731
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Quote:
Originally posted by R3VoLuTiOn
great, i found out on monday that my bulkhead is missing a pin, therefore somehow my brakes locking up and engaging. it sounds like a click sound and stalls. kinda like how a pullstart dies, theres that clink sound.

can i get a good setup for foams in a tight tight course?
Every once in a while you will need to use a long nose to push those pins back into place. There are 4 pins right? The clink sound is caused by the pin hitting agains the ball bearing holder when you turn your wheels. the sound is prominent when you turn it real slow. You will also note that there are scratch marks on the bearing holder (circular scratch marks)
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Old 07-23-2004, 09:59 PM   #6732
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Quote:
Originally posted by 919er
tearing apart my first ntc3 and i noticed the single chamber pipe is a little bigger than the manifold. am i suppossed to slide the manifold into the pipe? sorry if its a stupid question but ive never seen one like that before and dont know if it would cause glitching.
It is normal & wont cause glitching.
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Old 07-23-2004, 10:48 PM   #6733
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question

what is better to put on my ntc a dual chamber or side exhaust manifold? which is better?
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Old 07-23-2004, 10:52 PM   #6734
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I want to run a centax clutch on my TC3 and am debating among the different clutches available. yokomo,GPM, K-factory, Mugen,??

I think I am going to go with the MTX-3 Pro-spec centax unless some one can tell me why one of the others that is available is better.

I like the Mugen clutch because it is a proven design and parts/bearings/gears/etc.. will be very easy to get at the track.

Are there any issues with mounting it in a TC3 that I should know about or any disadvantages to this centax over the other brands?


Thanks
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Old 07-23-2004, 11:04 PM   #6735
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Quote:
Originally posted by rice
question

what is better to put on my ntc a dual chamber or side exhaust manifold? which is better?
The AE dual chamber will only work with rear exhuast engines. The side exhaust manifold will work with uhh side exhaust engines. I think u could run a normal dual chamber pipe with the side exhaust manifold. Not too sure dough
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