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Old 07-16-2004, 08:42 PM   #6691
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Originally posted by blitz jon
hey guys this may be a little OT and im sorry if it is but im thinking about picking up a mugen mtx3 and getting rid of my rtr ntc3.Dont get me wrong i love my ntc3 but i think it would be more expensive to upgrade from all my rtr stuff(i already have a one way and 2 speed). Basically its the mugen plus top engine and pipe for 175 well taken care of. So basically im looking for you guys to talk me into keeping my tc3..lol..sorry if it sounds confusing.

Jon
Having just come from a belt drive car to the NTC3, I would keep the NTC3. And the reason I suggest this is due to one large factor - Motor Performance.

It seems as though you need to have the most brutish HP engine you can find/afford to run with the fast MTX3's. I have seen this time and again at my local track where you have 3 guys that have the best motors money can buy and are always ahead of the game. At the last meeting we had, I outqualified 2 of these guys with my NTC3 and a pull start 1hp motor. And compared to the other cars it looked like a rocket coming out of corners for 1 reason. The Factory Team gearing. The 6 tooth split would be hard for a lot of belt cars to cope with without using the biggest HP motor.

If you were going to keep the RTR, I would suggest that you get yourself a set of the factory team gears (always available on ebay cheap) and then decide if you're not fast enough.

The NTC3 is also very easy to get down to the minimum weight for touring cars (1725grams dry with a transponder), in fact, since ditching the pull start and going bump start I have had to add 42 grams to get it up to minimum weight.

Anyhow, drive what you want to drive, just don't complain if you get smoked by a lesser engine in an NTC3
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Old 07-16-2004, 08:58 PM   #6692
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hey Zoom!, I too had an MTX3 and NTC3, well I can say that both cars are great but I sold my MTX3 coz I couldnt find the time to run and maintain 2 cars. Also 2 different driving style. Sold the MTX3 coz I didnt buy many parts and the 2nd hand price is good!. Kept my NTC3 coz I have loads of spare and could put in a pull start 1hp engine in it. Its fast even with the 1hp engine but wont be able to keep up with the 5 port turbo engines. What I like about the NTC3 is that its easy to maintain and drive. Also spare parts are aplenty but not as cheap as MTX3. I just wished we had a pull start racing class here!.

I switch between my pull start engine and 5 port turbo every couple of weeks just to give the engine some workout.

Also the V2 has made the car so much easier to drive that even a newbie can master with the stock setup. Problem is that I tend to overshoot driving a shaft, my throttle finger is too darn heavy.
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Old 07-16-2004, 08:59 PM   #6693
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I agree with the shaft providing a good bite to the ground. The TC3 ( also shaft driven ) exhibited awesome traction and speed in the European Championships. The best part was that it was raining hard and the car still performed well in the rain. It won 2 out of 3 final heats. You can't go wrong with shaft driven power. Change the gearing and try to find ways to lower the cg and tweak the suspension. You'll be good to go.
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Old 07-17-2004, 01:19 AM   #6694
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I have an MTX-3 and 2 NTC3's as well. I drove my new NTC3 factory team kit last night and decided I like the NTC3 better. With the same motor as i had in the mugen, its way faster in this. plus replacement parts are cheap and plentiful. A guy at my local track dominates with a NTC3 powered by a MR12, and thats racing against high dollar serpents and mugens with expensive novamega and novarossis. Very smooth drivetrain that doesnt need all the motor to push it.
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Old 07-17-2004, 04:54 AM   #6695
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wow im up in the air on what to do now...gopher you have two tc3's??? is one a back up or you getting rid of one?????i saw you out there on thursday...maybe when i see you again you can help me set up my car....
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Old 07-17-2004, 07:37 AM   #6696
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yeah, one is a backup/parts car. It saved my ass last sunday at the race, i wouldve never made the main if i didnt have a spare car
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Old 07-17-2004, 04:56 PM   #6697
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This question is for previous V.1 owners who converted/switched to the V.2.

Were there any differences in terms of handling/traction?


Before I took a sabattical from RC racing late last year, I noticed that a lot of NTC3 racers(including myself) at my local track had difficulty in getting the rear end to stick(especially on hot track temps) no matter what they tried and alot of them switched to MTX3's, FW05's, etc. with better results.

At first I attributed the traction problem to the shaft drive and it's inherent drivetrain responsiveness which is not so good for a hot slippery track. Belt drives have a little "buffer" as the belt stretches and reduces the tendency to break traction and I thought this may be why belt cars did better at our track.

Did the new rear end disprove my thoughts?


I may be getting back into the racing scene soon and after hearing of all the horsepower($$$$) being thrown around at my local track, I may need to resort to a new NTC3 V.2 and a lower cost engine just to keep up instead of getting a high dollar/high power engine for one of my MTX3's. The NTC3's always seemed fast regardless of what rear exhaust engine was in it.
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Old 07-17-2004, 08:29 PM   #6698
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Quote:
Originally posted by FREAKAH
This question is for previous V.1 owners who converted/switched to the V.2.

Were there any differences in terms of handling/traction?


Before I took a sabattical from RC racing late last year, I noticed that a lot of NTC3 racers(including myself) at my local track had difficulty in getting the rear end to stick(especially on hot track temps) no matter what they tried and alot of them switched to MTX3's, FW05's, etc. with better results.

At first I attributed the traction problem to the shaft drive and it's inherent drivetrain responsiveness which is not so good for a hot slippery track. Belt drives have a little "buffer" as the belt stretches and reduces the tendency to break traction and I thought this may be why belt cars did better at our track.

Did the new rear end disprove my thoughts?


I may be getting back into the racing scene soon and after hearing of all the horsepower($$$$) being thrown around at my local track, I may need to resort to a new NTC3 V.2 and a lower cost engine just to keep up instead of getting a high dollar/high power engine for one of my MTX3's. The NTC3's always seemed fast regardless of what rear exhaust engine was in it.
If you cannot get rear traction on your V1 setup, then you MUST have to try the V2............V2 does the complete opposite.......understeering.

But correcting or increasing steering is much easier then increasing rear traction, IMHO..........
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Old 07-17-2004, 09:28 PM   #6699
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OK guys I have been running the NTC3 since day 1. I had no tire coning problems until I switched to the V2 rear.
The same time I switched to the V2 I changed to the newer BMI Limited addition chassis. Now I have the left rear tire coning bigtime, no matter how much or less chamber I use. The car tweaks good and handles good, but I can't get but 2 maybe 3, 5 min heats out of the left rear. Anyone else seeing this? Any ideas anyone? I'm all out of ideas. BB
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Old 07-17-2004, 09:45 PM   #6700
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
OK guys I have been running the NTC3 since day 1. I had no tire coning problems until I switched to the V2 rear.
The same time I switched to the V2 I changed to the newer BMI Limited addition chassis. Now I have the left rear tire coning bigtime, no matter how much or less chamber I use. The car tweaks good and handles good, but I can't get but 2 maybe 3, 5 min heats out of the left rear. Anyone else seeing this? Any ideas anyone? I'm all out of ideas. BB
To cause tire coning, I think 99% has to do with camber....I understand you did check your camber before you drop the car on the track, but if you are saying your left rear is the one giving you problem, there are 2 things I can think of....(1) your camber need more negative then what you think....I did one time -3.5 degree before (2) your track has a lot of high traction RIGHT turns...add more camber onto your LEFT rear for the right hand turns....(3) Check your axle and shaft...it might be bent, just a little can cause the coning....

Just some of my idea....
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Old 07-17-2004, 10:02 PM   #6701
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Quote:
Originally posted by bbntc3
OK guys I have been running the NTC3 since day 1. I had no tire coning problems until I switched to the V2 rear.
The same time I switched to the V2 I changed to the newer BMI Limited addition chassis. Now I have the left rear tire coning bigtime, no matter how much or less chamber I use. The car tweaks good and handles good, but I can't get but 2 maybe 3, 5 min heats out of the left rear. Anyone else seeing this? Any ideas anyone? I'm all out of ideas. BB
Is there any unusual play in the rear hub where the bearings sit or bearings/axle themselves?

Any play in the camber rod ends?

Are the pillow balls screwed in the same amount as the right side?

Pillow balls binding?
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Old 07-17-2004, 10:16 PM   #6702
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Theres nothing bent on the car or no slop in the wheel brg to housing. The car when fully compressed to the ground actually does have about .5 degree less neg camber than the right We did change track design and it is a high bite with alot of good right hand turns.
I have went as far as 4 degrees neg, and the coning did not go away but got better but... traction seemed to give up some. I never tried anymore than 4 degrees, because with the V1, 1.5 to around 2 degrees neg and the car had 0 coning on all fours. I think 4 degrees is way to much. I'm not the only NTC3 at the track, but... I am the only car with the V2 rear, the V1 cars don't show this kind of coning. Maybe I'm missing something.

People here said the V2 was kinda brittle.. I have'nt broke not one part since change over, for what ever that's worth!

I'm no expert with suspension, but the V2 does seem to help handling, I can now run the blade bar front and rear and keep the car flat with the track.
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Old 07-17-2004, 10:36 PM   #6703
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Ok guys I've finally got a question that I can't find an answer to in previous posts. I'm getting ready to paint up a Frewer Lola body for the ROAR Outlaw Nats and it seems the front shock tower is a bit in the way. I've searced around online and have found some cars with the same body that don't have any cutouts for the tower and others with cutouts for the tower. My question is what had to be done mount the body without cutting out the tower or if you did make cutouts was there any down side to that. I was also wondering if anyone has had any luck heating the body up with heat gun and putting a bulge in the body to gain some tower clearance. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 07-17-2004, 11:43 PM   #6704
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Its been awhile since I posted here, but I just want to make a statement to everybody that has a v1 car and complains about the durability.
I bought my NTC3 in October of 2001. So it's pretty much one of the original cars out there. I ran a 2 hour endurance race a couple weeks ago. Posted 477 laps. I tore the car down since and the only thing I could find worn out was the rear shock tower. The screws loosened up to the point of where the shock tower was wobbling around. Stupid me didn't put any loctite on the screw threads. I didn't even use any of the shock tower braces that have been floating around from the different companies, like the ones from ebay and the ones I keep hearing about from BMI. The rest of the car was fine.
Now I can hear some of the people out there saying that this isn't possible. And I'll be the first person to say that I wasn't driving my hardest and crashed quite a few times. But the thing that kept that car together was my taking the time beforehand and making sure every nut and bolt was sealed up tight. And making sure that the setup was right on.
I have got to give props to everybody that has posted in this thread that has given many tips and tricks to keep their cars together. And one last thing, about getting the delrin diff gears. I still have the original diff gears and they have held up great. Don't spend your hard earned green on stuff that you don't need. Run it till it's broken and then maybe upgrade. That goes for everything that's on the car.
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Old 07-18-2004, 07:29 AM   #6705
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How about the chassis. I've replace 3 pcs, one original blue and 2 hard natural color chassis. It bend way too easy. The last one which I change recently was tweak seriously. But during the life of that chassis, about three months, I have only replace one pc lower arm, that's all.

I also notice the new chassis is not completely flat. When you push down the rear end, the front end will rise a little. I've ask our dealer to check other new chassis and he also founf the same thing.

Anything to do with the front RPM bumber? it will not break but can bend upward, this may not able to provide 100% protection to the chassis.

We also have some problem with the rear diff's ring gear and pinion. The teeth distroy easily, any idea?
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