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Old 07-10-2004, 01:31 AM   #6631
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Yes I have the Factory Team as well, the centre shaft seems the same as the other blue ones.
well agreed driving style is very important. so the new kit number is #2033 right. i saw the bmi chasis too. damn nice.sumthing very special. but the servo is on vertical side. this doesnt reali lower the c.g. tat is my opinion.not sure it does affect anyhting compare to the kit original chassis.
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Old 07-10-2004, 01:34 AM   #6632
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The servo on the BMI chassis doesnt lower the CG, but overall everything else is lower. The steer servo has advantages as I stated earlier.
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Old 07-10-2004, 01:42 AM   #6633
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The servo on the BMI chassis doesnt lower the CG, but overall everything else is lower. The steer servo has advantages as I stated earlier.
didnt read the earlier one u wrote. well seems like the bmi chassis is harden and it make the car more precise. servo wise base on wat u wrote i assume tat it doesnt reduce the steering travel at all, right ? i like the bmi too jus tat this vertical servo is a
thing tat make someone ponder why its place in such a way ?
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Old 07-10-2004, 01:49 AM   #6634
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The steering travel is the same. Jason Briemer (BMI King Pin) said that the upright servo was to stop binding in the steering linkage when running beefier ball cups. I like it because you can adjust the rack for zero slop & run a standard servo saver.
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Old 07-10-2004, 01:52 AM   #6635
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The steering travel is the same. Jason Briemer (BMI King Pin) said that the upright servo was to stop binding in the steering linkage when running beefier ball cups. I like it because you can adjust the rack for zero slop & run a standard servo saver.
sound deep. well in this case got to try it out.do u run centax clutch by k-factory or the stock type ?
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Old 07-10-2004, 02:05 AM   #6636
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I have a problem maybe you NTC3 gurus can answer. My car seems to understeer really badly, especially on power steering. The throw seems fine so i have ruled that out, so im guessing its suspension related. Im running the Barry Baker setup from the '03 McCoy race since i still have V1 rear. The only difference is that I have no rear sway bar and the front is blade type
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Old 07-10-2004, 03:40 AM   #6637
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With having no rear sway bar, you have a lot of weight transfer in the rear and not so much in the front.

Try running with the blade at '--' full flat position. Otherwise you could make the rear springs firmer, soften the front springs or put a sway bar on the back. You could also try running 1 mm less ride height in the front to increase the weight balance onto the front wheels.

Cheers,

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Old 07-10-2004, 09:55 AM   #6638
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Quote:
Originally posted by paig
sound deep. well in this case got to try it out.do u run centax clutch by k-factory or the stock type ?
I run the 3 shoe with copper springs. I have a centax but it is so small the bearings overheat.
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Old 07-10-2004, 02:43 PM   #6639
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ok, i already run the blade sway bar at ---, so that cant be changed. I run at a ride height of 4 mm, but thats without trued tires (next purchase). I run purple springs in the front and red in the rear, using 70 wt. Im gonna get a sway bar today and try that out. I wonder if i could also tighten my servo saver a bit to stiffen it up a bit and allow a bit more throw.
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Old 07-10-2004, 08:06 PM   #6640
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Quote:
Originally posted by wild gopher
ok, i already run the blade sway bar at ---, so that cant be changed. I run at a ride height of 4 mm, but thats without trued tires (next purchase). I run purple springs in the front and red in the rear, using 70 wt. Im gonna get a sway bar today and try that out. I wonder if i could also tighten my servo saver a bit to stiffen it up a bit and allow a bit more throw.
Purple springs in the front is way too stiff! To increase steering, you'll need softer springs up front. Try red front copper rear, or copper front red rear, and change the 70wt shock oil to 40wt or 50 wt. I tried using 60wt shock oil b4, just couldn't drive it right, meddle with my diff settings and springs, just didn't thought it was the damping, finally changed back to 40wt, and the handling comes back. Never try never know.

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Old 07-11-2004, 04:12 AM   #6641
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With my setup, I run #3 shock pistons with 50wt oil all round. Seems to be ok for my track. I use purple springs up front with shock top mount on the outermost hole. I use red springs on the rear with the top shock mount on the middle hole. I do prefer a bit more understeer though as this suits the way I drive. I also use a front one way.

If I needed more steering I could set the top shock mount at the front to the middle or inner hole or move the rear shock mounting to the inner hole.

Or as has been suggested, move to using a softer front spring.
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Old 07-11-2004, 04:25 PM   #6642
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im slowly but steadily upgrading my rtr tc3 and the front blade is kind of expensive ...would i loose much handling if i went with the sway bar up front like the ones that come in the rear??????
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Old 07-11-2004, 04:36 PM   #6643
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It will still help, but you wont have the adjustability.
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Old 07-11-2004, 05:45 PM   #6644
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thanks ill try it...also can anyone post up the foam tire set up thats in the manual????? i have a rtr manual and it isnt in there plus the associated website is acting dumb and wont let me upload it....

thanks for the help fellas!

Jon
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Old 07-11-2004, 06:16 PM   #6645
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http://www.teamassociated.com/racerh...d.htm#NitroTC3

Its working OK now
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