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Old 06-13-2004, 09:34 PM   #6481
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Never have stripped a diff I have been running 2 cars at 2 tracks for 2 years and haven't had a problem. Both are kits with no hop ups.

Last edited by Number 11; 06-14-2004 at 08:27 AM.
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Old 06-14-2004, 06:13 AM   #6482
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Another option for the wheel nuts comming off, is use a bit of Locktite.
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Old 06-14-2004, 07:28 AM   #6483
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Raycer-- you didn't strip your diff gear. Your diff was slipping and got everything to hot and melted your parts. Build the Diff according to the manual and don't run it to loose or it will slip and over heat.
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Old 06-14-2004, 08:12 AM   #6484
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Thanks guys for information.
FFR3582, that's what I was thinking about. The gear did strip but I think it was the over heat cause the strip. But what cause the over heat? I did build exactly what the manual said. My car did work for about 2/3 gallon of nitro but my question is how offen does we need to check the diff... every single race ? Also, there is a friction disc inside the diff, they called ADT friction disc...does anyone know what this friction disc for... isn't it to make the diff slippy like the slipper clutch in the RC10, cause it seems like it is the same material with the RC10 slippy clutch, at least the colors are the same...
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Old 06-14-2004, 11:12 AM   #6485
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that disk is in there to actually limit the diffing action between the two halves ... so leave it in there and dont mess with it ... I picked up a used diff that didnt have it in it and it made the car totally undrivable ... and it started to over heat and melt things due to the ball diff diffing so much ... and if your not checking your diffs at least once per race day or practice day then your not checking them enough ... I try to give them a once over at least every other heat ... and before I go to the track I take them out and check them on a jig I made ... sorta like the other commercially available diff jigs .. just lots cheaper cause I made it rather than forking over the dough ..

have fun racing

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Old 06-14-2004, 12:28 PM   #6486
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i think the tc3 is a very good can, the only things i don't like is that it run out of gear in the big track, and part break too fast, but the tc3 got very good handing, and it is forgiving in the set up, my friend build the holg car backward and it still drive good, it is one of the best 200mm out there to buy
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Old 06-14-2004, 01:05 PM   #6487
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Thanks roddude65. What is a diff jig? Do you have pic? Also, I have the new FT NTC3, in the manual it didn't say we need diff lube on the friction disc. But in the old manual it did say we need to put diff lube between the friction disc & the diff gear. What do you think about the lube? Do we need it or not. One more question on checking the diff." why some ppl don't need to check the diff ever and are still running no problem". My throught is these people might not use those high power engine like NovaRoss. I think the RTR NTC3 never need to check the diff. casue my friend has one and never has problem with the diff.
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Old 06-14-2004, 02:37 PM   #6488
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Default Bulletproofing the NTC3

Here's what I've done so far to bulletproof the ntc3:

o Upgraded to v2 rear
o Titanium screw set
o Alloy diff cases front and rear
o Alloy knuckles

I'm thinking about purchasing titanium turnbuckles and sericeable bearings. Any other suggestions?
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Old 06-14-2004, 02:44 PM   #6489
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for bearing check out acerracing.com They have kits for the NTC3 or you can order individual bearings.
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Old 06-14-2004, 03:16 PM   #6490
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If the diffs are built right and lubed right, there's no need to check the diffs after each race or heat race. I would think that's over kill. Unless it's a 1 hr. main or something. I usually relube and check mine after about 2 hrs. of run time.
Most of the time, if the center is melted out of the diff ring gear, you have the diff setting to loose. Been there done that! Don't take them anymore than 1/8 to 5/8 of a turn loose.
With the older material gears and any more than a 4 tooth split in gearing and Richie HP, my car would rip the teeth right off the pinion and ring gear.
With the newer material gears, (white) I have no problem at all! And that's all we use is high HP modified engines,( Richie, Smeltz and Topgun). I changed to the new gears when they were released and have only changed them once, the first set of new gears lasted 3 gallons of fuel.

Last edited by bbntc3; 06-14-2004 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 06-14-2004, 08:49 PM   #6491
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Has anyone had a problem with their NTC3 not shifting?I had a problem yesterday so I rebuilt the 2 speed,still no shift.I turned the screws out almost 5 turns and it just wont shift.Can someone please give me some advice?
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Old 06-14-2004, 08:52 PM   #6492
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sounds like it is already in second gear if its 5 turns out, tighten them down and 2 turns out and work slowly out till you get it to shift.
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Old 06-14-2004, 09:05 PM   #6493
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Ok Thanks!!I havent tried that.Everyone kept telling me to back them out.
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:10 AM   #6494
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Hi Jason,

The set up recommanded by the factory for foam tire may be is for biginner or someother surface. The spring was too hard. I think your track is similar to us, middium grip and not very smooth. I found silver front and red rear, 40 oil, front 1 degree toe out, rear two degree toe in, 12 degree caster angle, 3/4 turn out front diff, 1/8 turn out rear diff give good steering. Also make sure you have at least 4mm ride height from and rear in all time.

I've found with this setting has overcome my understeer problem. With 2 degree rear toe, I have to a little bit carefull on throttle when exit conner.

BTW, I know you love heli and was the team manager for Hong Kong Team for the FAI F3C event, why grounded now? But I'm great you are here.
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Old 06-15-2004, 08:47 AM   #6495
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Originally posted by fordman500
Ok Thanks!!I havent tried that.Everyone kept telling me to back them out.
3 things to do....

(1) Replace the internal springs and screws, I think they are like $8....dirt cheap.

(2) CUT your exisitng clutch and convert it to "SURE SHIFT" style...all you need is a sharp x-acto and 15 minutes of your time..if you have FT Sure Shift in your 2 speed, ignore this.

(3) Lift the car up in the air and run the car slowly (again, very slow acceleration), from 1/4 throttle to full throttle.........at 1 point, you should FEEL the car "JURK", that is when the 2-speed is kicking...........
The trick of telling that is slow acceleration, you cannot FEEL or HEAR or TELL if you gun the car from 0-60...slowly acceleration and you will FEEL the car swing / shift (jurk) 1 time, thats the time when the 2-speed is kicking...

Of course, if you still cannot tell the car is shifted...there might be some other factors too...........all I know is I helped (3) NTC3 2 weeks ago at the track by using this methrod and they all ended up with their 2nd speed shifted at 1 point...............how early and late you want to be shifted....you are the only one can do that on the track.
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