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Old 06-06-2004, 11:27 PM   #6421
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hi i will be gettinga ntc3 for parking lot racing. can someone give a starting setup for a medium parking lot ? i would like to know about the springs, shock oil etc.. thanks !
Jeff
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Old 06-06-2004, 11:36 PM   #6422
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Medium traction parking lot, 1 word. soft
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Old 06-07-2004, 12:35 AM   #6423
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tag
hi i will be gettinga ntc3 for parking lot racing. can someone give a starting setup for a medium parking lot ? i would like to know about the springs, shock oil etc.. thanks !
Jeff
shock-oil 25wt (front/rear)
spring-silver rear / red front
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Old 06-07-2004, 12:40 AM   #6424
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as thefuzzclubsaid, 25wt ft and rear,

I use Red fronts, and gold springs in the rear

I had great luck in the traction department with the ride height as low as possible, and running 40shore foams in the rear, and R-40 stock foams in the (they are REAL soft). The traction on most parking lots isnt very high, and this tire combo worked wonders for me. The 40shores in the rear meant that I could still whip the rear around, and the soft foams in the front meant that I could Punch the throttle out of the corners, and the soft foams would hook up and pull me rather than the back taking over.


Hope the light was shed.
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Old 06-07-2004, 12:43 AM   #6425
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Originally posted by dannybcaitlyn
Does anyone know the stock #'s for the Team factory NTC3 spur gears. Arent they suppose to be slightly different pitch for better acceleration and top speed?
You must be reading Xtreme RC. Don't believe everything you read in the mag, I don't think the pitch has changed on the gears. What I can tell you is that the K Factory centax clutch has module gears. The 27 tooth and the 26 tooth are the same diameter.
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Old 06-07-2004, 05:01 AM   #6426
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anybody else had a problem getting rear traction?after two week of this im getting frustrated!!!!first yes all the settings are even and correct,stock diff settings,with version 2 suspension.copper and gold springs with 40wt oil and #3 pistons.i race on a somewhat loose parking lot track.started with 30rear and 35 front this week no rear traction at all,it was like driving on ice.tried every adjustment i could think of and nothing made any real difference.switched to 45 front and 40 rear tires(had to try something)and the rear was so stuck it wouldnt steer(bad push)so i figured id go to 40 all the way around for the mainand the car was right back to absolutely no rear traction again.when i say no rear traction i mean it the car just pivots around the front,if im not really careful with the throttle i can do donuts at will!looks cool but not very effective for racing!guys im stumped!im usually in the a main every week(even made the a main last week with this garbage)but this is starting to try my patience.
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Old 06-07-2004, 05:57 AM   #6427
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Your suspension sounds like it is binding. If you have no rear traction running 35s you have some issues. It also could be the front diff/oneway gear or pinion is stripped.
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Old 06-07-2004, 02:50 PM   #6428
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thats why im so aggravated at this point,no binding,ive checked twice,shocks are all the same length,two chassis now(just got my bmi from jason)rebuilt both diffs with the stock settings,no stripped gears,ive been racing for a while now and usually do very well but this is frustrating.funny part is nothing really makes a big difference except when i put on the 45 front and 40 shore rear then it pushed so bad it you almost had to stop to turn.ive tried different droop settings usually somewhere 1-2mm front and rear.its not only one direction either like something is wrong with the car i even scaled it before going and all the weights looked good nothing unusuall.i even geared up this weekend figuring maybe i was geared so low it could never get traction on power but that didnt help either. shocks are all new and work smooth checked them also this weekend.
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Old 06-07-2004, 04:05 PM   #6429
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You might want to try 3mm of lift in the front and 4-5 in the rear. Also a thicker rear swaybar will hook up the rear better. Most people think it makes the car looser but I have found the opposite.

Paul
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Old 06-07-2004, 04:35 PM   #6430
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Are you definatly getting drive to all 4 wheels. Mine is still drivable with a crap setup as long as it gets power down. Check the pin that sits behind the pinion on the front imput cup.
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Old 06-07-2004, 05:38 PM   #6431
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Quote:
Originally posted by morpwr
thats why im so aggravated at this point,no binding,ive checked twice,shocks are all the same length,two chassis now(just got my bmi from jason)rebuilt both diffs with the stock settings,no stripped gears,ive been racing for a while now and usually do very well but this is frustrating.funny part is nothing really makes a big difference except when i put on the 45 front and 40 shore rear then it pushed so bad it you almost had to stop to turn.ive tried different droop settings usually somewhere 1-2mm front and rear.its not only one direction either like something is wrong with the car i even scaled it before going and all the weights looked good nothing unusuall.i even geared up this weekend figuring maybe i was geared so low it could never get traction on power but that didnt help either. shocks are all new and work smooth checked them also this weekend.
I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM. WHAT I DID IS I USED BARRY BAKERS HONG KONG QUAL. AND MAIN DAY SETUP AND I COULDN'T BELEIVE HOW WELL THE CAR HANDLED. IT JUST NEEDS A LITTLE MORE STEERING. OH I USED 37 SHORE FOAMS FRONT AND REAR AND NO WEIGHTS. THE CAR CARRIES MEGA SPEED THRU THE SWEEPERS. THE TRACK I RACE AT IS A MED SIZE AND IS PREPPED W/SUGAR WATER (MED TRACTION). TRY IT U MIGHT HAVE SOME LUCK
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Old 06-07-2004, 06:51 PM   #6432
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MORPWR- Try 0 droop front and rear, #3 shock pistons frt and rear, 50wt oil front and rear. Tighten the front diff all the way tight, back it off about 1/8th to 1/4 turn, rear diff, tighten it up back it off 1/2 to 5/8 turn. If you run front blade bar, make sure its free and not bound up in the middle, if you get the blade pushed together in the middle it will rub and bind up and make the car do crazy stuff. Set the sway at 45 degrees or straight up. Remove the rear sway bar, if you have one. About 2 degrees camber front and rear, and about 2 to 3 degrees rear toe.
When I switched to V-2 rear suspension, all I had to do was lay the rear shocks all the way down, and use the longest longest postion on the rear camber links, add one plastic AE shock piston stop plastic washer under the chamber link ball joint on the rear hub, ( too limit chamber gain), front shocks middle hole on towers and front and rear in the outer hole in the arms.( or upper hole in V2 arms),5mm ride height front and rear, 4 droop in front and 5 droop in rear. 40 shore foams front and rear. If it scales right with scales on each wheel, then ok, but I doubt it will!. Use a tweak station, or the old electric guys method.( lift the car in th middle front and rear and see that the wheels lift off the ground evenly). Remember though, you can't control spring rebound correctly, if you have the shocks all jacked up unevenly.
This is basically what I use with the BMI Gen 2 chassis.
Hope this helps!!!!! BB
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Old 06-07-2004, 07:14 PM   #6433
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Default re;loose

guys i appreciate all the help and setups,but ive pretty much tried all this already with no positive results.diffs will definitely not work on this track (very tight with a short straightaway-7.40 first gear!)turned out 5/8,i tried it and smoked both diffs in two heats.not good!i am missing something im sure,ive check and both diffs do turn the driveshaft but the pinion drive pin is a good idea.could possibly turn the shaft by hand and slip under power.the strange part i really dont get is going from 30shore rear and 35shore front to 40 rear and 45 front tightened the car up so much it wouldnt turn at all,that makes no sense at all unless the track surface was just to hot for that soft of a tire.but i would think if that was the case the traction would have been good at the start and gone away as the race went on.oh yeah ive tried the sway bars on ,off,flat ,45degree,straight up,no difference like everything else.it almost feels to me like im unloading one rear tire the more ithink about it but common wisdom would be to loosen the diff to get the car to turn.im getting tired of running races at half throttle or less!
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Old 06-07-2004, 07:38 PM   #6434
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If you can't hook the car up with 30 and 35 shore tires, you are diffently missing something! I stripped a bunch of diffs from the early material, also melted a few! then switched to the newer gears, white colored and have not melted or stripped a gear since. Since you melted both diffs in 2 heats, you have answered your own question! You doing something wrong in that area.
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Old 06-07-2004, 08:16 PM   #6435
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Yea, I've been reading extreme and a few other mags.
In the june 2004 issue of rc driver They have an article on " Nitro Speed Secrets Revealed". Which says that Serpent, Ofna, and Mugen are now using .8 module gears. Which are a finer tooth size compared to the larger 32 pitch gears. which enables more teeth on the gear of the same diameter. I just figured maybe associated was following the trend.
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